7.3 IDI Banks Turbo - E40D in limp mode - No Tach - Help Identify Relays

Just a quick bump for today.

Thanks in advance.

davlun said:

Just a quick bump for today.

Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

Dang it, completely forgot about your, sorry about that. Ok, here we go:

The problem with EVTMs is that they are correct for the most part, but not always - usually it's the wire or connector colors that are off, the circuits are still presented properly only the wires you see aren't the colors the EVTM tells you they should be. Welcome to owning a Ford, the fun is just beginning, wait till you decide to dig into the E4OD harness for bypassing/altering the way the TCM does things - if even half the wires match color you're doing good

Regarding the tow package relay, IIRC the actual battery supply is indeed yellow, the actual ground is solid black, the actual trigger is brown, and the actual load is the black/white. Like I said, welcome to owning a Ford. Do verify all this with a multimeter though:
1) yellow wire should read 12V all the time,
2) brown wire should read 12V when your running lights are on,
3) resistance between black wire and battery's negative terminal should be near zero,
4) hook up a trailer and touch the yellow and black/white wires together and see if trailer running lights turn on.
Do not perform step #4 until you have found the ground wire! If you touch battery to trigger the only thing that will happen is your truck's (and not the trailer's) running lights will power on, but if you touch battery to ground a fusible link may go **** and those are the devil to find and replace. Once you have identified which wire does exactly what start matching up to the new relay box.

The TECA relay wiring, that's another mislabeled disaster. Again yellow should be battery hot, of the others you have TCM (load), key-on iginition (trigger), and ground. Verify which is which just like you did with the towing relay, only this time watch the tach instead of trailer running lights when you jump the wires. If you touch battery to key-on wire you will back-feed into the ignition circuit and you'll hear the FSS and the GPC click on, so no big deal. Touching battery to ground, same as with the towing relay, if you're lucky just a big spark but if you're unlucky its chase your tail time again So please do identify the ground first!

As for wiring the new relay, yes you can usually switch ground and trigger between terminals #85 and #86 on the relay (the thinner wires), won't matter which is which. Same applies to the power/load wires, to a point - for what you're doing it doesn't matter if power is on #30 and load on #87 or the other way around, however do keep in mind that on a 5-terminal relay #30 and #87a (that's the middle terminal) are bridged while the relay is OFF - meaning if you have the power feed on #30 and any wire on #87a that wire will be hot all the time as long as your running lights are off, so you'd be smart to cap said wire off well. Alternatively if you switch the wiring around and power up #87 and load #30, then #87a and #30 are still bridged while the relay is off but since power is fed at #87 which is not connected to anything unless the relay is energized you're safe in that #87a wire will always be dead. Again, since you're not actually using #87a for anything your relay will work properly either way, I just prefer to minimize the amount of unused live wires where possible.

Oh, most your attachments from your last post did not work, I was only able to see the picture of the towing package relay. Additionally, please do realize that I've had the relay box in our trucks for a few years now and the harnesses are taped so I'm only going by what I kinda remember seeing back then... The fact there is a fuse box thrown into the mix doesn't help either!

Updated my pictures, thanks for letting me know.

So there has been a general reluctance on my part to do this, worried about the effects of wiring it wrong and the last couple of weekends did not have a lot of time. Today I took the time to try and put my planned wiring into line with the parts from the junkyard and notices that the 70 uses labels for the pins as 1-5 and the 40 uses the newer 87, 87a, etc.

Looking online to try and find matches, didnt exactly find one, this is a problem when you dont have enough general knowledge to fill in the gaps. So here is my planned swap for old to new:


How does this look? The last thing I need is to chase after some wiring problem I introduce...

Thanks,

David

Bump for today.

David

Bump. Thanks. David

Ok. One last try.

Bump.

I may have some Bosch relays (I'm really bad about hoarding these things) at work that have both naming conventions on the same relay. I'll check for you on Monday.

So cant believe I lost the bottom part that covers the wires as they exit below the main assembly. Going to head to pick a part to get that part, or another whole unit. Your comment on hoarding them makes me think I should pick up another one (or two).

Trying to figure out attachments, standby

mccall52 said:

Trying to figure out attachments, standby

Click to expand...

Here you go.....

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...on-how-to-post-pictures-uploaded-to-the-forum

OK. Found the bottom half of a diff one, looked the same, not much of a selection for big cars out here in SoCal. I also found a 4 relay box, in a single row from a ford van in case things dont match up exactly. The van one, had 3 relays with the fourth spot a diode. Looks like you had problems with attachment, thanks for trying, that was nice of you.

David

If I did this correctly, there should be a (sideways) picture of a relay with both sets of numbers.

1 = 86
2 = 85
3 = 30
4 = n/a
5 = 87

Hope this helps.

That is very nice indeed! Thanks.

Wiring up the diff relay box tomorrow. Will post pics of the swap.

Thanks everyone!

Sorry I kinda dropped the ball on you, I'm not online very often, sometime it's months before I log in. Anyways I found one of the 40/70 relay boxes in our wiring stash, do you still need its colors matched to factory truck wiring or you got it all figured out?

Its ok, I really appreciate the help.

And yes, I could use that exact match up.

I thought I was great, actually clipped some wires, then realized something when staring at the corroded bottom my my existing connection, there were numbers that did not match what his relay showed. His showed 4 was empty, my relay has 4 filled, 5 empty. I am learning a lot though as I tried to do all of our tests.