Project Big Red

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,129
Location
Maryland
If this is the worst that happens in the process of assembly, I'll be thrilled.
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,129
Location
Maryland
I got my new pass side inner fender in today. Not super enthused. But it's new and has all the mount points in tact.

I went to stick the down pipe in.

You must be registered for see images attach


Finally got it in the hole but it really doesn't fit. I don't know what has changed. Yes I added the wrap but I had a good bit of clearance before. Not sure what I'm going to do. I slid the cab back a hair. I can remove the wrap I guess but I hate to. I am considering a 1/2" cab lift in the front. I don't need much. I got my IC pipe. I may need to massage the pipes some more. I think they may be too tall in the front and one pipe may be occupying the space for the top radiator hose so I need to get it in there. I want to get the DP situation sorted before I hang the fenders back on.

Ugh.
 

F350camper

BOOST!
Joined
Jan 11, 2005
Posts
1,950
Reaction score
671
Location
USA
I cant tell where the clearance issue is from the pic, but are you saying the dp needs to rotate back slightly?
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,129
Location
Maryland
I didn't get a good pic. I was too irritated. It's pinched where the body seam would be. I actually shaved that off and welded it up all the way across. I should have frenched it back in while I had the chance and it was easy.
 

F350camper

BOOST!
Joined
Jan 11, 2005
Posts
1,950
Reaction score
671
Location
USA
if you decide to raise the cab a hair, and you dont want to make your own spacers, here's a good 'stack and tack' option

https://www.mcmaster.com/#91081A040

ess14079761704971-jpg.52018



ess14079761946581-jpg.52017
 

Greg5OH

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2011
Posts
2,373
Reaction score
42
Location
MI
^those are awesome. I got them holding my mounts together from the bottom since its impossible to find the OEM super duty ones unless they are take offs!
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,129
Location
Maryland
After a little thought and experimentation, I think a 1/2" cab lift on the front is the quickest, least invasive fix. I jacked the cab up and stuck a couple wooden wedges in there and I now have clearance. They are a little thicker than 1/4" but not 3/8 so I think at 1/2" I'll be more than good. As tall as the thing is, what another 1/2". I'll toss spacers under the core support too and should be good to go.
 

junk

Full Access Member
Joined
May 25, 2006
Posts
1,773
Reaction score
63
Location
Paullina, IA
If you tilt the cab a 1/2" in the front will the body seem bent in the middle between the bed and cab? Body lines not seeming straight down the side? Possibly bed to cab gap not being consistent top to bottom? Not trying to be a fly in the ointment.

Also what about beating the hell out of the fire wall? Big pry bar?
 

IDIoit

MachinistFabricator
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2014
Posts
13,318
Reaction score
3,879
Location
commiefornia
If you tilt the cab a 1/2" in the front will the body seem bent in the middle between the bed and cab? Body lines not seeming straight down the side? Possibly bed to cab gap not being consistent top to bottom? Not trying to be a fly in the ointment.

Also what about beating the hell out of the fire wall? Big pry bar?

Mike, I second this. not only will you not be happy with the alignment of the cab/box, and the body line,
once you decide to raise the back also, it may cause more clearance issues with the DP.
if you do decide to lift the cab, lift the entire cab & core support the same.

this is just thoughts to not only help you now, but in the future. we know your meticulous, and we don't want you to have to re-do this again.

as I said, prybar. the firewall is more forgiving than you think.

also, when you cut and welded up the bottom pinch weld, did you re-seam seal on the inside?
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,129
Location
Maryland
I hadn't thought about that. Hmm. This is why I talk to you guys. Well, I guess some more pry bar it is. No I have not sealed the inside again. Figured I'd do that as I put in the sound deadener and carpet. 1/2" might be enough to cause grief with the cab to body clearance although I already have to shim the bed to get it to match the cab line. Found that out when I was fitting for the cab corners. I may need to go find a tougher pry bar. Do you think a slide hammer from the inside would get me anywhere?
 

IDIoit

MachinistFabricator
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2014
Posts
13,318
Reaction score
3,879
Location
commiefornia
a slide hammer will put "pimples" in the sheet metal, and wont do much to the pinchweld firewall/floor, where id assume you need it most.

id hate to sound like a broken record, but making a prybar with a "shoehorn" is truly your best option.
instead of a prybar, use a piece of 2" 1/4 wall pipe a rag against the back of the engine. and use the engine for leverage.
obviously the DP needs to come out.

another option is to use a portapower if you have one. but this is kinda hard to do by yourself, I usually have my son help with the hydraulics, while I place the jaws.
makes those sleepless nights and crappy diapers worth while :D
 

subway

be nice to the admin :D
Joined
Oct 4, 2006
Posts
6,542
Reaction score
1,038
Location
York PA
Would it be worth squeezing the down pipe a little. I have some tight clearance for my down pipe and am thinking of pulling it out and putting it in my hydraulic press between to boards. I was going to try to make it a slight oval to gain some clearance. I will loose some cross section but not much.

Can you push you motor mounts down more?

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,129
Location
Maryland
I thought about doing that. Looked the motor mounts over too. Not much to be had there if anything.

So the problem with the prybar solution is that all I have to pry against there really is the Banks up pipe. I'm not thrilled with the idea because it essentially bolts to the exhaust manifold and a couple bolts on top. To remove it is pulling the turbo and everything and I'd rather not do that. I'm thinking I may drill a hole and make a puller out of a piece if large electrical conduit and try to pull it from the inside. If I have to I'll cut it and re-weld from the inside. Just starting to think about stuff. Under the weather so nothing happening tonight anyway. But worst case I got a big spud bar lined up from my buddies place. Something will give if I have to go that route. I'll bolt the cab down tight first so it's not moving around so much. Ran into that last time where I was lifting the cab a bit prying against the firewall.

I will persevere.

In retrospect, shaving that lip was a mistake. The weld actually made it really strong. I wailed on it with a 4lb sledge for a while when I first started clearancing for the pipe.
 

yARIC008

Drives really slow
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Posts
1,677
Reaction score
80
Location
Orlando, FL
When the engine is under load doesn't if shift a bit? Is that going to cause the downpipe to hit the cab even with 1/4" - 3/8" clearance?
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,129
Location
Maryland
Hence why I need to deal with this. I don't consider this a wait and see situation. I don't know how much I need. I figure with good motor mounts, it won't be too bad. There will be clearance when I'm done. Not playing around this time.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,198
Posts
1,128,134
Members
24,024
Latest member
Bugoo

Members online

Top