Key Switch Bypass

[vmax3_2001]

Looked and can't find much. Was wondering if there was a way to bypass the key switch and just run a toggle for power and shut off. I have a push Button already for the start solenoid, and bypassed my GPC so I only need the key for initial power to fuel pump and to get power to GPC. My switch went out today, I only get power when it is all the way forward in the start position and I need my truck back up ASAP. I'm not sure what wires on the column are for what. do they all to together. I'll fix it correctly later but for now what can I do. I can still use the key to unlock the steering wheel so thats not a prob...Thanks,

 

[towcat]

first the warning....
fix the slider switch ASAP if that is your problem. many ford vehicles have burned to the ground due to bad slider switches.
now.....
to "get you by" in the meantime, get a wire with two aligator clips and jump from the charging post of the alternator to the WIDE spade on the injection pump. that is the one closest to you. that is the "fuel shutoff solenoid". it must be energized in order for your truck to run. with all your other bypasses in place, this one will literally eliminate the need for the slider switch. BUT DO REFER TO THE FIRST WARNING........

 

[Goofyexponent]

Maybe a key system out of a big rig? lol

 

[02AutoWag]

This is what the previous owner did:

On the left is cab electricals.
Center is engine electricals.
On the right is momentary for the starter.
I'd like to wire a momentary for glow plugs next.

It appears that brown/pink and red/green are needed to power the engine electricals.

I also re wired whats pictured to have the starter momentary switch powered only when the engine switch is turned on. Is there anything obviously wrong with the way this is done?

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=378

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I got all toggles on my truck, eff that factory BS with the tumbler actuators and what not. I wish they kept the '70s design with the thing on the dash, like newer Pontiacs have it too, but noo, they had to go and come up with that stupid linkage design... Anyways, rewiring the factory switch into toggles is a bear of a job, I can post the ignition switch pinout and wiring details later if someone wants to do this as a permanent mod, but it's definitely not to be used as just a temporary solution. In other words, you either replace the factory switch with another switch of the same type, or go all out and rewire the switch entirely to run toggles, no in-between job is worth the time and effort.

 

[SparkandFire]

I was looking into changing over to the '70s style dash-mounted keyswitch, and I think the following parts on rockauto.com would work;

4H1071 - Key tumbler assembly
1S6163 - Switch assembly

do a "part number search" on rockauto and lookup these parts...

I haven't tried this mod yet, but I know the switch on my dad's '77 F250 was set up like this, and it worked perfectly! I agree with M.L.S.C., if you're going to go to all that trouble to temporarily bypass the slide switch, might as well just replace with with a dash mounted switch!

 

[david_lee]

what year is your truck? i have a spare slider switch that i was planning to take apart and figure out how to go all toggle. let me know if you want it. its for an 86 and older. i will send it to you for the price of shipping if it fits your truck.

edit: actually its for an 87 to 91. forgot that its on my original steering column.

 

[vmax3_2001]

Figued out this morning it's the slider switch. if I press it down all electrical works. I guess i'm gonna half to replace that. Hey TowCat, I didn't realize it was such a serious matter thanks for the heads up. Guess the riggen up will half to wait. Hey David Lee, it's a 91. I don't know how to put all the truck info at the bottom of the postings.

 

[pybyr]

first the warning....
many ford vehicles have burned to the ground due to bad slider switches.

Hmm-- tell me more about this-- are there warning signs? If this is something that happens out of the blue, then it seems like all the more reason (in addition to that casting that breaks) to go away from the column switch.

Ironically, dash-mounted ignition switches are now apparently a 'sophisticated new feature' in many new vehicles... old is new again...

 

[02AutoWag]

So, towcat, is this wiring a no-no?

I do intend on insulating the loose terminals.
The switches have also been mounted instead of just hanging there.
Starter power was rewired to be on only when engine switch is powered.
Can this be left as permanent wiring or is there some issue with what is there?

Cab electrical - Engine electrical - Starter

 

[NoDaK]

So, towcat, is this wiring a no-no?

I do intend on insulating the loose terminals.
The switches have also been mounted instead of just hanging there.
Starter power was rewired to be on only when engine switch is powered.
Can this be left as permanent wiring or is there some issue with what is there?

Cab electrical - Engine electrical - Starter

sorry to jump into your thread, but i would not operate your truck until you insulate those terminals. thats a short/fire waiting to happen.

 

[towcat]

So, towcat, is this wiring a no-no?

I do intend on insulating the loose terminals.
The switches have also been mounted instead of just hanging there.
Starter power was rewired to be on only when engine switch is powered.
Can this be left as permanent wiring or is there some issue with what is there?

Cab electrical - Engine electrical - Starter

ummmmmm......
i don't recall seeing anything like that on your f350 when I went to go check it out.
what you got there is a fire hazard.

 

[towcat]

Hmm-- tell me more about this-- are there warning signs? If this is something that happens out of the blue, then it seems like all the more reason (in addition to that casting that breaks) to go away from the column switch.

Ironically, dash-mounted ignition switches are now apparently a 'sophisticated new feature' in many new vehicles... old is new again...

ford had a companywide recall on that switch issue. the above symptoms are one of the issues. often when a vehicle burns, there is no warning.
somewhere in this forum, there is a sob story of a guy who owned a 4door bronco that this happened to. good thing it burned to the ground on his driveway and not in his garage.

 

[jcarr]

Autowag I have done lots of toggle wiring into ingition switches and if done propperly there is little to no danger. Make sure you use switches rated for the current load of the circuits they control, insulate your connections, and propperly mount your switches. If you can't find switches you like that will handle the required current the use a lighter duty switch to control a bosch or hella relay that controls the higher current circuit.

I've wired many a powerchoke with remote start/stop using relays. Of course the relays were controled by a crane mounted on the service body on the back of the truck.

 

[02AutoWag]

Towcat, this isn't on the F350 you looked at, it belongs to the F250 I just picked up. The truck functions as it's wired, but I was just asking if it was safe. As I wrote, the switches have already been properly mounted and I do intend on insulating the terminals.

As far as switch rating goes...I replaced the cab switch and the engine switch with illuminated ones rated at 20 amps, is this enough? I don't know the rating of the momentary starter switch though. Can anyone tell me if power is actually running through these wires, or are they connected to relays from the factory?

So with the wiring as it is (and with proper insulation), do I need to worry about the fire hazard of this faulty factory Ford slide switch that has burnt down people's trucks? I believe what I have is running around this faulty slide switch, correct?