79jasper
Chickenhawk
Won't really hurt to leave it plugged in.
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Water in intake
- Thread starter pafixitman
- Start date
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Did you drain off some engine oil BE#FORE turning the engine thru??? If not you might have started water going thru the bearings. But very happy to learn you could crank the engine thru a few times. That is a very good sign.
pafixitman
Registered User
It has never made a complete turn. Sadly in my haste to see if it turned, it do go from about 5 o'clock to 7 o'clock (end of ratchet handle as seen from under the truck) twice before I remembered to drain the oil. After draining the water, is when she had resistance to turn and I oiled her. I oiled her again this morning.
Now maybe it is just me being very stupid (well, I already proved that fact!), but I am just using a standard 1/2" ratchet handle. No breaker bar or anything. Everybody has a different opinion of too much force. Am I just being a wimp? Auto trans in park.
Now maybe it is just me being very stupid (well, I already proved that fact!), but I am just using a standard 1/2" ratchet handle. No breaker bar or anything. Everybody has a different opinion of too much force. Am I just being a wimp? Auto trans in park.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
I do not see a problem with a long breaker bar to turn over the engine. If ALL the glow plugs are out there is little chance you will break a piston or bend a rod from a cylinder filled with oil, rust or goo. Hand cranking the engine really can do no harm.
resistance is what it is, resistance.
using the ratchet is the best.
going to breaker bar is ok at this point
but the key position does not change.
if you force it, you will ruin your rings.
there are no GP's in it, you should almost freespin.
if there is hint of resistance, STOP. fill holes with MMO/ATF mix.
let sit so the **** can soak in. slowly rock the crank. (the idea is to use it as a scraper) but the key is PATIENCE. this may take a few days to a few weeks. if you are in too much of a hurry, the crap will go under your primary ring and jam everything tight. you don't want that result.
good luck
using the ratchet is the best.
going to breaker bar is ok at this point
but the key position does not change.
if you force it, you will ruin your rings.
there are no GP's in it, you should almost freespin.
if there is hint of resistance, STOP. fill holes with MMO/ATF mix.
let sit so the **** can soak in. slowly rock the crank. (the idea is to use it as a scraper) but the key is PATIENCE. this may take a few days to a few weeks. if you are in too much of a hurry, the crap will go under your primary ring and jam everything tight. you don't want that result.
good luck
pafixitman
Registered User
@towcat using the breaker bar and a mark on the balancer, I can easily move about an inch (measured on the balancer) and then I back it up, repeat a couple times. I am going to resoak and keep doing this through out the week with the thought being it will move a greater distance each day. How much mix do you recommend per hole?
She is not going to be running today so I have all week now to free it up.
Thanks for the advice and time frame reference. Any benefit to changing all of the oil at this point. I ran about a quart of oil out after draining the water.
She is not going to be running today so I have all week now to free it up.
Thanks for the advice and time frame reference. Any benefit to changing all of the oil at this point. I ran about a quart of oil out after draining the water.
i usually do a 50/50 mix of MMO/ATF and fill the hole as much as you can. there will be open valves, so do pay attention as you fill through the GP hole.
pafixitman
Registered User
3/4 of a complete rotation last night and another soaking. Tonight, I easily got 4 full rotations!
(Not using a breaker bar, just a ratchet handle with a 6" piece of pipe on the handle.
she did puke up some of the mix and/or water through the gp hole and intake. I cleaned that up and this weekend I will plug her in to get warm and run a few more rotations by hand before putting the plugs back in.
As usual, thanks for the advice. Next up on the "to do" is dash wiring!
(Not using a breaker bar, just a ratchet handle with a 6" piece of pipe on the handle.she did puke up some of the mix and/or water through the gp hole and intake. I cleaned that up and this weekend I will plug her in to get warm and run a few more rotations by hand before putting the plugs back in.
As usual, thanks for the advice. Next up on the "to do" is dash wiring!
That's good news Joe. Looking forward to the weekend "give her a start" report.
Heath
Heath
I would rewire the whole truck before I messed with that crap!
pafixitman
Registered User
Might come to that. PO had some 1990's alarm system, Darrin pulled the Banks gauge cluster and then reinstalled it when I bought the truck plus the brake controller. It is a mess under the column.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Before you install the glow plugs use the starter to crank the engine thru for a few seconds. That way any leftover "fluid" in the precups and cylinders might be forced out. Use rags to cover the gushers. 500 lbs of compression can shoot out plenty far. no need to oil down the roof of the shop..
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