Looks OK to me. There is an O-ring that seals it up. As long as the O-ring is not visible and the snail is not misaligned so hard that the O-ring doesn't make continuous contact you're good to go.
I'm going through the same issue you are right now although I don't use WMO.
It sounds like we've explored similar options.
I just received:
Delphi Automotive Fuel Pump - MF0050
Certainly China made and half of the sites list it for Diesel and the others show it as a Gas application. I decided...
I'm in the same boat for mechanical fuel pump issues. My replacement lasted 10k miles. I swapped the 200k unit back on...it is now dripping from the case halves.
Any suggestions on a reliable mechanical lift pump?
@Black dawg
Do you have a pic of the stop that you're referring to?
I recently replaced my shoes, wheel cylinders and the DS park brake cable and my shoes continue to over tighten.
What did I do wrong?
I would also check your local options. If that does not checkout then try to find a good running used 7.3 to drop in.
Finally I would give Promar a shot.
I had several issues with Promar but all is well for now.
Sounds like normal operation.
My lower tech Kenwood does the same thing and has to boot back up after engine start is accomplished.
I make a habit of turning the deck off prior to shutting the truck down. If that is not possible for your unit, I'd think the only solution would be to isolate...
The '94 has needed a few items lately...at least it is before winter hits .
My 3rd Moose IP began the ol hot start routine and would not make full fuel nor did the advance work correctly. I took a junkyard NA IP that I had been sitting on and had it rebuilt locally. The builder maxed her out...
Dang, sorry to hear that. I was hoping for an easy fix.
I've used several wraps of glass cloth tape on my squeaky exhaust joints under the truck where the muffler should be with success but the vibration and heat is not as extreme there.
3rd set of 285/75-16 on this truck. I had to space out the front bumper about .25-.50 to keep it from rubbing on the lower corners while cornering with a load.
That rad hose looks original from Ford and the external leak is probably from the clamp on the worn out radiator hose where it connects to the cast outlet.
As for the cooling system pressurizing, I'd try the head bolt re-torque.
Any fault codes? I don't know but I'm not sure if they actually have thermal shut down protection...it may be getting hot but is vapor locking.
Fuel filter ok? Can you reposition the fuel line routing?
Try some 5-30 synthetic oil?
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