brake bleeding...

no mufflers · Jun 28, 2016

I am having trouble bleeding my brakes. I replaced the master, both calipers, front flex lines and made a new line that connects both calipers.

I have bled it several times but cant get a firm pedal. are there any tricks or procedures I need to do to properly bleed the system.

the brakes did work fine before it all came apart.

79jasper · Jun 28, 2016

You did bench bleed the master, correct?
And checked rear brake adjustment?

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DaveBen · Jun 28, 2016

Either pressurize the reservoir or use a vacuum to suck the fluid out. Jumping on the brake pedal won't help bleeding a new master cylinder.

no mufflers · Jun 28, 2016

79jasper said:
You did bench bleed the master, correct?
And checked rear brake adjustment?

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I hooked two old brake lines to the fittings and into the reservoir and pumped it until there was no air. I think that is correct.

the rear brakes are 100%

79jasper · Jun 28, 2016

Yep, that's the process. I used the clear lines that came with my new master.
After i let it sit a bit, I would get more bubbles. And the clear line let me see exactly what was there.

Do you still have the RABS valve?

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no mufflers · Jun 28, 2016

DaveBen said:
Either pressurize the reservoir or use a vacuum to suck the fluid out. Jumping on the brake pedal won't help bleeding a new master cylinder.

I do have a vacuum bleeder and sucked through a good amount of fluid. I also let it gravity bleed and was getting some bubbles. then I closed the bleeders to check the fluid and re opened the bleeders and got no bubbles but the pedal was still soft.

no mufflers · Jun 28, 2016

79jasper said:
Do you still have the RABS valve?

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yes I do.

79jasper · Jun 28, 2016

No air coming from there?

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F350camper · Jun 28, 2016

hmmm, one method I've used when I had a few new large sections of brake line.
4 water bottles about 1/8th full of brake fluid each.
Clear hose from each bleeder into its own water bottle on all 4 corners, making sure the end of the hose is below the fluid level.
Open all bleeders, and let it slowly fill the water bottles.
Keep the reservoir full while gravity does the work.
Close each bleeder when you are 100% you've seen no bubbles for a while on that corner.

This was mostly because I didnt have a helper available at the time, but it worked really well.

riotwarrior · Jun 28, 2016

Is master right bore size?

I use a simple container similar to f350camper...i hqve one long line in and below fuild level in my container a second line in above fluid level...draw a vacuum on that.....whilst fluid fills....and no air....tighten bleeder.

no mufflers · Jun 28, 2016

the master is the right size. the one in the truck said ford and 1 1/8 on it. the computer at the parts store said the same thing. il just try to cycle more fluid through and see what happens.

I have done many brake systems and none of them have been this difficult.

IDIoit · Jun 28, 2016

when i did mine yesterday, i couldnt get the valve on the rear port to pop open.
i said f'it and gutted the damn thing.
i have adjustable bias on this system tho.
did you do new lines? or atleast blow out the old ones?
thinking the RABS could be the culprit

no mufflers · Jun 28, 2016

I made a new line that goes under the engine to each caliper, the old one was cheesed in there. I didn't touch any of the rear lines so there shouldn't be an issue there.

I bled them some more tonight and the pedal is the same, I am getting no air out of the bleeders. if you pump the pedal it will get firm but if you hold it, it will slowly go down.

yARIC008 · Jun 28, 2016

no mufflers said:
I made a new line that goes under the engine to each caliper, the old one was cheesed in there. I didn't touch any of the rear lines so there shouldn't be an issue there.

I bled them some more tonight and the pedal is the same, I am getting no air out of the bleeders. if you pump the pedal it will get firm but if you hold it, it will slowly go down.

Maybe you got a poorly rebuilt master cylinder that is leaking by? I had alot of trouble with mine too a while back. I ended up getting those bleeders with the one way valves in them and then just bled the hell out of the system over and over, front and back. I finally got a firm pedal, but it took forever.

You said rears are 100%, you mean the pad is 100% or their adjusted good for sure? The rears mis adjusted will for sure give you some funky pedal action. You also said you didn't mess with the rear brake lines but you changed out the master cylinder? Changing it out would have got air in the rear lines... or were you saying you just didn't replace those lines but did bleed the rears?

79jasper · Jun 28, 2016

^ yup. Speed bleeders are awesome.

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brake bleeding...

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