What's the best truck for WMO?

My truck has had a new pump and injectors shortly before I bought it. I'm assuming it had the pump screwed in a turn or two on the governor, but it'll EASILY pull 80-85 with power to spare. The problem is it's turning 3 GRAND to make that 85 MPH. I have had the truck pegged out, the speedometer pegs at 92-93ish at that it had a little left at the 93-95MPH. If it had an overdrive on it it'd have no trouble doing 100. If it had a 3.55 in the rear it'd probably turn 100, but with the low speed rear end it screams at 85-90.

Ah... gotchya. Screaming engines are annoying.

Para, I did the same as you (experimental vehicle) but my choice was an 84 F250 with a 6.9 that had 269,000 miles. The first four months were on Veg and after that I went to petroleum products (wmo, atf, hydraulic) and have put 46,000 miles on oil. It just broke a GP off in the cylinder two days ago. Time for a new engine But as far as using WMO I would say the Ford IDI is hard to beat.

I hunk the optical sensors was only on some of the chevy's. I m not sure which ones, but i recently ran into a guy who runs wmo in a newer chevy (not new new, but new than I would expect). I guess it can be done...anyway.

I would agree that an IDI probably isn't what you're looking for, but to be honest the 94-97 psd's probably aren't either. The 99-03 7.3L psd's are probably a better bet.

Duramax doesn't have optical sensor. The older 6.5 idi did. Roughly 93-97 or so I think.
Duramax started in 00-01. But if you go Duramax, don't get 00-04.
I see lots of people talk about running it in the powerstroke. Don't get the late 99-03 powerstroke. They had PMR's (powdered metal rods) which limit you power wise.
And yes, I would have it tuned for alt fuels.

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Fast, cheap, reliable... pick 2. That's an old saying about modifying vehicles. The power output of the IDI is just fine for 80mph on the highway and hauling.

Do keep in mind that suspended carbon in WMO is nearly impossible to filter or fuge out, and it's abrasive. Expect faster wear on the injection system. That's offset by the savings, of course. Burn 200 gallons of oil and you'll have "paid" for the new pump/injectors. Thats about 3500 miles out of an IDI.

Since this car is hurt, maybe I'll get a cheap IDI to hold me over a little longer. That way, I can still drive a diesel now and look for a "nice" truck when peoples Christmas bills start rolling in.

A cheap IDI would be a great test bed while you get your filtration setup built and running.

Oh, no! Filtration is already up and running strong! I've already run over 110 gallons of oil through this thing, tested several formulas, tested different timing settings... in fact, I have a backup centrifuge to my centrifuge just in case something happens. Every time I fuel up with oil, I put the money I would have spent into a savings account. I'm up to about $45.00/week now.

Well hell, get an IDI and run it straight wmo! Start/shutdown on straight d2 from one tank, and run WMO in the other.

Very high wmo blends run fine but don't start well in IDI's.

Carrillo, that is exactly what I do. One tank has never had oil and the other on always has oil!

Only suck part about the stock ford switching valves... the supply and return switch at the same time so cross contamination is bad... I run two switches/valves and switch the supply first... the the return... or vice versa. Don't mind mixing d2 in the oil tank but want the main tank to stay oil free.

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I'm using that electric switching valve that everyone is selling on eBay. It's been working great until this morning. Now it's stuck in D2. Oh well, I've ordered another one. There is a lot of cross contamination. The stuff in the D2 tank stays too dark to see through. But my contamination isn't coming from the valve. It's the big fuel filter, pump, and return lines. But the contamination is small enough that the system flushes clean.

If I do end up with a Ford, I'll be pulling out that stupid switching valve before it leaves me stuck somewhere. It's kind of a duh-brained design.

I haven't had any issues with mine (switching valve)...But it sounds like you have a good plan! One thing I may mention is that any current issues will get worse with WMO (in your new truck). If you get a good deal on it, you may want to do some maintenance like return lines, olive seals in the hard lines (4 total seals and 1hr of work). Those are the things that caused me issues after the ethanol in the rug got to the rubber. Glow plugs are affordable, but ONLY use BERU/MOTORCRAFT. The IP is right on the top front of the engine. If it's leaking from anywhere other than the hard lines, run away. It's too much work for you right now (according to your wife ;p ). Injectors will probably be ok as long as they don't have 80-100k on them...

there's a million things, just get the best you can afford.

Thanks for the note on the injection pump. I'm not too scared of the injectors. It's not THAT expensive compared to some other things that could go wrong. And good ol' RUG, ah... I've solved the ethanol problem by using ethanol free RUG . If I couldn't get a hold of that, I'd just add water to the RUG before mixing it in. Water will make ethanol settle to the bottom and any that gets left over will come out in the centrifuge.

So far, I've run straight WMO, 50/50, W85, W80, and 60% WMO - 20% D2 - 20% RUG. The last one has been my latest. The car runs great on it, but that thin stuff has started eating at my processing buckets and rubber pieces.

I'm also familiar with "rehabbing" a neglected vehicle. So far, on this Mercedes, I've done brakes, emergency brake shoes and cable, AC compressor, AC condensor, AC blower motor, seats, doors, hood, trunk lid, electric fan, new radiator, 2 primer pumps, several fuel filters, fuel injectors, pump timing, water pump, thermostat, 2 alternators, plus the whole dual fuel system. Maybe that's why the wife is getting upset .