I'm sure it won't make much of a difference but I ran the hot side to the front and cold to the rear on that ic because in my mind the air from the clutch fan hitting the cold side of the ic may heat it up.
There's always lots of oil in the intake of these things. It's fine. I used red RTV on my snail, let it setup for an hour before tightening the bolt down. I can't remember how hard that is to get off without an intercooler but I recall it was a pain.
You can get new an fittings for them, or barb fittings to connect hose. One is 5/16 the other 3/8 I believe. I actually removed them and just ran rubber diesel rated hose to the metal nipples with double clamps. Never had an air intrusion issue. I saw them as air leak risk when I replaced the tanks.
That's much safer for the engine, i thought he was cleaning engine and isolating radiator. I still wouldn't use uninhibited hydrochloric on brass. It could damage the solder. though if you're going through all that with the cost of coolant and risk for a leak I'd just forfeit the $200 for a new...
It would be really bad for your oil cooler where there are copper are aluminum together and generally not good for your copper block heater. You can clean copper with hydrochloric but it would usually contain a corrosion inhibitor like rodine to limit copper corrosion. Store bought muriatic...
I can't remember which bushing is which. I did all 4. The big ones that fall out under the cab are easy the smaller ones are harder that bolt to the kmember. I believe I hole sawed the rubber out then used an air chisel to crush the bushing sleeve inward to get it out. Then used a balljoint...
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