Power loss lots of heat.

notenuftime · Feb 24, 2017

ok so going up a hill out of town 5th gear when I start to loose power giving it more gas resulted in more revs but no more power, made it to the top put it in 4th gave it some gas and same thing revs and no power at this point the temp really started to climb and I could smell something hot. I pulled over popped the hood and nothing looked out of the ordinary except the smell. this continued till I got to where I was going the truck sat for a couple hours then I started it up and drove home with out any issue. I can remember this happened to me before but very briefly pulling another hill then went away. I feel like the truck should have much more response that it does not really sure whats happening here but I sure didn't like that heat.

79jasper · Feb 24, 2017

That would be the clutch slipping.
No if/ands/or buts about it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

shawn deere · Feb 24, 2017

Indeed. New clutch time.
Options are:

go factory with the dual mass clutch - nice and quiet

Or go with a single mass upgraded one. Kinda growely but lives longer.

I believe thats the just of it

notenuftime · Feb 25, 2017

Was kinda thinking transmission or something. What's a good brand of clutch to get.

DaveBen · Feb 25, 2017

Luk is a great clutch. Check them out. Google "Luk Clutches".

IDIoit · Feb 25, 2017

south bend is an awesome clutch but very costly.

notenuftime · Feb 25, 2017

Was searching Rock auto breifly.

notenuftime · Feb 25, 2017

Looking at some clutch kits. Seems they depend on what Vin you got?

Macrobb · Feb 25, 2017

What matters is if your engine /block/ is a factory turbo block or a non-turbo block.
At this point in time, I would not trust the vin.

Open the hood, and right next to the IP gear cover on the driver's side is a little gap between there and the front of the intake manifold.
You should be able to see a flat area of metal block, probably covered in grease and oil.
Clean that, and you should see a serial number.
If the number starts with 7.3TU2U, it's a turbo block, and you need to make sure to get the flywheel that's for a Turbo truck(93-94).
If it starts with 7.3 D, it's a non-turbo 7.3, and you need to get the flywheel for a non-turbo truck(87-94).

It doesn't matter what VIN your truck has, because after 25 years, there's an even chance someone has swapped in a different motor. You need to get the right one, because the balance on the flywheel is different.

The actual clutch and pressure plate is the same between the different kits, depending on manufacturer.

And, just remember... if it is *not* a turbo block, don't worry about it. Non-turbo blocks will handle a mild turbo kit just fine(stock turbo, ATS, Hypermax or Banks).
The only time it actually matters is once you are looking at 30+ PSI of boost, 350+ HP at the wheels with a massive injection pump, custom turbo setup and headstuds.

notenuftime · Feb 25, 2017

Macrobb said:
What matters is if your engine /block/ is a factory turbo block or a non-turbo block.
At this point in time, I would not trust the vin.

Open the hood, and right next to the IP gear cover on the driver's side is a little gap between there and the front of the intake manifold.
You should be able to see a flat area of metal block, probably covered in grease and oil.
Clean that, and you should see a serial number.
If the number starts with 7.3TU2U, it's a turbo block, and you need to make sure to get the flywheel that's for a Turbo truck(93-94).
If it starts with 7.3 D, it's a non-turbo 7.3, and you need to get the flywheel for a non-turbo truck(87-94).

It doesn't matter what VIN your truck has, because after 25 years, there's an even chance someone has swapped in a different motor. You need to get the right one, because the balance on the flywheel is different.

The actual clutch and pressure plate is the same between the different kits, depending on manufacturer.

And, just remember... if it is *not* a turbo block, don't worry about it. Non-turbo blocks will handle a mild turbo kit just fine(stock turbo, ATS, Hypermax or Banks).
The only time it actually matters is once you are looking at 30+ PSI of boost, 350+ HP at the wheels with a massive injection pump, custom turbo setup and headstuds.

OK I'll check that out. Any thing I need to know when putting in one of these kits. Got a friend who has done lots of clutch work. Zf fives have any random need to knows.

Macrobb · Feb 25, 2017

Um... The slave cylinder is a pain to get back into place?

Might also want to get another clutch fork lever, depending on how worn the 'fingers' are. The ones I've pulled out of trucks were worn.

The transmission is heavy. You can(depending on your strength and/or floor quality) run a piece of pipe or 2x4 through the wind wings, pull back the carpet some in the middle, and run a slingof ratchet straps down through the gear shift hole(if you pull back the carpet a bit, there's another panel you can take out which gives you more like a 12" opening vs a 6" for the gearshift itself.

You can also use a jack, if you have a nice smooth floor to work on.

notenuftime · Feb 25, 2017

Macrobb said:
Um... The slave cylinder is a pain to get back into place?

Might also want to get another clutch fork lever, depending on how worn the 'fingers' are. The ones I've pulled out of trucks were worn.

The transmission is heavy. You can(depending on your strength and/or floor quality) run a piece of pipe or 2x4 through the wind wings, pull back the carpet some in the middle, and run a slingof ratchet straps down through the gear shift hole(if you pull back the carpet a bit, there's another panel you can take out which gives you more like a 12" opening vs a 6" for the gearshift itself.

You can also use a jack, if you have a nice smooth floor to work on.

Ya got a nice shop to do it hope all goes smooth.

Macrobb · Feb 25, 2017

Oh, actually, one thing to think about:
Make sure you've got a standard-depth 1/2" drive 3/4" socket, a bunch of wobble-extensions and an impact-grade universal(the ball type that can't tangle on you).
And an impact if you can.

It makes getting the upper transmission bolts off much easier, cause they are /way/ up there.

Other than a few potentially-rusted bolts (which come off really quickly with impact power), it's smooth sailing.

notenuftime · Feb 26, 2017

Sounds good. And one last thing I'm looking at getting a luk clutch kit and noticed that it calls for new slave and master cylinders. Am I reading this correctly?.

notenuftime · Feb 26, 2017

Also the kits I'm looking at on rock auto there are three options. solid fly wheel which I don't think ill be replacing my fly wheel and I have factory duel mass. the other says 12in upgrade not sure if this will work?. an the other kit includes the fly wheel and I don't think I need to swap for a new one. can any one clarify which option I need. I f I'm not mistaken part # 07-076 is stock?

Power loss lots of heat.

notenuftime

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So many wrenches, so little time...

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