1989 F350 cross-country prep

[Oelmensch]

The family is pulling up the tent-stakes and moving cross country shortly after the house sells (Early Feb assuming I don't tell my buyer to take a hike or something less forum-appropriate). Looking for advice on anything I'm leaving out from my plans below. I'd picked up the truck last year and have been putting some miles on it during several dump runs and some regular driving along with fixing a few things. As best I can tell it sat 1-2 years before I bought it, then shortly after purchase a failed wheel bearing ate the rear axle which I replaced with a unit from IDIoit that typ4 hauled back up for me (Huge thanks to you both!)

For easy reference, the truck is a 2wd 7.3 IDI with an 088 ATS system and an e4od transmission, 4.10 open rear end. Engine compression tested acceptably well some time ago, no history on the transmission. Plan is to fill the bed/canopy and a 12'x6' dual axle U-haul cargo trailer. I think the gross combined weight will be around 13-14klbs; Truck and I together are 7k lbs, U-Haul trailer and load is ~4400lbs, and another 2k lbs in the truck in more possessions in the bed and the rest of the family.

Already done:

• Replaced front wheel bearings and seals
• Replaced FIPL (1.20V/4.07V, shifts significantly better)
• Added Mechanical temp, oil pressure, boost and (electric) voltmeter
• Added Towmax trans temp gauge (DOA, gotta love SPC inspection plans and the units they miss...)
• Replaced all glowplugs (motorcraft), changed oil & filter, fuel filter, air filter, changed coolant and added DCA4 additive, changed trans fluid in the pan only and new filter
• Replaced old/beat-up tube-fin trans cooler with seized fan with 11x11" Stacked plate unit
• Previous owner replaced injector return lines and o-rings before I bought it
• New synthetic 75W140 oil in the differential
• Replaced tach sensor
• Replaced U-Joints

Planned:

• Replace entire brake system short of the metal lines themselves
  • Brake shudder under heavy braking and general inspection revealed warped rotors, and the rear drums/hardware are an unknown, rear anti-lock dash light likes to make gues appearances, etc.
  • Replace rear hub bearings/seals while I have the brakes apart, top off differential afterwards as required.
• Install new injectors and set pump timing (with typ4 making sure things are done properly)
• Replace batteries
• Install/connect horn (at present I just hear a relay click near the passenger seat footwell and haven't seen the horn itself)
• Modify headlight wiring to a proper relay setup and update headlight bulbs with brighter units
• Replace existing cooling system
  • Thermostat, water-pump, fan-clutch, coolant-hoses
  • Keep current belts/hoses as spares
• Replace belts while doing the cooling system, keep current units as spares
• Install the reman (tested good at O'Reilys) 3g alternator I snagged at a junkyard
  • Bright reman alternator in an otherwise unwashed Taurus engine is a good bet it was fairly low miles, purchased cables/fuses/connections as described by existing guides.
• Improve transmission auxiliary cooling
  • Install 180 deg thermostat, wide/shallow auxiliary transmission cooler, and trans cooler inline filter
  • Move cooler location to below/behind bumper and duct as required
• Clean all transmission terminals
• Install bypass oil system
  • Add spin-on filter bypass/outlet, oil lines, remote filter mount, and 200 deg Mocal thermostat per FORDF250HDXLT's description of his system from an old FTE post (Thank you for the detailed information and results)
  • Clean current stacked plate ATF aux cooler and add fittings for oil lines as necessary to move it to engine oil duty with the relocated trans cooler
  • Add oil temp gauge with sender because I'm paranoid
• Install/fab front valence below bumper, duct air for coolers and install fog lights
• Replace all 6 tires and spare with new highway tread rubber (leaning towards Michelin Defender LTX M/S)
• Install Derale 14208 Deep cooling pan and flush all transmission fluid
  • The cooling features seems a bit gimmicky, but the added capacity and drain plug are worth it IMO and to my knowledge it is an unmodified 1989 e4od (worst possible scenario)
• Replace shocks at all 4 corners
• Replace drive shaft carrier bearing and have the driveshaft balanced if necessary
• Replace broken running board lights and lights below tailgate
• Open or replace driver side rear door that refuses to unlock or open
• Drop both fuel tanks and inspect/repair fuel senders
  • Replace Rear tank with 38 gallon F26E spectra unit

Anything obvious I'm missing? Any brands of parts I should specifically use/avoid (I know about the thermostat already).

 

[Macrobb]

Keep your set of tools handy when you're making the drive. Just assume that /something/ will happen, and be prepared.
If you prepare and have everything ready to fix it if it breaks... it won't break.


Tires wise, not sure if you need them or what your price range is, but my go-to tire is the Michelin XPS traction. They ride quite nicely for me, are a commercial-grade tire and are extremely strong and solid.
They are a bit expensive, but if you go through TireBuyer.com you can get a set of 4 shipped for $1300 or so.
And they wear /really/ nicely, so they'll last a lot longer than others. They also seem to be made of higher quality rubber than some of the cheaper ones - I've got some 20 year old(3 digit date-code) XPS tractions that are still pliable and have no age cracking. I used them for over a year until I bought a new set recently.

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

You seem to have it covered. Only thing I would note is use an IH or Ford thermostat. Aftermarket ones will not work correctly.
How many miles are on the truck? I am having a hard time imagining you have a ****** E4OD.

 

[MtnHaul]

I also have the RABS dash light making guest appearances for the last 2 years and I think I finally MAY have found the issue or at least part of it. I tried grounding the test connector located behind the glove box but never got an error code to flash. The PO or somebody had clearly messed with the connector before so I don't know if it was even still connected properly. After much internet searching yesterday I stumbled on some info that points to the brake light switch circuit being the culprit--the brake light switch located on the upper brake pedal--or at least part of the problem. My RABS dashlight illuminates once I hit 37mph which evidently is the exact speed the light is supposed to come on if your brake light switch circuit is compromised. I don't know if this is your issue but thought I'd share this 'cuz I was stumped for quite a while on this one. I will try and replace the brake light switch today and report back what if anything it changes.

 

[jayro88]

If you want to spend the $ on the trans pan for a drain plug go ahead, but I wouldn't. Here is why....

1. They DO NOT help cooling. Ford engineers did a test using temp sensors etc and found that the large finned pans did nothing for cooling. The added capacity can keep temps lower during intermittent hard work since the greater volume gives the fluid more thermal capacity, but this also means that it is harder to cool down afterwards.
2. As far as the drain plug, I see no reason to need one. Transmission engineers say that changing the trans filter borderlines on pointless except in extenuating circumstances plus just dropping the pan and replacing the fluid by this method doesn't do a whole lot due to the small amount of actual fluid replaced. It is suggested that you don't drop the pan and instead pull the trans going back to trans from the cooler. Put the line in a bucket, start the truck and start pouring clean fluid in the filler neck. Keep an eye since many times fluid is pumped out a little faster than you can pour it in. Have a helper run the transmission through the different gear selection. Keep going until the fluid being pumped out is bright red. This way you do a complete fluid change of the system.

Just my .02, take it or leave it.

Overall it sounds like you have your bases covered well. I always take a set of hand tools long with a fuel filter and some extra fluids.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

• • Add spin-on filter bypass/outlet, oil lines, remote filter mount, and 200 deg Mocal thermostat per FORDF250HDXLT's description of his system from an old FTE post (Thank you for the detailed information and results)

just in case you don't know,this isn't a bypass filter setup but rather a full flow external oil cooling system.if your looking for a bypass filtration system,im sure there's better ways.in which case also,there wouldn't be any use for the t-stat.

aux oil cooler install

before contemplating adding expensive aux oil cooling,you should first monitor your oil temps.remember we all use our trucks much differently.
if i had remained with the mechanical engine fan,rather than swapping to electric on this truck,it's likely i would never bothered.
even then,it wasn't a requirement.i was simply looking for another way to reduce the electric fan run time to increase overall engine efficiency.this was well worth it in my case as i plan to keep the truck for several years,making a very good return on every dollar spent on the truck.ever so very slowly over the years,i may get my money back in the next 10 years....maybe.mostly though,it greatly reduced the load on the cooling system so i can just haul heavy with the truck,like it just came stock with electric engine fans without worry,under any conditions i through at it and it's perfectly all 'employee safe' as no matter how hard it gets driven,all temps will always remain in the safe zone.

 

[Oelmensch]

Thanks for the input all, I sincerely appreciate it.

-Macrobb, Everything we own is coming with, and tools will be one of the last things loaded for easy access. Long term I plan to stuff a fairly robust truck-specific set into a box behind the rear seat, but that happens after we're settled. I looked at the XPS traction previously, but given that I need 7 tires, they're a tough pill to swallow at those prices.

-Shadetreemechanic, I definitely plan to use the proper Ford/IH thermostat after seeing years worth of postings hammering that point. My understanding is Ford replaced/updated the part number to RT1049, but if that isn't the case, please feel free to correct me.
The truck has somewhere between 190k-290k miles based on a few things (curse the 5 digit odo), I'd be inclined to guess 290k. There are definitely signs someone took care of it over time (napa coolant hoses, reman sticker on the alternator, shop service sticker on the injection pump, etc.), but I'd rather put in the time/work to have important things in a known condition whenever reasonable.

-MtnHaul, I'm definitely interested to hear if that is the cause of your RABS indicator, though I will likely replace everything all the same since it is essentially unknown history and pushing 30 years old soon. I'm paranoid, I know.

-jayro88, I agree with the majority of your thoughts, and really don't expect any significant cooling from the pan itself (hence the aux cooler setup). The added capacity cutting both ways (time to heat/cool) is spot on as well, but also gives a little cushion if I spring a leak somehow along the way (but then takes that much more fuild to top off after fixing as well).
I prefer to drain/fill the pan with fresh fluid before starting a flush job out of a cooler line as you described; did that previously with my wife's car and had a distinct moment where the hose started pumping out clean/new fluid compared to the cola-looking juice that had likely never been changed before that. Plus it gives a touch more buffer to the fill/empty speed difference you described to start with the pan full of good stuff.

-FORDF250HDXLT, Sorry about my brain-fart mislabeling the system, you're absolutely correct. Ironically, I had a full-flow setup on an old baja bug a little over a decade ago that I drilled-tapped/installed myself, but that was largely because they just had a kitchen sink strainer screening the oil at the pickup tube and I wasn't comfortable with that on a built engine. My options were use a full flow (takeoff at the pump, return through a tapped oil galley) or one of those sketchy oil pump cover filters. Not a hard decision at the time.
For this particular trip the aux oil cooling likely isn't terribly necessary, though I will be crossing a few west coast mountain passes before I finally skirt the Rockies. We're leaving Portland taking I5 south to LA and then pointing it East, but possibly a detour through Reno and back to Sacramento to say high to family on our way out. The detour depends on the weather though, I mean it does involve crossing Donner's Pass in early February... . I'm ok with avoiding that in a loaded up 2wd truck/trailer combo unless things are looking very friendly road-wise.
Long term this truck is destined to pull a mid 20' 5th wheel for family vacations and I'd rather put in the work now and see oil temps never become a factor down the road when it is less convenient, but like I said earlier, I'm paranoid. Ideally I'd have had the oil temp gauge already and used that to note temps as much as possible, but that just isn't the case and I'm thinking erring on the side of caution can't hurt much (but my bank account...).
I'm hoping to keep this truck until it rusts out from under me (and taking measures to prevent that from happening) so anything that protects my time/money investments is worth considering.

 

[MtnHaul]

Well after nearly two years of staring at my ABS dash light I finally achieved victory. Of course the fix was simple once I understood the symptoms. By luck I stumbled onto some great info on a Full Size Bronco forum where someone had the exact same issue as me--ABS dash light would come on at 37mph. As it turns out my LED flatbed lights were the culprit--and since this was something done by the PO I really never considered that my taillights could be involved here. I believe it is the brakelight switch(on the brake pedal) that senses how much current is drawn by the brakelights(shocker!) and since I had LED ST/T/T and running lights the system thought ALL my brakelights were non-functional and for some reason this kicks in at 37mph and the ABS light illuminates. So the fix was easy--just bought 2 Sylvania LED load equalizers/resistors and installed one on each brake light. Problem solved. I already had an LED flasher so I assumed I was good to go, but no. Anyways, I was glad that I didn't need a new RABS valve or module or something else expensive. Hope yours is a simple fix too. And interestingly enough the cruise control is also tied into this. Once the resistors were in place my cruise control started working again.

 

[Oelmensch]

Interesting. I paid more attention to the timing of my dash light, unfortunately there appears to be no apparent connection to speed. Sometimes it is on from the initial start, other times it comes/goes with a stop or just driving along. Very strange. Congrats on finding your issue though, and an obscure one at that.

 

[typ4]

I would leave the oil system alone, you are not making a difference on a used engine IMO.
Also dont change the trans pan, waste of money, I see someone said that already. Just drop pan, change all fluid, drain convertor if it has a plug, DO NOT take it to get flushed. It will kill the trans.
Clean fluid in trans is more important than more.
Definately do the 3g swap, if you have questions I can help with that.
Also can help with getting rear door open.

 

[typ4]

And I can get good batteries for 80 ish each. Not a national brand but we consistently get 3-5 yrs out of them at work.

 

[pafixitman]

I know everyone is telling you not to change the trans pan, but IMHO if you are dropping it to change the fluid, get a 4R100 pan (F81Z7A194BA) they run about $40 and have the plug. Direct bolt in. Makes future fluid changes cleaner!

 

[jayro88]

I know everyone is telling you not to change the trans pan, but IMHO if you are dropping it to change the fluid, get a 4R100 pan (F81Z7A194BA) they run about $40 and have the plug. Direct bolt in. Makes future fluid changes cleaner!

For $40 i may replace the pan, just incase i needed drainplug for something.......however i never drop the pan to change the fuid.

Just drop pan, change all fluid, drain convertor if it has a plug, DO NOT take it to get flushed. It will kill the trans.
Clean fluid in trans is more important than more.

Are you talking about the "flush" that places will do using chemical, pressure, reverse flow etc or do you consider pulling the cooler to trans line and using the trans pump to do a fluid swap a "flush"?

 

[The Bus]

I don't know if this has been mentioned, but take along a couple of extra fuel filters, extra oil and filter, and coolant.

A little extra wire, connectors, and some tape for good measure. Don't forget to have a small multi meter too, saved my bacon a time or too!

I had a friend tell me that a rock or something knocked a small hole in the side of his oil filter in the middle of Kansas. Then he followed up on how populated the middle of Kansas was.

Fuel can also be an issue cross country and gum up a filter or two.

Also, double check the return lines to make sure the one leading back to the tank (back of the engine one my bus) was changed as well.

I put off changing mine and well, I learned how much fuel returns to the tank.


Good luck!

 

[Oelmensch]

Well, I replaced the old pyrometer and installed an oil temp gauge along with getting my transmission temp gauge working as well and have come to a few initial conclusions after putting a few miles on the system.

First up, I absolutely need a transmission cooler thermostat; never even got up to 120 deg over 9 miles (each way, about an hour between driving at my destination), let alone the 175 deg they're supposedly designed to run at (per other posts to the effect of the target range being 175-225 deg). The (11"x11" stacked plate) cooler mounted in front of the radiator is working too well driving around unloaded to let the system get up to operating temp around town.

Next, I might not need to do anything with the oil system. Moving the mechanical oil pressure takeoff point down closer to the block showed much improved pressure (50psi cold, 17-20psi hot idle, 45 psi hot at 1900 rpms on the freeway) and oil temps stayed well under 200 over the same 9 miles, though the sender location is not as directly in the flow as I'd like, might try and move it to a galley plug next to the oil filter next time I change that and improve the accuracy a bit. Also inspected the oil cooler thoroughly; not seeing signs of a leak or reason to suspect it needs to come apart, which is nice since my cooling system pieces showed up and I'll be tackling that project this weekend.

Finally, I installed the new pyrometer probe from beneath the #6 and #8 cylinder exhaust manifold. Used the 'drill while the engine is running' approach, low gear on the cordless, moderate pressure, no center punch, and surrounded the drill site with stacks of rare earth fridge magnets (which are super fun to try and clean afterwards...). I don't know about anyone else who has drilled it like that before, but it was an experience to say the least, but it is in. Tested the fitting fit several times based on advice from several other threads on the subject as I tapped to avoid going too deep; saw an old one from Russ about tapping all but the final 4 threads on the (quality) tap, pretty damn close.
With the pyrometer probe in the exhaust manifold I'm seeing considerably higher temperatures except at idle and significantly faster gauge response going in both directions. I saw someone say that having the probe after the turbo would cause optimistic temps by 200+ degrees and can definitely confirm that matches what I'm seeing, but my comparison includes a different gauge/probe and I didn't have a ton of confidence in my old one. Previously had an old ISSPRO unit installed in the exhaust side of the 088 turbo.
Hoping that new injectors and proper pump timing improves the temps, time will tell.

If this weekend goes well without surprises I should have the cooling buttoned up properly and will assess what my next step is, likely just replacing transmission hoses/lines and a proper fluid change (pumping it out a hose) and adding the thermostat to the auxiliary cooler so it doesn't get involved until everything is hot enough to justify it.

+++Small Update+++
In no surprise to anyone who has used them for more than one thing at a time when you need it all at once, Amazon has delayed delivery on the water pump, which made it to town but is delayed for 'weather'. Apparently rain in Portland is grounds for a national shipping company to delay delivery, but the hipsters on single-speed bikes continue their skinny-jeans clad trek across town without pause. Sad.