7.3 idi sounds like powerstroke

Fordfan90

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my 1990 that I replaced the pump in and had it time you can really hear the clatter of the motor in the cab sounds like it's cold. Would that mean the timing is off still?
 

IDIoit

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sounds like a powerstroke LOL
thanks for the laugh!

what did you time it to?
how did you time it?
is the engine cold?
is the high idle on?
what pump?
who rebuilt said pump?
what injectors?
whats the ambient temperature?
whats your mothers maiden name?
why is the sky blue?
 

Fordfan90

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Well I took it to a mechanic he timed it he put it towards the driver side and it smokes still. It's a pump from autozone just so I could get it running again. It makes the noise cold or warm and no the high idle won't kick on at all or even touch the throttle for that matter. Stock injectors are in it. My old idi didn't have this much clatter but this one has a lot. It never smooths out.
 

D_Fresh361

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sounds like a powerstroke LOL
thanks for the laugh!

what did you time it to?
how did you time it?
is the engine cold?
is the high idle on?
what pump?
who rebuilt said pump?
what injectors?
whats the ambient temperature?
whats your mothers maiden name?
why is the sky blue?

:rotflmao
 

shawn deere

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Miight be too advanced now. Lol.
If your doing it by ear you want it to quit 'hammering' when it warms up.
It can hammer with the cold timing advance. But should smooth out when it warms up.
If its too advanced itll burn up the glow plugs
Theres a happy medium
Itll take a little effort tho
 

pelky350

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Did he tell you what degree he set it to? Or method used to time it? Like black smoke or white or blue? Some basic small shops will time it just by ear and well who knows where they set it if that's the case. Most shops who do it with the right equipment would tell you or possibly put it on the work order on what they set the timing to. Maybe call the shop and ask?
 

Fordfan90

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Did he tell you what degree he set it to? Or method used to time it? Like black smoke or white or blue? Some basic small shops will time it just by ear and well who knows where they set it if that's the case. Most shops who do it with the right equipment would tell you or possibly put it on the work order on what they set the timing to. Maybe call the shop and ask?

Nope none of that I understand they don't sound the same but it's the only thing I could think of comparing it to. The smoke is black with grey/white when it's started. He just said he couldn't get the pump adjusted enough and he thought maybe a injector was causing a little miss fire at idle. The return lines leak a little so I don't know if it has anything to do with this?
 

pelky350

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If the return lines are leaking could be causing air to get into your fuel and that can cause many issues probably make it hard to time correctly but I'm not sure, the "power stroke rattle" is usually a sign of timing being too far advanced and the smoke when starting is likely caused by the air intrusion from the return lines leaking. Is defiantly fix the return lines/ o rings first the whole kit can Be got for 50 dollars or less and is fairly easy to do. Do this first and see what happens it may fix some of your problems if not at least you won't have leaking fuel anymore
 

Macrobb

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If the return lines are leaking could be causing air to get into your fuel and that can cause many issues probably make it hard to time correctly but I'm not sure, the "power stroke rattle" is usually a sign of timing being too far advanced and the smoke when starting is likely caused by the air intrusion from the return lines leaking. Is defiantly fix the return lines/ o rings first the whole kit can Be got for 50 dollars or less and is fairly easy to do. Do this first and see what happens it may fix some of your problems if not at least you won't have leaking fuel anymore
Anything on the return side might make it hard to /start/, but once the engine is running, after 30 seconds or so, it doesn't matter at all... because it's on the PRESSURE side of the lift pump.

If you are getting air after those 30 seconds, you've got a leak pre-lift-pump. Which means rubber hose loop that goes to the lift pump(likely), OR the lines going back to the switchover valve, OR the switchover valve itself(unlikely I think), OR where the lines attach to the fuel tank, OR the fuel pickup(likely)
 
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