Which tools to get for a ball joint job

fields_mj

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2009
Posts
847
Reaction score
5
Location
Brazil, Indiana
Okay, so I've opted to do my own ball joints this time on my 2000 crew cab. I've got next week off, so if I can get some dry weather, I should be able to get it knocked out in addition to the other projects I have scheduled. Since this truck is new to me at 170K miles, I'm planning on having to do this job again at some point, so I'm planning on just buying the right tools for the job. Since I've been working on my IDI for years now, I have some tools, but it looks like there are specific tools I need for doing these ball joints that I don't have. I've had bad experience renting tools from places (bent, damaged, or otherwise defective), and I'm saving enough to warrant buying what I need (I think). So the next question is what do I actually need? My biggest concerns with buying the tools are 1-buying a tool/tool set that won't fit my truck, and 2-buying a cheap tool that will break before it does the job needed. Since everything on this truck is bone stock, and I'm in the rust belt, that last one is a big deal as I've destroyed more than one midgrade tool trying to free up something that was rusted solid.

Things I could use advise on:
Pickle fork: I have access to one. I also have access to an air hammer. Is it worth getting the separator attachment (About $20) for the hammer to make the job easier?

Large Gear Puller: It looks like the hub assembly can be pretty challenging to get off. Would it be worth buying a large puller, or is it best just hammer the 4 studs out from the back side?

Pitman arm puller: Is there one brand that's better than the other? Most of them that I've seen are in the $20 price range.

Ball joint Press: These seem to come in kits, and the price varies a LOT. Any suggestions on a decent one that will have right parts for this job?

Snap ring pliers: I've used lots of these over the years working on various pieces of equipment at work, but most of them belonged to someone else, and they were always smaller sets. Some have been excellent, some have been utter crap. All the ones I've bought have been crap, so I'd love to hear of a recommendation on a good set that will be big enough to get the snap rings out of the hub.

Oxy/Acetylene: The last set I worked on (15+ years ago) we ended up having to heat them up to get them out. I've got a small portable set up, but it's been empty for a few years. Would it be worth the $100 to get them filled again?

My limited experience with ball joints is that they can be a REAL PITA to get out, so I'm seriously contemplating a trip over to Harbor Freight to add a 12 Ton Shop Press to my tool collection as well, but I'll hold off on that for now. If I run into problems, it's an hour drive round trip, and at that point I could probably stand to take a break anyway.

Thanks!
Mark
 

snicklas

6.0 and Loving It!!
Staff member
Joined
Aug 7, 2006
Posts
6,164
Reaction score
2,342
Location
Greenfield, Indiana
One big thing...... DO NOT BUY CHEAP BALL. JOINTS!!!!!!!

I had to do ball joints on my Excursion, unexpectedly one weekend when I was doing other work. All I could find was the Advance cheapies. That was less than 5000 miles ago. My truck is now sitting in the driveway in a "use only if necessary" state, as these new ball joints are worse than the ones I replaced. I am going to use XRF joints as they seem to hold up the best on these trucks.

The job isn't too bad. I did front axle U-Joints, vacuum seals, ball joints, brakes and parts running took about 12 hours.......

Also, make sure the ball joint press has a deep adapter. The ball joints on these trucks are really big......
 

fields_mj

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2009
Posts
847
Reaction score
5
Location
Brazil, Indiana
My plan is to use Spicer ball joints only because I've always had really good results with their U-Joints. I'd be open to suggestions on which ones to use, but I'd like to find something better than MOOG. I've never had them make it past 50K miles, where as the OEM equipment seems to last 100K+

The job doesn't seem like it will be too bad depending on how badly my parts are frozen, rusted, or just plain stuck.

You're recommendation on the Ball Joint Press is EXACTLY why I'm looking for advise. I have no idea how deep of an adapter I need.
 

greenskeeper

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2013
Posts
995
Reaction score
202
Location
PA
soak everything with penetrating oil multiple times leading up to doing the job. Know a lot of good four letter words.
 

snicklas

6.0 and Loving It!!
Staff member
Joined
Aug 7, 2006
Posts
6,164
Reaction score
2,342
Location
Greenfield, Indiana
I will post a link to the ball joints I plan on using. I've read thr one from Advance has the adapter big enough...... When I did mine I was in a buddies shop and used his. It didn't have all/big enough adapter so we uh........ Improvised.......
 

fields_mj

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2009
Posts
847
Reaction score
5
Location
Brazil, Indiana
Neither the penetrating oil, nor the four letter words helped much, but a little bit of propane heat did wonders :)

Oh, and for the record, the portion of the knuckle does NOT come out using a 15/16" pickle fork. Not even close. I have a 1-1/8" pickle fork on the way since NOBODY seems to have one on the shelf. That makes perfect sense, what with 4x4 pick-ups NEVER needing ball joints replaced....
 

DaveBen

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2010
Posts
1,916
Reaction score
633
Location
Ukiah, Ca
I have had an 1 1/8 pickle fork and this works great. Been over 20 years since I did the front end joints on mine. That and two trucks ago.
 

fields_mj

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2009
Posts
847
Reaction score
5
Location
Brazil, Indiana
Quick update for anyone who finds this in a search. A MUST have tool for this job is a 1-1/8" pickle fork for an air hammer, and of course a decent air hammer.

I ordered a 5pc kit off Amazon that included a handle for attaching to an air hammer, as well as a manual handle where I'm the hammer. I had both knuckles stripped down to the point where I just needed to free the ball joints to get them off. It was 13 deg in my drive way, and I really didn't want to drag out my air compressor (and all the bicycles and crap between it and the garage door) if I could do it manually. Installed the manual handle on the 1-1/8" fork, grabbed a 3lb hammer, and had the lower ball joint free in just a minute or two. GREAT! I went around to the Pass side, and it was a different story. I sat there on the icy gravel for 20 min beating on that fork and no joy. Tried heating with a propane torch and then beating on it. Still no joy. Finally gave up and got my air compressor out. Dad had given me his air hammer (1970's Snap-On model), so I swapped the handle out and gave it a go. I kid you not, I laid the knuckle on the ground 30 sec later, and got up thinking DUH! Should have done it this way to begin with...
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
91,217
Posts
1,128,504
Members
24,045
Latest member
Ramtough01

Members online

Top