I assume you are talking about the long bolts that go through the the timing cover to the block. You'll probably end up pulling the timing cover, I've done this a few times and they have always come out of the block fairly easy for me once I got the timing cover pried off the broken bolts...
The blower resistor is on the bottom of the AC housing just left of the blower motor, it has a connector with four wires going to it. The resistor is in the ground side of the blower circuit, it should be easy to bypass in an emergency.
Jared
The lower sulpher is not the problem, sulpher is all bad and removing it is a good thing, the problem is the lubricating compounds that are removed with the sulpher during the refining process. The "expensive goodies" you dump in your tank now are probably the best solution.
It should be a Dana 80 hybrid with 35 spline axles.
The 2500 auto trans trucks have Dana 70s, the manual trans 2500 and all 3500 have Dana 80 hybrid, the hybrid is an 80 center with 70 hubs.
Specs here: http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/specs/axle/rear_axle.html
From a post on TDR
"...
Are you sure it has ABS?
The dohickey on the left rear frame rail is a load sensing valve, nothing to do with ABS, if its in the down position it would probably reduce braking......
The sensor for the speedometer is on the tailshaft of the transfer case.
Not sure where the ABS sensor would be...
I think the BHAF is the same filter as the tymar, only easier on a Dodge.
Just remove the stock air box and put something on the studs to protect the filter, the stock hose fits right on the new filter. There are a few different styles of heat shield plans floating around but most just lay it...
It has a one piece non servicable bearing and hub assembly thats held on by four bolts from the back of the steering knuckle. The rotor is behind the hub so you will need to remove the whole thing, remove the large axle nut and back out the four retaining bolts. I've had good luck using a socket...
The front axle is a Dana 60, the rear should be a Dana 70.
The front brakes like to stick the caliper pins and slides, make sure every thing is extra clean and smooth with the proper lube.
All 12v engines should have the "KDP" (killer dowel pin inside the timming cover) addressed...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.