If you have the heads off you can still use the starter and see what your oil pressure is, I know on my engine I can get 40-50psi of oil pressure just from the starter turning the engine over. Your engine having no heads would make it a lot easier for the starter to turn it and you can watch the...
Cold glowplugs have a 0.25 ohm resistance, each plug draws over 50A-60A(battery voltage drop dependent) each, they drop quickly to about 30A in 3 or so seconds. So initial switch on your up around 400A draw, dropping to about half after several seconds. These plugs draw a lot more than people...
The inner pinion bearing changed when they went to the 10.5, if your putting 10.5 gears in a 10.25 housing you have to use the 10.5 inner pinion bearing in the 10.25 housing.
I highly recommend NOT using hydraulic hoses or any metal braided lines from the pump to hydroboost as they couple engine noise and pump noise to the firewall, been there done it, sucks having that loud ps wine when turning or breaking.
For some reason I didn't get notified about your earlier post, maybe because you tagged me I got notified this time?;Poke
I'm using the u8x8 library, when you call u8x8.setFont(u8x8_font_8x13_1x2_r); the "r" at the end sets the reduced front set, "f" uses the full set and "n" only has numbers...
Been busy with a new job so I haven’t been working on it a ton but I have found that the I2C (IIC) interface is the bottle neck running 9 displays, I have the I2C interface running at 1Mhz instead of 400Khz which helps and I’m only updating displays that have changed in valve which helps a lot...
I figured I should start my own thread for this, here’s my version of an arduino and gauges. I wanted something that would go into the factory location and replace those 4 useless gauges with something that is more accurate. These little 0.96” OLED displays fit nicely, have great light output...
The flexplates look the same, will bolt up the same but the factory turbo has more counter weight then the non turbo, if you run a non turbo plate on a turbo engine, the engine will be out of balance and shake badly.
Your best bet is to ditch all the factory gauges and put useful sensors in, not sure what your using for a micro but an esp32 would give you Bluetooth and wifi and a ton of processing power if you need it.
Here’s a little something I’ve been playing with to replace the 4 useless gauges with 9...
My setup started was this, worked pretty good but wasn’t very pretty.
Then I made this to clean it up, it’s a touch screen so I can easily switch between different pages to see more info but it’s a bit small.
This is the latest thing I’m working on that will replace the instrument cluster, 7”...
@1mouse3 what I did for sensors was go to a wrecking yard and pull a bunch off of trucks, most will be good with the odd bad one. The 7.3l EBP sensor is a 1/8”npt, I’m using one for boost and fuel pressure as it will show vacuum(more about this later), I have a EOP sensor from some Chevy truck...
The tube is just there to keep the sensor away from the heat, there is no restriction in the system. Just so you know, the 7.3ps sensor goes up to about 40psi, the 6.0ps and 6.4ps go to about 80psi.
For some reason rockauto doesn’t show the return line under the 6.9L or 7.3L engine option, but if you look under a gasser engine it shows the cooler line which hasn’t changed since 1983.
It appears that the vans never got the cooler line though they should of had the option in my opinion...
You could swap out your brake switch from a superduty 99-2010, they bolt right on and have an extra wire for ground. When the pedal is at rest it grounds out the brake light circuit and when you push the pedal it switches 12v to the brake lights. With this switch you could have no brake lights...
I swapped the mounting plate and rod over from my 90s unit to the 08 unit, one can easily modify the 08 mounting plate and shorten the pushrod to make it work.
I had a 460 zf5 behind my engine and absolutely hated it, first was useless, 2nd was a bit tall to start off in and having to rev it up to 2500 rpm so you didn’t lug it in the next gear sucked, if I shifted at 2k it would be around 1K in the next gear. I only dd but if I towed it would be even...
2005 is when they went with the 1-1/2” master cylinder, I don’t believe it will fit on a 2004 hydroboost though. I know 1-1/2” mc doesn’t fit the 90s hydroboost and is why I bought an 08 hydroboost.
I’ve been running an 08 hydroboost and MC for years now, the 08 MC uses a 1-1/2” bore instead of the 1-5/16” bore on the 90s truck. The bigger MC won’t fit the older hydroboost.
Hopefully more soon, currently swapping out the dead zf5 for a 4r100 auto and doing a bunch of wiring I haven’t had time/ambition to do, hopefully I’ll have an update about the custom gauges soon
Going through my factory ats 093 turbo and there’s a few things that look odd that I’m hoping the turbo rebuild guys could help with.
First is the center section on the exhaust side where an oil sealing ring runs, is it supposed to have a grove in it?
Second is the oil sealing ring has wear...
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