Should I buy? 1994 F-350 IDI Turbo Reg Cab Manual (Hard Start)

507Sledz

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The PO's hard starting is probably due to only one battery and that's probably in not to good of condition. I would bet with two batteries and good glow plug system, it would fire right off. When first starting, the GP system sucks a lot of power out of the batteries, then it takes 600 to 700 Amps to first get the engine to start to turn over. Damn cold up your way, so you'd need two good batteries to start, let alone what the plow is taking to operate. For that price, I would go for it. First thing would be to change the coolant to Fleet Gard, it has the SCA in it to protect from cavitation. Then use a Synthetic oil in the winter.

Do you think there is any possibility that the motor is already cavitation? maybe it then has low compression in that cylinder and that is why it is starting hard? with only 150,000 miles on it?

Thanks for the reply!
 

507Sledz

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The T-19 is a four speed manual (it's what I have) It is a cast iron cased top loader that is virtually indestructible, unless you fill it with modern gear lube. They are also the easiest transmission (for our trucks) to rebuild, and you can find parts for them anywhere. Junkyards are full of them as they were one of the most common transmissions ever made. They are great for a lot of tough jobs, but they are not a modern smooth shifting trans.

If my zf-5 goes bad can I bolt a T-19 up to my a 1994 idi motor? Really all I am looking for is a tough reliable work horse, that is easy and cheap to fix, and reading about these trucks it sound like that is exactly what they are.

Thanks
 

507Sledz

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hmm... with a zf-5 and a D-60 front end, I'd be tempted. Offer 2 thousand? Be prepared to rebuild EVERYTHING! Plow mounts are hard to find for these trucks due to the radiator, be prepared to weld up your own.

He has it posted for $3500, I got him down to $3000 right away. and the night before my brother was going to go get, he got talking to a mechanic who just insisted it was starting hard because of low compression, which then made all of us take a step back, I just thought it started hard because it was an old diesel that needed a little love. SO I shot back and offered to meet half way for $2500 or I will have my brother drive 4hrs for $2000. He said no to both haha.
 

507Sledz

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A T-19 is just another manual trans, 4 speed, ZF5 is 5 with 5th OD.

Should have mentioned to replace or check the glow plugs, if there anything but Motorcraft/Beru replace them.

Cancer don't look to bad, that's two common places on Fords.

The owner said he replaced a few, but not all of them, im sure he put in the cheapest set he could find from the local parts store.

Yes the cancer for Minnesota for how old the truck is, is not that bad. From what I can see in the pic's anyway
 

507Sledz

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Thats all the pics I have to go off of
 

riotwarrior

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Yes IDI

Likely cause of hard start is craptastic glow plugs along with poor maintanence of said system...and potential air intrusion....1 battery.....and now likely a weakend starter due to long crank times.

Plugging block heater in and trying to fire after its warmed up is a legit test method that indicates bad glow plugs...if still difficult could be air...

Welcome to the forum...read the pinned stickies at top of page...tons n tons of info to learn ya right off the hop. This way you hqve a better understanding of these trucks.

My engine is low comp but working gp system ensures it starts. When I got it it was hodge podged together...after a full rewire back to stock....it works fine now. Takes a bit of cranking but I knkw what it takes.

BTW 20 seconds crank....2 to 5 mins cool down for starter....

These are beasts to turn over.

Thanks for your service ....from a canucklehead

Btw...truck looks good enough to pull trigger...however...offer 2500...2 new batteries....cables n glow plugs make up closer to 3k

JM7.ECW Eh!
 

507Sledz

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Yes IDI

Likely cause of hard start is craptastic glow plugs along with poor maintanence of said system...and potential air intrusion....1 battery.....and now likely a weakend starter due to long crank times.

Plugging block heater in and trying to fire after its warmed up is a legit test method that indicates bad glow plugs...if still difficult could be air...

Welcome to the forum...read the pinned stickies at top of page...tons n tons of info to learn ya right off the hop. This way you hqve a better understanding of these trucks.

My engine is low comp but working gp system ensures it starts. When I got it it was hodge podged together...after a full rewire back to stock....it works fine now. Takes a bit of cranking but I knkw what it takes.

BTW 20 seconds crank....2 to 5 mins cool down for starter....

These are beasts to turn over.

Thanks for your service ....from a canucklehead

Btw...truck looks good enough to pull trigger...however...offer 2500...2 new batteries....cables n glow plugs make up closer to 3k

JM7.ECW Eh!


Thank you for all the info! I will try $2500 and see what he says! Lets say worst case scenario, the motor needs to be replaced completely, how much am I looking at, for either a new 7.3 IDI or a used one with somewhat low miles, anything below 150,000 miles. Ball park price?

Thanks Again!
 

riotwarrior

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Prices vary from location to location...I am hammering a deal kn a used engije here for a member 750 plus....as its IN A VAN...read HO...to get out.

Reman engine 3500 easy....overhaul yours if no cavitagion maybe 1500 if cavitation...figure sleeving it and so on.

So 500 to 1500 for an engine...depending on condition etc.

JM7.3CW Eh!
 

ifrythings

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I have to agree with laserjock, not worth it. You need 2 new fenders, bed sides and tailgate, that alone is 3g and you'll probably need a new rad support too, add in new batteries, glow plugs, injectors and injection pump as those wont be changed at that mileage and your at another $1000. I'd find something in better shape even if you have to fly to it.

BTW is it just me or do the front leaf springs look very negatively arched like a 250?
 

junk

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I'd check the compression before I bought it. I bought my 93 damn near the exact same way. It was hard starting and told it had low compression. I brought it home caught up on the maintenance. It actually ran pretty good, but started burning oil like crazy. 100 mile per gallon of oil. Serious.

It looks OK to me. With a bad engine though He's way too high. It's more like a 1500$ truck to me and only if it's a Dana 60 up front.

Good luck. Where's it at? I"m in northwest Iowa.
 

507Sledz

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I have to agree with laserjock, not worth it. You need 2 new fenders, bed sides and tailgate, that alone is 3g and you'll probably need a new rad support too, add in new batteries, glow plugs, injectors and injection pump as those wont be changed at that mileage and your at another $1000. I'd find something in better shape even if you have to fly to it.

BTW is it just me or do the front leaf springs look very negatively arched like a 250?

The rust doesn't worry as much as the overall performance of the vehical, I just figured it was a low mileage diesel, with the notorious 7.3, a tough manual tranny, and dana 60 axels. All the other forums I read about these trucks pretty much said they are slow, but reliable and easy to work on. Which is what I am looking for, a plow truck, Something I can beat up but fix easy and for cheap.

How do I tell if the truck has Dana 60 axles?

Thanks for the reply
 
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507Sledz

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I'd check the compression before I bought it. I bought my 93 damn near the exact same way. It was hard starting and told it had low compression. I brought it home caught up on the maintenance. It actually ran pretty good, but started burning oil like crazy. 100 mile per gallon of oil. Serious.

It looks OK to me. With a bad engine though He's way too high. It's more like a 1500$ truck to me and only if it's a Dana 60 up front.

Good luck. Where's it at? I"m in northwest Iowa.

So at 150,000 miles you think the motor could be bad? He has never told me the motor is bad, he just says it starts hard, I am just worried it could be bad "worse case scenario"

How do you tell if the truck has Dana 60 Axles?

Thanks for the reply!
 

507Sledz

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I am also worried I will not be able to find another 7.3 Turbo F-350 Reg Cab Manual for awhile. At least one that does not have 400,000 some miles on it.
 

507Sledz

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Here is another option for me, however it is a 1991, so no turbo, I also don't know if it is a F-350, it has the same amount of miles but they are asking $5000. It is also located closer to my home, but as you can see is in much better shape.

What I don't like about this truck is the Price, It does not have a turbo, and if it is a f-250 it wont have the dana 60 axles.


Which truck would you go with?
 
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