20 years or newer has to pass emmisions in certain counties (not mine), other than that, its a safety inspection, headlights taillights, brakes, wipers, blinkers and horn.
I'll just go with gut and tell him to get it running before I look at it. Its a bullnose bronco, 6.9-t19-bw1345-d60/13.25(3.55:1) basically everything I want in one package, he wont give me a price, wants an offer.
Looking at getting back in the idi world, and found a truck that I like and the price is decent, guy said a rocker broke and bent a pushrod, and I'm wondering if I can pull the rocker arms and pushrods off of my truck (7.3) and put them on his (6.9) to get it going or should I just pass it up?
This is how I figured out my fuel pump gave up on me when I had the stock mechanical pump, luckily it didn't fill my crank case with diesel but this was annoying at the time. It would jump and buck just about out from under me, then smooth out, it was like the pump couldn't handle the surge of...
I need someone to look at a vehicle for me in Yucca, I can't really afford to fly out to look if it's not even worth the flight. Would be a heap of help getting me back into the IDI world. Private message me or reply here for details. Thanks in advance!
That idle sounds low/retarded. Does what mine use to do with the idle dropping low after letting out of the throttle. I would clean the IP and injectors, and get the timing set. That should help enough to see how bad your injectors are and see how bad you need an IP.
Fwiw, when tightening something like this, you should hold back up on the stud (with the allen wrench that fits the hole on top, maybe) to avoid the stud turning in the block instead of the nut turning on the stud. May have been the problem.
I accidentally ran with one battery from march this year til October. Then had a cold day and looked for why I couldn't start. When I relocated the batteries to the flatbed, I forgot to hook one back up. Oops.
Only if you're cooling the post-pan, pre-internal oil. If it is just pan to cooler back to pan or even turbo drain to cooler to pan, or the such, it'd be a non problem.
JM2CW
An option for thise with handshaker transmissions would be to run oil through the trans cooler in the radiator. This seems to be the route I'll take. Warms oil quicker, keeps oil in that safe range, and looks oem.
I feel like you may be wrong, since I've driven my truck daily, hauled 6-8000 lbs regularly in Tx heat, and have heard my fan lock up twice. The fans don't have to move air very often, or move very much air if all else is working well.
I have heard some of the 2wd Doug Nashes, and USG's are actually 4wd with an adapter on the output shaft, I would like to know if this is what you have.
The thing that makes mine not much of a hassle is that I'm going from auto to standard anyway, so I weighed my options and this yields more gears than a zf, a lower first, and a steeper overdrive. So I would need to change driveshafts anyways. As for the why opt for the swap of 3.55 right off...
Ahh. You're right. I got the numerical value mixed up for the gear value. It would sit 1" higher in the front than the back (in comparison to the way it sits now). Would level it a little, but would look a little funny and I would have to do something about rubbing. No way.
May get stuck with...
The downfall to DN, USG, and GV boxes is that they see the multiplied torque after the transmission and in 4wd applications the transfer case too, the otger downfall is they have to spin both directions. The first is more prone to cause problems, but the second can't be ignored either. If you...
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