Project Big Red

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,129
Location
Maryland
Well, the 3.5" V and flanges were a failure on the exhaust brake. [emoji20]

There's no way the V band will work. Back to the drawing board.
 

subway

be nice to the admin :D
Joined
Oct 4, 2006
Posts
6,542
Reaction score
1,038
Location
York PA
If you need a gage cluster let me know I might know where one is.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,129
Location
Maryland
Thanks a heap!! I'll let you guys know. I suspect it's a ground problem. It worked when I pulled it. I think pretty much everything in the cluster worked. What didn't work was the lights. Now they work and the cluster is dead. The fact that nothing works screams it's an electrical problem. Would be pretty odd for everything to die at once.

Need something to go right today.
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,129
Location
Maryland
So I have been fighting with the cluster. Summarized here:

http://www.oilburners.net/threads/electrical-help.79527/

The situation has improved. Part of my problem was actually a BUNCH of burnt out bulbs.

Right now the tally is functional:
Left turn
Right turn
Seatbelt
RABS
Illumination
High beam
All the gauges
Heater controls and blower
Cargo light
Parking lights
Hi and low beams

Not working:
Check engine
Engine
Charging
4x4
Low range
Brake warning

So that's progress I guess. The high beam was my stupidity. The indicator actually ties in out at the DRL harness which if you were keeping score, I nuked. Manual says it ties in at the foot switch. Nope. So I tied it into my harness for the relay mod. All better.
I know am powering the cluster correctly. Not sure why. I changed fuses and tada. Old fuse tested good. Got me what actually changed.

So now I need to look at what's working and go from there. I suspect those may be problems out at the senders but I really don't know. All the indicators should self check on Key On power like the RABS is right?

Now It won't start with the key again. I'm not sure what that's about. I adjusted the ignition switch but no love. Lights dim like it's trying but no love. I put the charger on it. Maybe the batteries are a little flat with all the key on time etc. oh well. That's for another day. I'll probably order a new switch while I'm at it and it's easy to change.

Anyway I think the plan now is to keep putting things back together. Going to make some calls to see what the driveshaft is going to cost me.

I put the transfer case shifter in. That was not easy. I can't get it to shift. Probably need it to be running to get it to shift.

Still have to figure out the exhaust brake thing. I may have to make flanges.

Anyway, that's it for tonight.
 

subway

be nice to the admin :D
Joined
Oct 4, 2006
Posts
6,542
Reaction score
1,038
Location
York PA
As far as the fuse goes into have run into them where they are cracked. They connect enough to check out ohm wise but won't pass any amount of current through them. They can be a pain to track down.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

F350camper

BOOST!
Joined
Jan 11, 2005
Posts
1,950
Reaction score
671
Location
USA
Now It won't start with the key again. I'm not sure what that's about
Is your clutch switch acting funny on this one? I know my 92 use to before I fixed things up. Had to have the pedal really mashed into the carpet to get it to light.
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,129
Location
Maryland
I currently have it jumped. I suppose it's possible the jumper came loose.
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,129
Location
Maryland
So I got the truck starting with the key again. I had chased wires and came to the conclusion that it had to be the ignition switch. New ignition switch, same thing. So I started at the solenoid and started working my way toward the key. Put 12v to it anywhere I could get to it. I got all the way to the clutch safety switch and 12v kicked it over from there. So in a fit of frustration I reached over and hit the key and it cranked.

LOL

Honestly I have no idea what the problem was. I suspect the transmission harness that has the jumper on it where the auto neutral safety switch would go. So now I have a new ignition switch and a couple old ones that are probably fine. [emoji849]

I think I have a solution to the drive shaft issue. Picked this up tonight.

You must be registered for see images attach


It is not a factory piece. The giveaway is the slip joint is different. It looks really clean and has been balanced. It was in an E4OD truck. It is really really close to the same length as mine. The front section looks to be about 1/4" longer than mine. The rear is really close to the same. I'm going to stick it in and see how it fits before I tear it down. Fingers crossed it's a drop in solution. Even if I have to have it trimmed, I'm far better off than I was I think.

Still need to figure out if the front shaft will work. Does the double cardan joint take a different yoke on the tcase?

Anyway, I think I'm about ready to finish putting the front end together.
 

IDIoit

MachinistFabricator
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2014
Posts
13,318
Reaction score
3,879
Location
commiefornia
my understanding is that the cardan is for the straight axle.
I could not find a 1330 CV yoke anywhere!
I took a rear slip yoke with the same splines had to bore the center so the nut would fit
then trimed the end to the correct length.
I did purchase a 1310 CV yoke that don't work lol
but the TTB don't use a CV(cardan)???

You must be registered for see images attach
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,129
Location
Maryland
Okay. So my truck is a SAS f250. I have seen reports both ways as to the drive shaft bolting in or not. So you convert the tcase to slip yoke? Didn't the drive shaft have a slip joint already? That seems peculiar. Oh well. I'll figure it out.
 

IDIoit

MachinistFabricator
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2014
Posts
13,318
Reaction score
3,879
Location
commiefornia
completely missed the SAS lol
my bad.
yes, that's a slip yoke, but has been machined to a fixed yoke.
it don't slide on the front output shaft, its bolted on, and yes the front shaft has a slip.
 

subway

be nice to the admin :D
Joined
Oct 4, 2006
Posts
6,542
Reaction score
1,038
Location
York PA
When I pulled the drive train out of my solid axle F350 it had a double cardian joint with a different yoke specific to that application. The yoke ears are taller with a deeper valley to allow clearance for the double cardian joint. Towcat snatched it up for those reasons when I was selling off my other stuff. Apparently those yoke are rare and you can't buy them new anymore.

Sounds like Brian found a work around.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

junk

Full Access Member
Joined
May 25, 2006
Posts
1,773
Reaction score
63
Location
Paullina, IA
I've always used an f250 shaft in my f-350. But I've also had a US gear in there so my front drive shaft is really long. I've never had a vibration or excelerated u-joint wear with my setup.
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,129
Location
Maryland
Front driveshaft seems to fit perfect.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


Plenty of room to the crossmember. Angle seems really reasonable. This will be a clean paint and install with new joints.

The rear looks like it needs to loose between 3/4"-1". I'll call them tomorrow and see what the deal there will be.

I am officially on the clock with rally reservations made. [emoji15]
 
Top