Been doing some thinking about my Turbo

tgomes

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A few months ago I picked up a 6.9 motor with the banks non wastegated setup downpipe up pipe gauges etc with rotomaster turbo the whole kit still on the motor. My problem is that while looking it over I can see that the up pipe and down pipe will not fit around my bellhousing. I have a zf-5 and whatever transmission the 6.9 had was a manual but obviously not a zf-5 it's obvious by looking at the setup on the 6.9 that the pipes were not meant to fit around a zf. So if I did choose to use this setup I would have to customize the plumbing. My concern is I will go through this whole project and it won't produce the numbers or performance I want. I've been told/ read that the kit has a t-3 flange and I could stuff a hx35 in there. So I guess my question is should I just offload what I have and stick around and try to find a factory kit to build off of or a banks sidewinder? Or do I go through with the install with what I have and if I'm not happy stuff a hx35 in there and be happy? Someone please sway me in a direction to take. I'm split down the middle.
 

shawn deere

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How much power are you looking for? Personally i wouldn't recommend more than 12 pounds of boost
Once pressure gets over 10# the temperature rise gets real. IMO more than 12# you need an intercooler.
Also more pressure you can blow head gaskets. These have 22.5 to 1 compression. A powerstroke has 17.5 to 1, they can build more boost and are built for it.
If you want real power your just barking up the wrong tree, but to each their own, good luck!
 

shawn deere

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As far as plumbing it, neither sounds fun. Lol
I have a factory ats turbo setup with a zf5 and its tight. And currently has a bunch of exhaust leaks.
 

Macrobb

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So... The T3 plumbing is just fine. The problem is how much boost your engine can handle - a 6.9 without studs is good for /maby/ 12 PSI, with studs about 20 PSI. 7.3 without studs about 20 PSI, with studs... somewhere north of 45 PSI.

I suspect that if you get 10-ish PSI, you can probably run in the 210-ish RWHP range, compared to about 110 RWHP stock.

A TE06H off a wastegated Banks setup is good for about 15 PSI max with the wastegate locked out; you can adjust the max with the wastegate, though. It's a decent enough turbo for a 6.9 build or basic 7.3 build, though not for a 'performance' 7.3 build'.

The only downside to the TE06H specifically is that it's harder to find parts for that turbo. You can buy the entire center 'cartridge', and I've heard of a couple of places being able to rebuild them, but it's not commonplace.
On the other hand... I abused my (already used) TE06H for a good 4 years, and it still doesn't have any noticeable play.
(Note that on my performance 7.3 build, I went from that to a BorgWarner S360 with a .63 AR T3 exhaust housing. That thing spools! It's a far better turbo for a 110CC or bigger pump; the TE06H is fine for a 90CC stock pump.)
 

tgomes

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So... The T3 plumbing is just fine. The problem is how much boost your engine can handle - a 6.9 without studs is good for /maby/ 12 PSI, with studs about 20 PSI. 7.3 without studs about 20 PSI, with studs... somewhere north of 45 PSI.

I suspect that if you get 10-ish PSI, you can probably run in the 210-ish RWHP range, compared to about 110 RWHP stock.

A TE06H off a wastegated Banks setup is good for about 15 PSI max with the wastegate locked out; you can adjust the max with the wastegate, though. It's a decent enough turbo for a 6.9 build or basic 7.3 build, though not for a 'performance' 7.3 build'.

The only downside to the TE06H specifically is that it's harder to find parts for that turbo. You can buy the entire center 'cartridge', and I've heard of a couple of places being able to rebuild them, but it's not commonplace.
On the other hand... I abused my (already used) TE06H for a good 4 years, and it still doesn't have any noticeable play.
(Note that on my performance 7.3 build, I went from that to a BorgWarner S360 with a .63 AR T3 exhaust housing. That thing spools! It's a far better turbo for a 110CC or bigger pump; the TE06H is fine for a 90CC stock pump.)


The non wastegated 6.9 kits were sold in respect to different transmissions. From looking at the clearance of the downpipe of the kit installed on a motor sitting in the garage it's obvious that if it were sitting on my truck the downpipe would be halfway on my zf5 and the same would go for the up pipe. So the plumbing is not fine.

I am not looking to make 1000hp out of it I am aware of its capabilities. What I am not aware of is the performance of one of these motors running the non wastegated banks kits on a 7.3. That is what I'm unsure of. I cannot decide if it will be a waste of time getting it to fit or if I should wait and try to find a new style sidewinder kit wastegated. I just don't want to go through the agrivation of installing the non wastegated kit and not be satisfied because it sucks. I'm not saying it sucks I'm saying I have never seen one on a running truck to know how it will preform compared to a wastegated kit.

Either way I need to do my cab mounts all around and fix the driver side which caved in. Attempting to do a turbo install before that would give me the same satisfaction of eating glass.
 

Macrobb

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The non wastegated 6.9 kits were sold in respect to different transmissions. From looking at the clearance of the downpipe of the kit installed on a motor sitting in the garage it's obvious that if it were sitting on my truck the downpipe would be halfway on my zf5 and the same would go for the up pipe. So the plumbing is not fine.

I am not looking to make 1000hp out of it I am aware of its capabilities. What I am not aware of is the performance of one of these motors running the non wastegated banks kits on a 7.3. That is what I'm unsure of. I cannot decide if it will be a waste of time getting it to fit or if I should wait and try to find a new style sidewinder kit wastegated. I just don't want to go through the agrivation of installing the non wastegated kit and not be satisfied because it sucks. I'm not saying it sucks I'm saying I have never seen one on a running truck to know how it will preform compared to a wastegated kit.
What I'm saying is that all of the kits use T3 flanges and plumbing that is equivalent. You can always stick a wastegated turbo on non-wastegated plumbing.

Get plumbing that works for you, then test your turbo out. If it doesn't work, get a different one!

You might need to do some adapting on the down pipe side, depending on the turbo, but that's all doable.

If you can't fabricate stuff, or aren't able to take it to an exhaust shop, then yes - sell what you have and find a kit that fits as-is.
 

no mufflers

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I think on the gated banks turbo it would spool faster. I would see that a better part. it might also make more boost. there is a reason banks made a new turbo kit.
 

shawn deere

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Mine dont spool till 2k rpm and tops out at 6psi. It runs like a ****. Going to fix exhaust leaks in the next week or two and possibly a wicked wheel 2 compressor wheel install.
Ill report when its done, the PO must have maxed out the pump also, it smokes like crazy
 

77f250diesel

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I do, in stock form I didn't see any appreciable boost till 1400 rpm and it peaked at 10-12 lbs. boost.
Russ (typ4) did the compressor mod, larger wheel and machined housing which made a huge difference along with 4" exhaust I'm seeing 2-3 lbs. off idle and easily peg my 15 lb. boost gauge.
I like the ng. Banks and can't foresee any reason to replace it.
 

Shadetreemechanic

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What gears to you have in your truck? The turbo you have will spool late, but if you have 4.10s you might like that because you will be running in that range anyway. I have 3.55s and a zf and like the factory 093 wastegated because it spools much lower in the rpm range. I rarely spend any time above 2500 RPMs.
 

tgomes

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What gears to you have in your truck? The turbo you have will spool late, but if you have 4.10s you might like that because you will be running in that range anyway. I have 3.55s and a zf and like the factory 093 wastegated because it spools much lower in the rpm range. I rarely spend any time above 2500 RPMs.


Yeah I have 4.10's and it does rev high all the time anyway so you make a good point.


I do, in stock form I didn't see any appreciable boost till 1400 rpm and it peaked at 10-12 lbs. boost.
Russ (typ4) did the compressor mod, larger wheel and machined housing which made a huge difference along with 4" exhaust I'm seeing 2-3 lbs. off idle and easily peg my 15 lb. boost gauge.
I like the ng. Banks and can't foresee any reason to replace it.

Ok so it doesn't sound terrible. I have no problem running something that can work well. Like everyone says it's still better than NA. Not to mention the truck is at 370 and I doubt she has seen new injectors in a long time. What are you running for a transmission?
 
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