Electrical issue. What kind of connection is this from Ford?

Cruiseomatic

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What in the world is this? Its about 7 wires pressed together. How can I clean all this, tighten it, and seal it up? I have 2. One here and the other is for the horn that I have found so far. Since my core is shot, No way to get a cab, Figured I'd tackle this while its very easy to get to. I also have 2 connections I need to replace with new quick disconnect water proof. One with 8 pins, Other with 12.

First picture is compressed wires, Second is shot connections that need replaced. Note: The ones in the picture are not off my truck but a boneyard. Worst case, I can rehab these but prefer to replace with better.

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79jasper

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That's pretty standard actually.
Personally I wouldn't mess with it. Maybe some silicone and electrical tape.

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Cruiseomatic

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That's pretty standard actually.
Personally I wouldn't mess with it. Maybe some silicone and electrical tape.

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After a good cleaning then silicone and tape. Stuff is nasty right now. Was talking to momma earlier and she said when she was at the yard, She saw a truck just like mine there with core and still had engine bay harness. Given mine has a damage at the barrel, I could either swap them out completely or cut the end of both one wire at a time and join the two together. It would be SLOW and tedious, but could be done.

So tomorrow after I get paid, I get to go to the toy store. Now If I could only find out what all tools I'd need to pull a cab I could get one for 230 with damaged rocker panels as opposed to 300+. I'll just have to look at it when they open. There is two connectors I need to find replacements for if it is the right one...
I'll have a fun day for sure tomorrow...Get to replace the starter, Possibly get a core, a harness, battery trays, headlights, and more. Just gotta see.
 
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typ4

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That should be a ground junction. Do not use silicone. It likes to corrode copper. Liquid tape is your friend, then wrap with self sealing electrical tape.
 

79jasper

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That should be a ground junction. Do not use silicone. It likes to corrode copper. Liquid tape is your friend, then wrap with self sealing electrical tape.
Didn't know that.
I was thinking liquid electrical tape, just didn't know if it would dry underneath normal tape.
Also I'll have to look up the self sealing tape. Never heard of that.

I think those connections are pressed and soldered. Try ripping one apart, bet you can't. The wires will give before the connection.
If you don't like the looks of it, you better un-loom the whole harness. Pay close attention to the glowplug harness. I know there's a couple more in there. Lol

Towards the end of this video. About the 0800 Mark. https://youtu.be/bad_I1oYQPY


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Cruiseomatic

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Heres how my truck looks currently...Looking like a junkyard truck now....We'll see. Going through harness and everything right now.

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Looking up self sealing tape now that i'm in.
This was supposed to be a DD and I restore the other truck. This is turning into a restoration while the other continues to sit and wait.
Any help is GREATLY appreciated!

Edit:
Now I know what that tape is. I've used it before on plumbing leaks. It was a pain to use. How would I use it on wire like this?
 

IDIoit

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when I did my harness, I used a yellow butt connector.
I cut out the yellow plastic, and crimped the metal piece, then soldered it.
then I used shrink wrap.
they are grounds, FYI
 

IDIoit

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as far as tools, youll want a 5.5mm- 19mm
sockets box end wrenches, and extensions
if the doors are on, bring a 13 mm ratchet wrench.
cant remember the size of the body bolts on the brick, but the OBS cab mounts are 16 MM
you will want to use a 1/2" drive socket with a breaker bar.
bring a bottle of PB blaster.
and if the body bushing spins, you will want a pipe wrench for a 3-4" diameter bushing.
 

OLDBULL8

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Self sealing tape is nothing new. Way way back when in the 40's (even before that) it was called Rubber tape, It had to be used and then wrapped with what was called Friction Tape, any HI voltage over 120 VAC had to be wrapped with Glass Cloth tape first, then the Rubber tape, then the Friction tape. There was no Vinyl Plastic tape back then or shrink wrap. Just goes to show ya how old this ******* is.
 

laserjock

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Silicone sealer is a no-no on most metal parts. Most silicones as they cure produce acid (typically acetic acid). That's why you especially don't use it on body metal.

Keep it in the bathroom. That's what its designed for. ;Sweet
 

79jasper

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Correction, I have used the self sealing electrical tape when installing aerobic systems.
Just didn't know that's what it was at the time. Lol

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Cruiseomatic

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Well, Didn't get to go to the "toy store" or get my check from work today.....Had something come up. Doing all that tomorrow. Was thinking, Since I can, I'll just take my whole tool box with me on a furniture dolly, and bring some cardboard to lay on. Bit nervous about getting a starter or tank from a yard but I'm running out of viable options.
Was finally able to get the DRV side NEG cable off with core and everything out of the way and looked at it.....The insulation is just peeling and cracking off. The copper is fine as is the contacts, Just the insulation is shot to hell. Do I "fix" the insulation or buy a whole new cable? If I get one from the yard it'll probably be just as old and worn. New, I would need 0 gauge correct? I was thinking though, Just for now, I could wrap it up in electrical tape then cover it with same size split loom conduit and run a candy cane wrap all down the length. I have a log of tape I got for a $1.50 from harbor freight. I know its not a permanent or proper fix but it will work I think just to fire her up. My "new" IP will be in tomorrow and 7.3 filter head as well as some other parts.

Other than dropping the tank, How can I "inspect" the inside for rust and what not? I'd be pissed I drop it and its a rust bomb inside. Or a starter, Just because the bendex fires out, doesn't mean its good. Should I risk a yard or spend the 171 and get a new one? Same with a tank. Not getting batteries from a yard....Thats a waste. There is somethings I won't ever get from a yard, thats safety equipment, recovered fluids, batteries, tires, and a couple other things. And yes, I have seen some yards sell old fluids out of junked vehicles. Not even sure if thats legal but I've seen it.
On the compressed ground connections, I'll clean them up good, coat them in liquid tape, then wrap with rubber tape or equivalent. Aslong as like everyone said, the connection is still "perfect" I'll leave it.

And here is the list of what this p.o.s. STILL needs to be finished... Am I stupid, crazy, or determined?

"Both headlight assemblies, core support, battery trays, batteries, belts, injector return line kit ,starter, air filter, wiring harness(maybe), one 12 pin waterproof connector(male&female), one 8 pin, Heater hoses, body bushings (cab and core support), rust free cab, carpet, wiring on trans NSS cleaned and fixed, fuel lines, at least one new tank, fuel pump, tank sending unit, rear LP bracket, paint, tires, brake fluid, PS fluid, trans fluid, transmission (maybe), trans cooler lines, Freon, antifreeze, driver side door handle and window crank, horns(maybe), wiper motor, wiper blades, windshield(maybe), Fender emblems, air intake hose, emergency brake cable, cruise control servo, wire conduit, cowl seal, negative batt cables..."


I should just start a build thread at this point... What do ya'll think?
 
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