battery charge question

ericwade381

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Can anyone tell me where the amp reader arm should be after the glow plugs cycle mine goes to 8? New batteries alt volt regulator and starter but seems it does not spin fast like when I charge the batteries? ? Also once in a while I get a clunk sound when I turn the key it could do it 4 or six times in a row then will start. Also previous owner said it drained batteries they have pretty much anything electric unplugged except lights for driving it does have a snow plow set up and wired could it be that?
 
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franklin2

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The volt gauge going to 8 when the glowplugs are energized is normal. After it starts, the gauge will slowly creep up the scale, mine will stop when it's pointed directly down right in the middle of the scale. Depending on the weather and how hard it was to start, and how much I have been running the truck, it may take a while for the needle to make it to the center, but it usually will after running the engine for awhile.

The clunk sound means your starter has a loose connection or the copper washer inside it is bad.

These starters have a true "solenoid" mounted on them. When you turn the key to start, that sends juice down to the solenoid on the starter via the smaller wire. When the smaller wire gets power, it energizes the large coil in the solenoid. This pulls a plunger inside the solenoid back to the terminal end of the starter. As the plunger is going back, it's also pulling on a lever that is sending the starter gear forward into the flywheel. When the plunger gets all the way back to the terminal end, there is a large copper washer that is smashes against the two large wire terminals. This connects the large battery wire to the starter motor and makes the starter motor spin.

This copper washer is were your problem might be inside the starter. You are hearing the clunk as the solenoid moves and sends the gear into the flywheel, but there is no current getting to the starter motor through the copper washer.
 

ericwade381

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Thank you for the info! I have noticed the ground wire on the starter has a cut through the outside of the plastic was not sure if that could be it also?
 

madpogue

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There is no ground wire on the starter. It grounds through its physical contact with the engine/tranny. The large wire is the main starter motor wire; the smaller wire is the relay-to-solenoid wire. Which one is nicked? Is it near any metal part of the truck?
 

OLDBULL8

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You should have a large wire, RED, directly from the battery to the starter, it's about 3/4" diameter. Disconnect the ground wire,NEGATIVE, on both batteries, a must do. Then check the connection of the large wire on the starter, it may be loose or a dirty connection. That large wire may be corroded under the insulation, if it is you need a new one.
 

franklin2

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That nicked positive wire could be the problem. Or any type of loose connection on this heavy + wire could be the problem. The electrical system can pass enough power to pull the solenoid and activate it, but the starter motor draws a lot of current, so any little problem or resistance in the heavy wire can cause the starter motor not to turn. Sometimes the problem area will "weld" itself and pass current for a little while, and then it will break loose and cause problems again.
 

dunk

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On mine voltage drops to about 11.5v when glow plugs are on, that's with new 2/0 grounds and crossover and group 31s.. With 5+ year old small batteries and old junky cables it dropped to ~10v with glow plugs on. 8v sounds low from my limited experience.

I would check cable condition and clean all connections at batteries/block/starter/solenoids and see what that does for you. Also check battery voltage off vs running and verify it's charging appropriately and batteries hold charge after it has been sitting a while. Nicked cable is bad. See if it's corroded and green/nasty. If so replace. If not you cna probably slide some heat shrink on it or tape it up. Click no crank sounds like low voltage somewhere from a bad cable or loose/dirty connection. My 460 truck did that sometimes despite fairly new 850cca battery and 2ga cables, cranked over slow or just clicked, the cable connection at the starter solenoid on the starter was dirty/corroded. Broke the solenoid removing it. New cable and solenoid and she cranked over real fast.
 

franklin2

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Your problem is intermittent, so it's going to be a little difficult to find. When you get time I would go ahead and disconnect the batteries, and pull the starter. You can take the starter solenoid off, take it apart and inspect the washer. If it's really burnt up sometimes you can turn it around, or put a little sandpaper on it to clean it up. By taking the starter off you are also checking the connections, and can tighten them up and check the ends for corrosion and being loose.

Before you re-install the starter I would take a scraper and clean off the area on the bellhousing where the starter mounts. If it's really crusty looking, I would take a drill and put one of those little wire wheel cups in it and run it on the area to try and clean it up really good. Then put a little never seize or even a little light oil on the area to keep it from corroding. The connection between the starter body and the bellhousing is very important.
 

dunk

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The connection between the starter body and the bellhousing is very important.

Yes, this is the only ground for the starter. I had one years ago on an FE that had starting issues and starter tested fine when pulling it off and bench testing. On the car, no love. Was a dirty bell and poor starter ground causing intermittent no crank. Very important to have good clean contact especially considering the current that an IDI starter requires.
 

ericwade381

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Thanks I do know that one of my negative terminals is split on the cable and I did see a little bit of green in there I was just debating whether to replace all of the cables since I'm sure that they have never been replaced since 1988 lol while I'm there should I replace the neck cable that goes to the starter?
 

franklin2

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Anywhere water and dirt can get into the copper is asking for trouble. If it looks good otherwise and corrosion has not set in, at least put something around it to keep water out. They have paint-on electrical tape, and rubber tape at lowe's that seals well. Or just replace it or a section of it and use some shrink wrap. They have that nice shrink wrap that has a sealer inside it that oozes out when you shrink it. Same stuff you use to hook up submersible well pumps.
 

dunk

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Yep... I like the liquid electrical tape. I have a ratcheting crimper for smaller gauge conenctions. I use that to crimp terminals and use liquid electric tape and heat shrink over the connection. Larger gauge terminals, generally 8ga or so and up, I use a hammer style crimper in my press to crimp tight, then solder, then liquid electric tape and heat shrink. All major wiring it totally sealed and any place it may rub gets heat shrink/loom/tape/hose/etc. to protect from rubbing through. When wire gets wet and exposed to air it corrodes quick and voltage drops just as quick.
 
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