A couple of quick questions.....

snicklas

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This is the Daily driver paid 650 bucks for it...

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My boy picked up this truck over the weekend. Not a bad truck for whet he paid... it does have a couple minor issues, one being it doesn't stop...... getting there, but had a rotted rear brake line (right behind the RABS valve under one of the little plastic clips) some rust an a return line leak.. (no not the normal one)..

It sat for a while, and we are getting the issues dealt with as time and money allow, but will hopefully have it stopping and going this weekend. Replacing the front calipers and pads (bleeders broke off, pad backing plates flaking due to sitting). The brake line to the rear has been replaced, and both rears and the RABS have been bleed. Calipers an pads this weekend, and it should stop on its own again.

It fires up well, the glow plugs work, and no real smoke after it starts.... it is a bit slow turning over, but it only has 1 battery, which will be remedied before he starts driving it.....

The questions, this surprised me a bit, but it's a 92 F-250 2wd E4OD truck. The front I-Beams appear to have king pins in them..... I thought by the OBS's they were ball joints.........

The return that is leaking is under the truck, it's one of the steel lines inside the frame rail, above the rear axle (all the returns under the hood are dry) any one know off hand what size rubber fuel line to splice in to fix.... I know the rubber lines on the truck are 3/8 and 5/16..... but I am just wanting to scab in and stop the leak...... unless we will have to go farther, and may just replace the line from the FSV to the rear tank. It only has a rear tank, but everything is there to replace the front tank except the tank, mount and filler. The QD's are even still on the line.... just "capped off" by visquine and hose clamps by the PO... and, as per the norm with these trucks, the shower head is broken in the rear tank..... so we need to drop the rear tank, and fix that..... and yes it will be a dropping of the tank...... this has been a northern truck all of it's life...... and I don't want to even think about removing the bed..... unless I had a replacement on hand.....
 

cpdenton

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Interesting on the I beams. My 92 2wd does have ball joints. Mine is a late 92 with the serpentine belt system though...
 

snicklas

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I'll snap a picture in a bit.... getting ready to leave.... but it's an early 92 but does have a serpentine belt.........
 

no mufflers

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my 91 2wd has ball joints also. maybe they have been swapped from an 86 era truck.
 

icanfixall

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All trucks fuel supply lines be it hard or rubber are 3/8. All trucks return lines be they rubber or hard are 5/16. Hope that helps.
 

snicklas

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OK, Maybe this is a ball joint...... just not what I'm used to..........

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cpdenton

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Yep. Ball joint. Not sure why they use that instead of one with a nut on top, but even our old ford ranger had that style upper ball joint.

Looks just like my truck too,except you have a lot more rusty stuff.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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That's a pretty good buy Sniklas. I would fix all the little stuff on the cheap, drive it around for as long as you can on only the rear tank, and when the crusties finally kill something expensive, part it out or swap the engine into something cleaner/newer/more cab/etc

I miss a 2wd rusty but trusty single cab. Actually I think I miss being young enough that all my **** fit in a single cab LOL
 

fields_mj

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I'd buy a new front tank and get that working before messing with the rear tank. Had to drop mine off the '93 due to a pin hole in the tank. That SUCKED! Having said that, if your open to replacing the fuel lines for it too, that might make it a lot easier. Either way, that's a great buy!
 

snicklas

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Well we got it running and stopping and he has been driving it here in town. It still needs a couple of things, the vacuum pump is weak and takes a bit too long to recover from using the brakes..... yes, it the pump, not a leak...... and it needs the lower, stationary idler pulley on the tensioner and a belt. No matter the temperature at this point, after the WTS light, it takes maybe 3 revolutions and its running. All the engine electrical seems to be in working order, the GP's and afterglow work as they should, and the cold advance and high idle work as they should. After fixing the return leak under the bed, it doesn't appear to leak anything..... E4OD seems to run out well, might play with the TPS in the future, but right now it's just getting the cob webs blown out...... also appears to be a 3.55 truck, so should run out well on the big road. Get some of the last few things shaken out and should be a decent truck........
 
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