I would like the same as my fabrics is beginning to not stick to the foam anymore. I would really like to have the perforated vinyl style of an XL with the insulation still.
Midwest transmissions has decent rebuilts. You might also try a new slave cylinder. From what I understand there is no adjustments to make but it's remove and replace. A friend did that because his wasn't disengaging and shifted hard. Though if you are interested in selling I would like to know...
That is my plan to eventually ditch my 4.10s for 3.73. In Oregon our speed limits are topped out at 70 so I can hit that while spinning 2000 with 285/75r16 tires (theoretically). If I lived in a state that was higher limits I would likely do what @Macrobb said and run 3.55 with more power to...
I would toss flowkooler as a last option, only because pump replacement is more intense. We use their pump on a spreader buggy, which spends it's day going slow with a full load in the engine and their pump really does the job of maintaining 190 degrees in a 460. When I need a pump I'm going...
Southwest wheel company is a great resource but I would personally talk to neighborhood tire shops and look for dually take offs. Junkyards are great also, we located a complete set of Mopar 17 inch dually steels that way. Happy hunting
And keep in mind there were no factory 4x4 dually's until 1999. Again from what I gleaned, and this is not written in stone, the 5.15" backspacing typically was designed for a 215 width. The 5.35"(steel) or 5.40"(aluminum) would be on a wheel for a 235 width which would have been sold with...
When we were dually tire shopping and comparing wheels, it seems that Ford used either 5.15" or 5.35" backspacing on the steel wheels. The aluminum Alcoa's are 5.40".
I have a few friends that run duallys and they've had luck with spacers, but typically a 255 will squeeze togther without it. If you've already attempted to get them to not rub, the other solution is finding a different dish wheel. We have a '91 Dodge running 255/85r16 BFG KM2 without a spacer...
The comparison dyno test is here. This is a bit old, so I have no idea how factual it is still today. I'll let the people who make the cams speak to it, but it is a starting point.
Either it was built to haul a dozer or excavator. We have a home brew trailer which is a tilt deck over two sets of dually axles running 22.5" wheels. It's huge, ugly and hauls around a 450B deere dozer or 1500 gal water tank nicely. I agree that ugly needs love, but only if it works for you...
If you're after a manual 4 door one ton that works well I would advise against anything with the 5.8 or 6.8 v10 with 3 valves per cylinder. The 5.8 is a bit disappointing in terms of power and I haven't seen the 3 valve Fords hold up long term. But the 5.4 with a manual and the right gears...
For what it's worth when I replaced my tie rod, the new one came with a flat rubber bushing to be the spacer where the drag link connects. It's not the same as what was built here, but the principal works similar. The dead spot roll over disappeared, so I would assume the FIX will accomplish...
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