from what I can tell, the intake valve was almost just scuffing the piston. so maybe that wasn't very noticeable. the exhaust valve looked like it was hitting the piston just at certain times, maybe just at higher EGTs.
project: watch out Kentuckians
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from what I can tell, the intake valve was almost just scuffing the piston. so maybe that wasn't very noticeable. the exhaust valve looked like it was hitting the piston just at certain times, maybe just at higher EGTs.
Again, the lower compression height pistons will give 0.010. Not sure if there is another way to get the clearance you'll need. How about the heads and valves. Have you pulled the valves to look for issues, make sure their in spec?
Heath
Heath
Oh yes mine is done. 2 weeks after the rally was the last time it ran. Lots of blowby, compression numbers that go from 275 to 380
valve recess in the heads need to be gone over and measured before you know what the problem is.
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I checked over the heads, the valve recession is in spec to the picture Brian posted. the only thing it doesn't say is the total valve length. does anyone have that measurement?
F350camper
BOOST!
So were did you end up on all this?
I can't see how total valve length would have anything to do with your valve-to-piston clearance.
I was just curious I guess. the measurements are the same on my current heads and the other set I have. so I figured it wasn't an issue.
I think my only options now are changing the cam or changing the pistons.
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im going to try to get in touch with Russ since it is his cam and go from there. at this point a cam swap would be the easiest thing to do and there doesn't seem to be any major damage done.
after all if I didn't find this out now I would have never known and could have run it for a long time.
I have some other things to do in the engine bay in the meantime while I figure out a safe plan for the motor.
putting the engine debacle to the side for a bit. what is the best way to clean this mess up? you can see one wire is broken, im not sure what it goes to but I would like to fix it.
from what I can tell the wire that is broken went to the larger bundle with 3 wires. if someone else knows its location please point me in the right direction.
from what I can tell the wire that is broken went to the larger bundle with 3 wires. if someone else knows its location please point me in the right direction.
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this does effect valve train geometry on a non adjustable valvetrain
So, that is a lot of contact. Not positive as to why.
That said, yes , from now on comp 910 springs are required. Shim to 1.800 installed height is what I do.
The reason is that with boost and high miles old ,weak, stock springs are causing contact on STOCK engines. I just looked at one tuesday. Only for sure is that the springs are weak.
Valve recession needs to be closer to the deep side if at all possible.
High oil pressure when cold with excess rpm will cause contact.
When you get it together if its too close retard the cam 1 tooth, that will open up clearances, doesnt hurt cam performance.
IP gear gets timed to crank. I am getting a procedure to post with all purchases.
I also have a new grind that will help, it is a little less duration to make the event later after TDC.
That said, yes , from now on comp 910 springs are required. Shim to 1.800 installed height is what I do.
The reason is that with boost and high miles old ,weak, stock springs are causing contact on STOCK engines. I just looked at one tuesday. Only for sure is that the springs are weak.
Valve recession needs to be closer to the deep side if at all possible.
High oil pressure when cold with excess rpm will cause contact.
When you get it together if its too close retard the cam 1 tooth, that will open up clearances, doesnt hurt cam performance.
IP gear gets timed to crank. I am getting a procedure to post with all purchases.
I also have a new grind that will help, it is a little less duration to make the event later after TDC.
If yellow its a constant power wire to something.
Those are your fusible links. Should be 5 of them. The smallest yellow is the hazard brake circuit. The other two yellows are constant power to the fuse panel and to the trailer charge plug on the dr inner fender. Red wire also goes to the trailer power plug on the dr fender. It would be power for the brake control. The black with orange or pink stripe not sure which, is headlight switch power.
I just did away with all of them and installed fuses.
I just did away with all of them and installed fuses.
I have a total of 6 wires, 2 are smaller gauge and 4 are larger. I have the black and red wire and rest are yellow.
what amp fuse did you use on them? do you have any pictures in your thread I could look at?
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