Thinking of building a trailer

I know we got some welder/trailer makers here. Trying to get an idea if I want to take on the adventure. So let me tell you what I'm thinking of and yall can say yes or no.

Want 10k trailer 7'6" by 24' with lower deck
Main beams 6 x 2 x .200 c-channel
Cross members at 16" 2 x 1 x 3/16 channel.

With axles and deck everything should be about 1700 to 2000 pounds.

Now if I'm wrong on stuff I have never built a trailer before.

Thanks in advance.

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Il post some pictures of my utility trailer. The deck is 8' wide and 20' long. My dad made it a while ago.

make sure you get axles strong enough to carry the weight you wanna throw on it.
I have a wood deck on my 16 footer, I would prefer a steel deck.

Need minimum 3" channel cross members. I'd go 14" spacing even at that.

I like the stuff he does and the way he explains things.

I'd put the springs under the axle to make the trailer sit a little lower if clearance allows.

@IDIoit I'm putting two 7k axle set under it.
@SebastIDIan I like his video but his trailer is to tall. I'm going to build me fenders into the trailer. They might stick up from the deck 2 to 3 inch. 6 inch tubing is strong but is it needed.
I can get 6 inch channel for $140 24ft
Vs tubing for 303 14ft

So @sjwelds you say 6 inch channel for the frame is fine jus go 3 inch on the joists?

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make sure you get your axle(s) to tongue, 'length ratio' correct. If I recall right, it should be around 60% to 40% ratio length wise. You can find a lot of threads on google regarding the proper spacing; the goal in mind is to keep the trailer from fish tailing loaded, or unloaded. Also, you're looking for 10 to 15% tongue weight on a bumper pull, and I think a 20 to 25% gooseneck tongue weight.

A great way to build a DIY trailer is to look for older travel trailer frame, and axles on craigslist; often times you can find the overall trailer ready to go; just cut to length desired, re-weld tongue. Usually these set ups have 6k+ axles, with brakes on both axles ready to go, and all for under $500.

Regarding wood decks, or steel, I've got no preference, but if you go wood, you may want to look at a Poplar/Cottonwood decking material, it should be cheaper, and instead of chipping, or splintering it'll tend to 'shred, with varied use(such as machinery tracks turning, or moving on it).

The only other thing that comes to mind when I built mine, is you want to make sure that with DOT you're clear with them regarding the use. The point there, is if you title it as X, but use, or build the trailer for something else, it can end up a pita.

I like to buy old farm trailers built for hauling hay. They are dirt cheap, massively overbuilt and typically have two 6000 lb motorhome axles. I check for straightness before buying, then reinforce all the welds, and chop and modify for my exact needs. I build all my trailers to max width of 8.5ft. They are a bit more challenging to keep within the lines on narrow roads but I’ve never had a problem. I cut off the oddball motorhome spindles and weld on new #42 spindles, add new electric brakes and drums and get 8-lug wheels/tires from the scrapyards. I replace the wiring and upgrade to LED lights. A 10,000lb trailer would cost me about a grand in materials. A comparable trailer at a dealer would be closer to 3 grand. The frames from mobile home trailers and travel trailers that I inspected were too light duty for my needs, made almost completely from 1/8" steel.


Regarding your plan, I think your cross members are marginally okay if using wood planks like 12”x2” and secured to the cross members with a boatload of 1/4” lagbolts. I’m assuming the 2” side will face the underside of the deck. The wood will add quite a bit of strength and rigidity until it starts to rot. I prefer to over build and use steel decks. I’m assuming the highest psi load will be from a vehicle. Your empty weight will probably be closer to 2000 lbs.

rustygold said:

I know we got some welder/trailer makers here. Trying to get an idea if I want to take on the adventure. So let me tell you what I'm thinking of and yall can say yes or no.

Want 10k trailer 7'6" by 24' with lower deck
Main beams 6 x 2 x .200 c-channel
Cross members at 16" 2 x 1 x 3/16 channel.

With axles and deck everything should be about 1700 to 2000 pounds.

Now if I'm wrong on stuff I have never built a trailer before.

Thanks in advance.

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Click to expand...

I recommend you go to some trailer places or some friends that may have a trailer that would work for you, and take some measurements. Thickness and size of the metal, number of crossmembers, axle placement, etc. That's what I did, I thought why re-invent the wheel? I copied mine from a store bought trailer a friend had and it works well, pulls good, handles good. Here's when I was building it.

here is a few. it sounds like what I have would be a good fit for you. the only thing we need to upgrade is the axles. with small tires it sits pretty low.

for reference and no BS, this trailer dry on the scale is 3,500 pounds.

kind of a lot of pictures but you can get the idea.

You can't see it in my picture, but if you are going to be hauling a lot of vehicles, I would put a dovetail on the back. It's very difficult to load modern cars will very little ground clearance on a flat deck trailer. It requires very long ramps.

I would put a lot of thought in your ramps also. Very little thought means some thick boards that you have to lug around and always remember to throw on the trailer and tie down. My trailer needed very short ramps since I have a dovetail, and I like the way they stick up when I fold them up. It helps me back the trailer up, you would be surprised how a empty trailer disappears behind a closed tailgate in the rearview mirror.

I would also put short legs on your ramps. If you have ramps that you just throw on the trailer you will have to also carry around blocks. If you don't, as you drive up on the trailer the load pushes the back of the trailer down, and the truck's rear tires will actually come off the ground. No problem unless you are on a hill, and then the whole operation starts rolling down the hill. Not a good thing. You will see these ramp legs on store bought trailers.

I have been looking at a 35k/40k gooseneck in the front of my shop it's super long 45ft with dovetail.

They used
12 inch I beams
2 inch channel at 3/16 on 16 inch centers.
And support bracing ever other joist.

I did find an old hay fram gooseneck for $800 35ft long.
It was made from a camper farm and done wrong. Super weak plus it had the old two pice rims that I don't like.

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I'm thinking of have ramps something like that.


Found a picture of the trailer I want.


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Found this $400 has trailer brakes. its 21'6" by 8'. 25' total

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Yup, that's a camper frame.
Good start.

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