First UOA 7.3IDIT 912 miles

http://www.ranchopower.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/CLEVELAND_TECHNICAL_CENTER-I797442-Sev1.pdf

first of a few more samples to be taken.
No oil change unless lab suggest it.
5W30 Diesel Oil by AMSOIL
looks like so far so good...

this is a new engine 100% fresh only 912 miles at time of sample
Now it has 2500 miles and only has used 1.5 quarts since it fired up

Javier

Why such a light oil? Espeically in Florida....

If im not mistaken it is a synthetic

It is synthetic, but 5w30 still sounds light to me. Maybe thats the proper oil for break in though....

that is the only weight they have the rotella synthetic in, and a couple of other synthetics that i have seen

I can get any blend from AMSOIL at any time, I dont have to worry about what is and what is not on the shelf
I choose 5W30 AMSOIL for the MPG and it takes the elements here in SoFL just fine year round.
Buy it once and the oil drain plug will most likely never have to be removed again, for the life of the engine.
Used with the proper filtration and oil analysis of course!
I bet this time next year I spent less than many here...


Javier

If you check the manual, a 30 grade is listed for the 6.9/7.3 engines and I have run Rotella 10W30 in mine. The Amsoil HDD 5W30 is great stuff and pretty difficult to shear down. You can run a 15W40 conventional for 4-5K miles and at the end, many have sheared/diluted down into the grade 30 area anyway.

I choose viscosity based on ambient temp, oil temp and operation. My oil temp generally runs below the 212F viscosity rating point (it's thicker when cooler than that), so a 40 grade may be running in a 50 grade area and a 30 grade could be in 40 grade territory. If the oil is thicker than you need, it's just costing more energy to spin the engine over. An occasional spurt over 212 isn't going to hurt anything, especially with a robust oil.

On the other hand, you may work the truck hard enough and get it hot enough where that 40 grade in the crankcase is so hot it's thinned down to a 30. That's where the thicker oil is necessary. The synthetics will stay in grade somewhat better than a conventional, but the temp thing applies to them as well.

Bottom line, I wouldn't be afraid of the HDD 5W30 in most situations, but the numbers for expensive syns don't crunch for me. I get fantastic UOAs on conventional oils and OCIs of 5K most times. I recently added a 3u nominal Racor ABS bypass system so when my engine is back together (blown head gasket so it's getting some upgrades- heads done, stud kit, rings & bearings just because) I can probably extend that OCI quite a bit. Maybe to 10K. I usually buy Rotella-T on sale so I can get a pretty good deal on oil. 10K on $2.50/qt oil is what I call E-C-O-N-O-M-Y.

Sorry for the dupe post!

wouldn't you want to change the oil and filter after you first fire it up, and than again after a 100 mile or so break in? Than start running your $$$ synthetic?

PZ

I bet Javier's IDIT will still last at least 250-300K miles or whenever he gets tired of it or the gov't forces it off the road. I'm using the Amsoil Diesel and Marine 15w-40 though, seems like the best of both the synthetic world and using a bit thicker oil than some others. It has good UOA results and still seems ok with a year and 9,000 miles on it even without the bypass filtration. In all reality there's probably less miles on the sum of that oil since my truck does burn some off.

phazertwo said:

wouldn't you want to change the oil and filter after you first fire it up, and than again after a 100 mile or so break in? Than start running your $$$ synthetic?

PZ

Click to expand...

You know that is not at all bad advice! I used to do it, more times than not you always find something wrong.
Not any oil, too much oil, loose filter etc etc etc.

Me on the other hand I have been wrenching since 15yrs old, have my own place, I am the BOSS so I learn from my own mistakes, I cant blame it on anyone but me if it gets all phucked up.

I have learned if breakin oil is used, usually it is cheap crap I would not run anyway! A total waste of time I learned! Magnet used always shows metal!

Do you shave your face with a worn down razor or a new one?
I rather use a super slick oil to breakin my engine than a oil that
allows for rapid wear. the use of a simple magnet shows the ability of the oil
to resist wear or NOT! SO simple anyone can do this...

A smoother cylinder pumps more air than a rougher one.
I am not wanting to cause any wear in my engine, last longer!

WHy use oil that is designed to be sold and perform for a few miles? seems silly to me!

Javier

From what I have been told, you are supposed to use the normal oil as Javier mentioned during the break in period. When my father bought his PSD new in 1996, they advised it that way and to change every 3000 miles like any other time.
More recently (last year) my boss bought his brand new Dodge diesel and was advised to change it after the first 5000 miles then go to normal 3000 mile OCIs. A little different, but the same concept.

Dave7.3 said:

From what I have been told, you are supposed to use the normal oil as Javier mentioned during the break in period. When my father bought his PSD new in 1996, they advised it that way and to change every 3000 miles like any other time.
More recently (last year) my boss bought his brand new Dodge diesel and was advised to change it after the first 5000 miles then go to normal 3000 mile OCIs. A little different, but the same concept.

Click to expand...

That is like a nurse telling you what is wrong with you, she says dont bother with the doctor, I have seen it many times before.
You ask Why dont I ask the doctor, The nurse replies I am a certified nurse aint I?

I rather a lubricant specialist tell me what to use, cause ASE mechanics and any blowhard at the dealer has not one day in any lubricant class or is requiered by law to have any training in lubricant selection.


Yet they give the most lubricant advice

I dont play that!

Back in the early 90's I met a guy who was an amsoil distributor. He also sold Frantz bypass filtration systems. He drove a Subaru and at the time had close to 100k on the same oil. He changed his filters every 10k if I remember correctly. That would be both spin on and bypass filters. I didn't stay in contact with him to know what his long term results were but he was very confident with his setup.

I always run some regular oil when I first fire up an engine. IMO there is to much crap in there (mostly assembly lube) that will clog the filter. I fire it up, break in the cam, change the oil. Change again at 100 miles to oil of choice. I don't use cheap crap oil, just not synthetic.

I worked with a engine re-builder that said he had seen filters crack because they had gotten clogged with assembly lube. An extra two oil changes guarantees that that won't happen to your new engine. That's why I do it.

PZ