Did the drain test as described earlier but used a volt meter and it shows 12.5 volts with everything off is that the correct way to do a draw test?
Won't work. You are not measuring voltage, you are measuring amps with the testlight in a crude manner that works without messing around with a meter and scratching your head on what reading is good and what is not good.
When you put the testlight from the battery to the disconnected terminal you are creating a "bridge" of sorts. Any current passing from the battery to the trucks electrical system with the key off has to pass through this bridge. Radio memory always draws a little bit, along with a clock memory, the computer memory if you have a E4OD, etc. All this draws current across your testlight bridge, but it' not enough to light up the bulb in the testlight. A bad diode in the alternator, a domelight somewhere that is on, etc. does draw enough current through the testlight bridge to light up the testlight.
Very simple way to determine if you have a problem or not. If you do want to use a meter, you will have to configure your meter for amps(usually have to move some leads around) and then hook it like a bridge like the testlight. Like I mentioned, you will always get a draw on most vehicles, 70ma or .070 amps is a good number to use, you should be below that number.