We suggested you get that rad cooler in line!! Glad you finally got it!! Running both temp gauges would give you the best information as you drive down the road. You said the trans fluid is still nice and red. Does it smell burnt?
I'm very bad at judging the odor of ATF. A freshly opened jug has a burned smell to me.
Also when you take it to him for the deep pan install, I would want to see the insides of the pan immediately when it drops. See how much break-in material is in that pan. The last thing I would do is nit-pick and b&*tch, it seems you two are already at odds, kill him with kindness and explain you feel taken advantage of, and that you need to make your dollars stretch further than most. (I am speaking from experience here, I grew up in a $1500 house, I have lived a lot of my life below the poverty line)
I'm going to do the deep pan install myself. And he is fine with that. In fact he wants me to do that before I bring it, so he can be sure it's not leaking from the pan gasket.
I will use the drain plug to minimize mess since it's going to be done in the street outside of Nero's house. There was a huge mess before from pulling it, so I'll try to avoid making a mess. I'll use my light grey pan, so I can see if there's any material in it (vs a cheap black pan). I'll be sure to take pictures and if it's extra nasty, I'll also see about saving some of the fluid in a clear container to show the shop owner. And not wipe the pan either if it looks really bad, so he can see what it looks like for himself.
He did finally agree to inspect the shifter adjustment for nothing, but he said if it needs actual adjusting or whatever of linkages, he'll have to charge for that.
The new fluids handle temps much much better, and I would think a C6 could handle some abuse for 3-5 miles. If it was slipping, maybe something else internally was subpar, parts, tolerances... etc.
Well, from what I have read, an overheating trans can cause slippage. So, it could have just been that. It was showing 280-300ish (hard to judge exactly) when it was happening.
Since it was a carry-in rebuild, would you mind sharing how much you paid for the rebuild? 3-spd hydramatics should be the cheapest to rebuild, and the easiest to modify for strength and durability.
Just under $2300. (plus about $68 in ATF, I bought that) Other shops in WA/OR were quoting anywhere from $2,000 to $3500. Yeah it's bloody expensive up here. I had no choice really, since it was removed and put in their shop already. And it was on it's last leg, it might have lasted 1,000 more miles or it might have lasted 100 more. It needed a lot of hard parts. Look further back in the thread where I listed parts/shift kit put in.
The turbo might have been an issue if a shop was R&Ring too, since it did have to be unbolted and totally reinstalled too, more or less. The oil drain hose was hardened and cracked in half like it was plastic, despite being rubber originally.
If you want a second opinion, and I know it's a long shot, Transmission Pros in Mitchell SD has been in business a very long time. Larry, the original owner, and my dad have been friends for 40+ years. His 2 boys took over the shop. For my dad's birthday/Christmas, and the next few years, I had them rebuild the T350C in his '79 C10. We dropped the pickup off, and a few days later picked it up. To R&R, Build it, and replace the pitman arm was under $1k. It's been flawless for 12 years, we have grossed 13-14k a couple of times remodeling a house with 2.56 rear gear, so the TC had to work OT those days. I am no trans expert, but I was told they used a low stall T400 TC, and a few other goodies inside that will outlive the vehicle. We only have the rad cooler, no external air to air.
I've been to Mitchell SD but it was with the F250, not the RV. That's a long way from here. I had planned to go over to SD this summer, but not now. I have to catch up, budget wise.
I watch Precision Transmission on youtube, and that Father/son team seems to be one I would also trust. They are in NW Texas somewhere. They compete in drag racing on the side. They really seem to know their stuff with domestics.
Yeah, I do too now and then. I actually had considered having them rebuild it a couple times when I was in the area, but I figured "if it ain't broken, don't fix it". Kinda regret it now. The slipping only began around April/May this year, so... it's not like I was putting it off with that happening. I was even in Amarillo again a couple times back in Oct/Nov last year.
I am sorry you feel slighted, but there are good people out there in their own shops. Don't be penny-wise and pound foolish. Also, maybe you could have one of those shops install the GV after the bank account recovers, and have them give it a 2nd look....drop the VB, pressures, etc.
I may see if a driveline shop in Centriallia or Longview/Kelso can shorten a driveshaft this week for a decent price, if the RV salvage yard I'll be going to tomorrow has one. Then go ahead and install the GV before I leave Nero's next week. I'll just have to see what the turnaround time would be for the shortening/balancing and how much, assuming I can even get my hands on a spare driveshaft.
Just the other day, one of my high balance credit cards suddenly offered me 0.9% APR for 9 months on new purchases, so that gonna help for sure, if I decide to do that. Considering I'd get 1% cash back on the purchases too, that's not bad.