drive shaft issues

biggin92

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Hello all . Haven't posted in a while. I've been working on my 94 f350 cummins swap. I wound up using the dodge trans and newer dodge transfer case with a 99 sd driveshaft. The problem I'm having is the rear section of the shaft seems like it keeps grabbing the front section and trying to pull the rubber out of the back of the carrier bearing. The splines look good and the blue coating is still in good shape but it doesn't move easily. What do i need to try?
 

Clb

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Balanced professionally/alignment?
Lube as above.
Pics or more details may help.
 

OLDBULL8

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Is the truck lifted? Nothing about the present truck in your signature.

Lifted, referring to the drive shaft angle.
 

biggin92

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Sorry . Yes it has a 2" block on top of the 4" factory block . The front section was shortened and balanced . I put a brand new carrier bearing in it and less than 10 miles later it's trying to pull the rubber through the back of the hoop again. Seems like the slip doesn't doesn't move freely and it's binding. What's the best way to clean the splines inside the yoke?.

1994 f350 4x4 cclb .1989 12v 1991 46rh 2001 dodge transfer case and yoke . 1999 f350 1410 rear shaft . 4" lift on 38" nitto's
 

Black dawg

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Have you pulled the slip apart and looked at it? sometimes the blue stuff gets damaged and the slip forced together, causing it to not move as easy as it should.

Those added blocks are looking for trouble.
 

biggin92

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I have pulled it apart . The blue coating looks like new and i smeared mobil 1 red grease on it . I've ran the same block setup for 10 years on my ex cab shortbed f250 . I've never had an issue with em . I'd love to buy a pair of lift springs but they're too pricy for my pocket.
 

Black dawg

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I've ran the same block setup for 10 years on my ex cab shortbed f250 . I've never had an issue with em . I'd love to buy a pair of lift springs but they're too pricy for my pocket.

Those nittos arent cheap....how many 500 dollar bills did that cummins swap cost you;Really

I wonder if that slip and stub are mis-matched somehow?
 

laserjock

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So you have 2" blocks on top of the standard 1 ton 4" blocks. That seems like a lot of driveline angle unless you have a shim or angled blocks or something. My suggestion is to relieve that driveline angle some how. Drop the carrier bearing down or something. That has got to be really steep on an ext. cab truck.
 

biggin92

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I didn't buy em new. I've got $150 in them . In the whole truck I've got $2400 in it total with the swap and all . It's been about a two year project . I bought it as a cab and frame to convert my 97 ex cab short bed into a cc sb . But couldn't bring myself to tear my ex cab apart. So i ended up finding the cummins and trans for cheap and had an 8' bed and a 90 front clip left over from another swap. As far as the drive line angle . The dodge trans sits about 2" higher than the e4od did. So the angle at the carrier bearing looks like factory. As far as i can tell.
 

sjwelds

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So now we're getting somewhere....Does the shaft pass thru the carrier squarely, or is it on an angle to the carrier. Reason I ask is on my truck I had to shim the carrier bracket down on the front (IIRC) side because it looked like the crossmember above it that the bracket was bolted to had been bent, and thus was throwing the bearing itself further forward than it was supposed to be....just something to check

JM2CW
 

sjwelds

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And just so we're clear, it actually pops the rubber carrier bearing out of the steel housing correct? That's just what mine was doing before I fixed it.
 

biggin92

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Yes that's exactly what it does. If it was a fixed yoke transfer case it wouldn't allow it to move the front section or have these issues.
 

greenskeeper

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I'd go to a single piece driveshaft. Unrelated but after 240k miles the blue coating on my slip joint was gone. I got a single piece driveshaft made up by A-1 driveshafts for $270 shipped to my door in 3 business days.
 
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