E4OD leak and tranny pan bolt

mu2bdriver

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It will come out with the truck on the ground depending on how high your jack is when compressed. You will probably have to back up and go out from under the frame rail closer to the rear tire where the frame curves up. With my jack, I had to put a floor jack under the rear diff and raise it a couple inches to slide my ZF out to clear the bell housing. Bell housing being about the same shape, I'd expect it to be fairly similar for the auto.

Great. Thank you. I'll have to measure the height of the jack but if I were to put the truck on 1' stands just for ease of working underneath, would it be worth the effort? I also have full span running boards from the rear of the front wheel arch to the front of the rear wheel arch which makes ground clearance about 4-5" lower than the bare frame. It's time I undertake this issue because it looks like a bloodbath underneath. There's also a complete zf5 from a bricknose 350 for 1k.


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laserjock

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I'd say as long as your trans jack will reach with it up on the stands go for it. Mine is setting on F350 springs and block now so it sits a little higher than a stock 250 would. About 2" to be exact.
 

mu2bdriver

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Compressed, my jack is 9" and extended is 24".


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laserjock

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Here is what my transmission jack looks like. It's quite the ******* but works.

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The trans jack is bolted to the motorcycle lift. I have no idea what the lift height is or compressed height but fully extended on both jacks gets you almost to table height. [emoji6]

I use the hydraulic for coarse adjustment and the ratchet on the scissor for fine adjustment. The scissor lift also has a crude tilt on it.

F250 is a much higher authority when it comes to pulling and replacing slush boxes though.

LOL
 

tbrumm

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I used that same Harbor Freight trans jack that Laserjock shows in his pic when I pulled the E4OD on my F350 (without the cycle lift). As I recall, I was just barely able to wheel the jack and trans out from under my truck with the jack all the way down, The F350 4x4 sits pretty high though. You may need to jack the truck up and put some 4x4's or something under the tires to gain a little more clearance. The trans pull is totally "doable" though. @FORDF250HDXLT was my inspiration. I figured if he could R&R his trans all those times and not go completely crazy, I could probably get it done once or twice if needed:D
 

mu2bdriver

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OK. You guys are giving me the confidence to go for it. I'm going to pull it sometime next week once I get everything together. When replacing the seal, should I also get a spare bushing, pump to bolt washer seals, pump to case gasket and o-ring seal, and TC clutch teflon ring just in case or is there a pretty low likelihood of them being damaged?


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FORDF250HDXLT

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i thought you had discovered (in the "what have you done with your truck today" thread) a few days ago,that just a cooler line was leaking?

i would do one of these two things:

1.if the bushing hasn't walked.just replace the seal and put the trans back in.

2.if your going to pull the pump (not for the novice.well it is,but you better be willing to learn things the hard way lmao!) and install transgo shift kit parts in it,along with a new bushing)

well.there is a 3rd option and it's a wise one;

3.take the transgo kit and the trans - with pump left in place and say; here.put this kit and a new pump bushing in please.:D

if you do plan on pulling the pump,use extreme caution! if you try and pry the pump out,against that thin piece of the case you will ruin the whole transmission!!!!!
you don't need a slide hammer.you can pry it out but you need to first put a screw driver across the two main valve bodies you see,and then use that to pry against so no pressure goes on that thin cross piece.
AND!
make sure you have the trans standing on it's tail before removing the pump.
basically if you can frig up iv done it.:D i've never broken the case though! iv been just smart enough,to avoid ruining the thing entirely lol.
 
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mu2bdriver

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i thought you had discovered (in the "what have you done with your truck today" thread) a few days ago,that just a cooler line was leaking?

i would do one of these two things:

1.if the bushing hasn't walked.just replace the seal and put the trans back in.

2.if your going to pull the pump (not for the novice.well it is,but you better be willing to learn things the hard way lmao!) and install transgo shift kit parts in it,along with a new bushing)

well.there is a 3rd option and it's a wise one;

3.take the transgo kit and the trans - with pump left in place and say; here.put this kit and a new pump bushing in please.:D

if you do plan on pulling the pump,use extreme caution! if you try and pry the pump out,against that thin piece of the case you will ruin the whole transmission!!!!!
you don't need a slide hammer.you can pry it out but you need to first put a screw driver across the two main valve bodies you see,and then use that to pry against so no pressure goes on that thin cross piece.
AND!
make sure you have the trans standing on it's tail before removing the pump.
basically if you can frig up iv done it.:D i've never broken the case though! iv been just smart enough,to avoid ruining the thing entirely lol.

Those lines were leaking but the leak continues. I brought it to a car wash and washed the underside of the truck and let it dry off and it was pristine. By the time I drove it home, one mile, it was a bloodbath underneath and the consistent drip drip from the weep hole on the cover. I'm just wrapping up your log truck thread and am learning more than I ever expected I would. If I were to just do the front seal, how does it get seated in? I don't want to unnecessarily take a hammer to it or damage something else.


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tbrumm

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Pulling the trans is one of those "while it is out, I should ..........." events. While the trans is out, and if you have the funds, and if you have the time for the truck to be down, I would do as FORDF250HDXLT suggests: take the trans to a good trans shop and have them install the TRANSGO Tugger kit and do the mods to the pump and replace the bushing. If you are really feeling adventurous, have them take a peek at the internals too. They might catch something now that could become a bigger problem not too far down the road (like the center support). Not trying to turn this into a huge project for you (and it ain't my money), but this is worth thinking about. Again, it all depends on what your wallet and schedule can handle. If the trans is working fine other than the leak, replacing the seal and getting the truck back in service quickly is also understandable.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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if your bushing looks ok and you just want to replace the leaking seal,that's super easy.it takes a little bit to get it to seat even but you just tap around it and or use a large socket.i always enjoyed free tapping them in.it's like a little funny puzzle.get's me every time lmao! once you have it,so that it's going in straight,that's all she wrote.just keep tapping it in with the little ball peen hammer until it's making a good dead "thud" sound and that's it.
 

mu2bdriver

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Thank you guys. Your knowledge and advise is really invaluable. The truck shifts great and I don't carry heavy loads long distances. The heaviest it will ever see are green bucked logs moved 1 mile to my house or moving a sled around in the bed. My problem is timing: no garage and wintertime approaching. If it were six months earlier I wouldn't worry about it because I'd have plenty of good weather ahead of me. I think I'll just do a seal replacement and see what comes of it over the course of the next six months. To make matters worse, a guy just offered me a salvage bricknose f350 idi, banks turbo, zf5, and a bunch of new parts for $500.

ETA: This is a second vehicle so it's not necessary to have it ready immediately but I can't have a spare vehicle not be road ready for whatever could happen.

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mu2bdriver

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I'm pretty much ready to change the pump seal and just waiting for a relatively nice day to get it done. I haven't had the need for the truck this winter so it worked out luckily for me.

One question on re-seating the torque converter: I plan to do the repair with it horizontal or slightly angled rearward, not vertical if I can help it. I've read that you push and turn and that there is a positive feel to when it's in place. Is it really that straightforward or is there more magic to it?

Thanks in advance.


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icanfixall

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Not any magic at all. When the converter is seated correctly you can mearsure across the bell housing and the converter will be even or slightly low of the housing. IT MUST NOT BE STICKING OUT... Also when you have the bolts to the bell housing hand tight the converter MUST be free of the flexplate.
 
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