1968 f250 2wd 360 to 4x4 6.9 swap

Thewespaul · Nov 24, 2016

Pics! Especially of that air to water setup :sly

bbjordan · Nov 24, 2016

Subscribed. :popcorn

68f2506.9 · Nov 25, 2016

I am looking to have a bit more power than the stock powerstroke, and turbo because more engine efficiency and better fuel consumption. I have an intercooler from a 05 dodge cummins. I got my fuel system primed again and got her running after running my glow plugs for about a minute. I must have the timing right, cause it runs really good and sounds aggressive.

bbjordan · Nov 25, 2016

A minute!

You know only a few seconds are needed right? 4 - 10 seconds depending on the temperature.

68f2506.9 · Dec 31, 2016

Ok I have been gone for over a month but I got $1200 of parts from lmc and got another donor truck because my truck has a rusted out seam behind the gas tank. I got clutch parts and brake stuff, so I will soon have to start putting it together.

Thewespaul · Apr 2, 2017

Must have update -Drool

68f2506.9 · Sep 2, 2017

I just got my password figured out for this forum again. Little update on the swap, been media blasting the body, cutting out swiss metal and welding in new. The cab is fixed and primed, The motor and trans are sitting in it, need to move the motor forward 2" to clear the cab and I need to get my super cooling rad so I can fit the engine. It is on the way, 4 core copper/brass from performance radiator, my wallet is 700 lighter anyways. Will get the inner fenders primed this weekend and core support so can get it all fitting as it should. I rebuilt the rear end, new everything on the brakes. I also permanently mounted the transfer case and got it working.

Thewespaul · Sep 2, 2017

Awesome! So glad you are still making progress on this!

68f2506.9 · Sep 2, 2017

This body work is not my thing. Doing it right so I don't have to do it again. I will stick to just swapping engines and such after this, but I want this to be a nice rig.

homelessduck · Sep 2, 2017

Picturessss

Macrobb · Sep 3, 2017

franklin2 said:
I would have said that too years ago. I always had older cars with mechanical linkage clutches. But I have been driving several later model trucks with the hydraulic setup, and it's pretty reliable. I really have never had a failure after years of use on my diesel and my little ranger pickup.

I've had two failures of IDI/zf5 hydraulics:
On my 92, after sitting for 3 years and having been parked because of clutch issues, it had no pedal(when I bought it). Filled the brake fluid, and it bled and worked, though lost prime really quickly. Replacing the 25 year old slave cylinder cost maby $50 and took an hour - No issues after that.

On a friend's 94, I found that someone had added a "shield" of phenolic between the plastic clutch line and the exhaust manifold, which eventually wore through the line and caused major leakage.
A new line, not particularly expensive, fixed that right up.

This is out of a sample of 8 manual IDIs I have or work with... Age is definitely a factor here.

I've never had one fail on me, and I like how they work.

edit:
Looks like I responded to an old post in this thread. Still, point stands.

79jasper · Sep 3, 2017

I had a slave cylinder fail from a ID10T error.
Cycled the clutch with the trans removed/slave not installed. Lol
I did have it randomly go emptyish on me. Didn't leak anywhere I could see. Still don't know where it went. But been fine since.

Now mechanical OTOH, (79 Chevy) I did have to do some adjusting now and again.
But I gotta say peddle weight (force required?) Is better with the hydraulic.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

68f2506.9 · Sep 3, 2017

Thanks, I went hydraulic new everything.

68f2506.9 · Sep 4, 2017