Power loss lots of heat.

notenuftime said:

Sounds good. And one last thing I'm looking at getting a luk clutch kit and noticed that it calls for new slave and master cylinders. Am I reading this correctly?.

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I can't imagine a kit REQUIRING new master and slave cylinders, but I'm certainly not surprised if they reccomend replacing them. Heck if I had the money I'd replace them while it was apart. Gotta figure they may be 30 years old too. But no reason you need to replace them just to do the clutch.

notenuftime said:

Also the kits I'm looking at on rock auto there are three options. solid fly wheel which I don't think ill be replacing my fly wheel and I have factory duel mass. the other says 12in upgrade not sure if this will work?. an the other kit includes the fly wheel and I don't think I need to swap for a new one. can any one clarify which option I need. I f I'm not mistaken part # 07-076 is stock?

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I'm not certain, but I believe you need a different flywheel to run the 12" clutch. Is your flywheel making any weird noises? These dual mass flywheels don't last forever and some people have had catastrophic failures. That being said, if yours isn't making any weird noises, you should be fine keeping it. Just remember to get it resurfaced. Single mass flywheels tend to make for a noisy transmission, if you do have to replace it you can use either but from what I've read a dual mass would be better.

Sorry, I can't tell you which one is stock. Haven't changed mine yet!

Both have their places. I'll run a SMF every time.

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I agree on the SMF. Far less to go wrong. I've run one on one of my trucks for a good 5 years, and now the '93 is getting one in a week or two.

The only 'trick' to a SMF is to add an extra quart of ATF to your ZF transmission. It quiets down a lot of the noise without causing other issues.

edit:
BTW, the DMF flywheels have a couple of issues. One is that if you have to have it machined, you can't. So if it's in good shape, it's usable, but if it got torn up by the bad clutch... you need a new one. And they are much more expensive and hard to find.

Also, the springs inside floating around can break which results in clunking noises going from accel to decel, and at idle as the DMF is bouncing back and forth.

SMF is a nice, simple way to go. Here's a LuK 07-225 from RockAuto - $286 for the full kit:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...l,1124558,transmission-manual,clutch+kit,1993

After some thought I'm going with SMF kit from LUK and replacing my cylinders and fork. I should be good to go for quite some time.

Just to throw it out there any torque specs I should know when putting everything back together.

notenuftime said:

Just to throw it out there any torque specs I should know when putting everything back together.

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Torque it till the head snaps off, then back off half a turn.

According to my chilton manual:
10" and 12" clutch: 15-20 ft-lbs
11" clutch 20-29 ft-lbs.

I'd say, as a double-check - when you pull each different type of fastener, check the diameter. Look up generic torque-specs based on grade 5 and grade 10 for that diameter, and that should give you a ballpark number. If the number that you see in the book or elsewhere is outside those two numbers... double and triple check!

I ended up misreading once, and thought the pressure plate bolt was supposed to be 50 ft-lbs. Common sense said no, but I tried to follow the book, and wondered why the head snapped off.

If I remember, the 11" clutch was for the n/a trucks, and the 12" was for the factory turbo. Yes you can have the dual mass flywheel machined. The piece that the clutch plate touches, the same piece that the pressure plate bolts to, is bolted to the rest of the flywheel. Just unbolt it and that's the part that you take to the machine shop. I'd always put red Loctite on the threads when I put them back together. Just a word of advice, the dual mass flywheels are heavy so be ready when you remove it from the engine. I would take a short pry bar with me under the truck to use to remove it. It's kind of stuck on the crankshaft. I would move the transmission back far enough so I could actually sit up under the truck. That way, I could also use my knees to help hold up the flywheel when it comes loose. Also the flywheel bolts are through bolts and oil will drain out of the holes when you remove the flywheel.

IDIBRONCO said:

Yes you can have the dual mass flywheel machined. The piece that the clutch plate touches, the same piece that the pressure plate bolts to, is bolted to the rest of the flywheel. Just unbolt it and that's the part that you take to the machine shop.

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Hm, how come I've seen multiple references to them not being machinable then? Maby something with the overall thickness/weight?

I mean, it makes sense that you could just machine it, but...?

I don't know, but the machine shop we used did a lot for us.

Thanks for all the feedback. Should be a fun day in the shop, getting my parts order today.