Facet fuel pump users question

Hope all is well with the lift pump. I just got my 40222 in the mail last week. probably won't see use for a few months though until I finish Donna.
Of course that "few months" could easily be an understatement

Clb said:

Last I heard mel said over say 8-9 psi the db2 looses the advance curve.
3-4 i think is normal...
Brb

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I'm probably wrong, but I thought it was the other way around.
More inlet pressure = more advance.

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The facet on my 6.9 crew cab has worked great. Even hauling I don't see less than 4 psi. Normally in the 6 range.

The facet I had on my 7.3 F250 never was worth a crap. No fuel pressure. I bought a Holley red knock off that was on sale at Advanced to replace the Duralift. I've been running it without issue for a couple of years now.

Both pumps were mounted in the same place (on frame in front of the FSV), same fittings, same fuel lines.... one has been great, the other is just sitting on the shelf.

Heath

79jasper said:

I'm probably wrong, but I thought it was the other way around.
More inlet pressure = more advance.

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It looses the advance curve because it's just always advanced. At least that is my understanding.

It definitely sounds like it from the difference at idle on my truck. Higher pressure made my high idle while at timing advance sound creepy powerstroke like.

Higher pressure causes the IP's internal plunger to advance. Under acceleration, the electric pump doesn't deliver that constant pressure and the timing retards a bit.

I'm set at 10* right now due to turning the IP down 1 flat after setting it at 9* and the issue I have with that is hitting higher EGT's quicker. I think 9* may be the sweet spot on my N/A IDI with the Duralift. The 4 psi mine makes at WOT is still more than what the mechanical lift pump makes however. Sometimes it'll only run like 5-6 psi at startup and cruise. When I turn off the kill switch for the pump while running, I can hear the timing difference (less clatter) and doing it with the pedal down I can feel the difference that little bit of fuel pressure advance gives.

Oh, and I have my pump powered via a relay that is triggered by the FSS power and a 3 prong oil pressure switch. One terminal gets input, one output until oil pressure builds, then it switches to the other terminal for output which would cut all power if the engine losses oil pressure so the pump doesn't continue to run (all outlined in the link in my sig as well as the priming circuit).

If you're still running the Duralift, I wonder if it could have anything to do with the porting from 1/8" NPT to 1/4" NPT that you did?

79jasper said:

I'm probably wrong, but I thought it was the other way around.
More inlet pressure = more advance.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

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Yes sir you are correct!
By losses I meant it affected the curve( by putting advance in) the tidbit was a leader for the search button...
Its a great writeup by Mel.

crash-harris said:

Higher pressure causes the IP's internal plunger to advance. Under acceleration, the electric pump doesn't deliver that constant pressure and the timing retards a bit.

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Also, if you were only ever getting 2psi with a mechanical and the lowest you get with an electric is 4 your still more advanced at all times then you were previously for timing purposes.

My hose barb was 1/8 into the inlet of the fuel filter housing and I used an adapter and had no I'll effects. All of the hose ports in the pump were 1/8 anyways.

Exactly.

I seem to remember laser saying that he drilled the ports on his pump out to 1/4" NPT to reduce restriction.

I left mine 1/8" NPT and used 1/4" barbs like you.

I didn't drill the pump. I drilled the fittings I was using. Swagelok fittings at 1/8 npt have a tiny hole through them because the are rated to like 7000 psi. I ported the fitting out to match closer to the tubing size.

Thinking on this, I may need to put in a section of soft line before the pump. The inner fender may wiggle too much and that may be what causes it to loosen up.

laserjock said:

I didn't drill the pump. I drilled the fittings I was using. Swagelok fittings at 1/8 npt have a tiny hole through them because the are rated to like 7000 psi. I ported the fitting out to match closer to the tubing size.

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I found that if you use a close 1/8 inch npt nipple with a 1/8 inch ntp 90 then the 1/8 inch npt to barbed adapter , it has much less restriction then using a combined 1/8 service ell and barbed adapter.

I'm sure it would. I used a 3/8 swagelok compression to 1/8 npt straight adapter and bored the fitting through I believe to 1/4" or a little over. It's close to full flow of the 3/8 tubing.