Sometimes it will and
sometimes it won't start with the quick shot of that. When I have done it that way the glow plugs have not been "on" as I know that is the way you break stuff unnecessarily.
But it always fires with the block heater connected and will always restart after warm.
I have a 1985 F350 Crew Cab 6.9 Diesel - C6 Auto.
I have replaced any and all rubber in the fuel system lines. Installed new Orings and fuel return line kit on the injectors. New mechanical lift pump with an inline electric pump before the water separator. 8 New Genuine Motorcraft ZD-1 Glow...
Simple questions:
Which one is better for the 6.9 IDI ?
Any advantage of using one over the other ?
Anyone use the Rotella of either "blend" ?
Reason for asking is that I'm due for an oil change and I can get a gallon of Rotella 15w40 for $12.50. The Synthetic is obviously a little more...
The bushing on the upper ball joint sounds wonderful.
On my 1967 F100 the camber is changed by heating the TTB ends and putting a "fixture" on it and bending it up or down. Ford used to do it that way.
The "fixture" actually uses a hydraulic bottle jack to help bend the beams.
1988 Suburban 4x4 (350/700R4)
1992 Isuzu P'up (2.3 I4/5 speed)
1995 Maxima (3.0 V6/Auto)
1967 Ford F100 (351W/C4)
1969 Ford LTD (390/C6)
I have others..... but these are the "regulars" per se.
King pin bushings can get worn to the point of not allowing the steering to come back to center as well. Easy way to check those is the same way you would check ball joints. Grab the top of the tire and shake the truck from side to side. If it has play in it then your bushings need replaced...
King pin bushings can get worn to the point of not allowing the steering to come back to center as well. Easy way to check those is the same way you would check ball joints. Grab the top of the tire and shake the truck from side to side. If it has play in it then your bushings need replaced...
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