Rear axle set up

austin92

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Ok, I'm ready to install my new 10.25. The axle came out of a 94 f350 which calls for 85w-140. Eaton says to run manufacturer recommended weight. The truetrac prefers conventional oil with out limited slip additive. Eaton says anything gl-5 rated is fine but synthetics and limited slip additives decrease the torque biasing aggressiveness. Everything 85w-140 I can find is either synthetic or has limited slip additive in it. What would you do?


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austin92

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Is that a brand or when they say it can be used for makeup or top off? I saw that redline has 2 different bottles. They have a 80w-140 that I think doesn't have the limited slip additive but my god it's expensive. Autozone brand doesn't mention anything about having or not having the additive. The employee told me all house brand oils are STP and conventional. I've never used a STP product... Why is it so hard to find a dam gear oil? Lol


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rustygold

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Advanced auto has some just top off gear oil last time I looked.

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austin92

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I talked to the guy at advanced for probably 45 minutes trying to find the gear oil I need. We both looked at every name brand bottle and searched online


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austin92

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I called eaton. Even though Lucas contains ls additive that's what they recommend


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austin92

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You guys know if the axle tubes are the same diameter allowing me to use my existing u bolts?


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austin92

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Well, the 10.25 is finally under my truck. Existing u bolts worked but my god were they rusted on there! I've been soaking everything in pb blaster for nearly 2 weeks now. Probably spent 3 hours taking the nuts off the u bolts. Put a nice bend in my Pittsburg 24" breaker bar and toasted a craftsman ratchet. No wonder my dewalt cordless impact wouldn't budge them. Did manage to shear one of the u bolts right off at the nut though lol! That's the only thing stopping me from driving the truck. Need a dam nut to go on the u bolt I had laying around.... also, turns out the 94 f350 I got the axle out of had a 1330 ford big cap u joint yoke, not a 1350. Ordered a conversion joint for no reason lol. I placed an order for a diff temp gauge last night to keep an eye on the new bearings and gears. I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to have my drive shaft shortened. The new pinion is slightly longer and at full droop, it doesn't look like the the splines on the slip yoke have much room to compress. I'm going to be calling drive line shops in the morning. Can't wait to see how the truck drives going to 3.73s from 3.07s, especially after the break in period :). Do you guys have a preferred method to gear break in over the 500 easy miles then change the oil? Should I do a towing break in?


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austin92

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The 5/8 u bolt I sheared

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The one missing nut stopping me from driving the truck lol

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10.25 looks huge compared to the Dana 61 that used to rest there


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austin92

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Well, being used to 4 links I might have jumped the gun on thinking my drive shaft would need shortened. The shackles swing the axle backwards when the leaf springs compress compared to a 4 link shoving the drive shaft forward as the coils compress. Blew my mind lol


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