glow plug relay help

rhkcommander

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try these things for me, for giggles:

Skip the glow plugs, just floor the pedal and crank it over for 10 seconds. Now stop and glow for 10 seconds, then crank and see if it starts: if it does, air intrusion. If not, I'd say those diesel rx plugs suck :dunno , or some unseen problem elsewhere.

I'm using the bullet-type wellmans right now, that is what uhaul had in there. 7 seconds of glow is perfect for my truck tested down to freezing.
i tested one with the battery charger and it took 14 seconds to a full glow and about 12 to get red.
That is wayyy too long. I'd try another brand - never had issues with bosch using manual control - just don't glow too long. Popular with other diesel engine-types but around here its pretty much BERU or die due to the crappier brands having tip problems, which I never had with bosch or recall anyone else having. Beru work great manual too obviously, cost about double though and seem to take longer to get full heat (thats why they work so well with the controller - it can't kill them so easy). I'm probably going to swap out from my dieselrx plugs back to my beru..

how was the custom harness attached together - crimp or solder. Check whatever method you used and make sure either no wires broke loose from cold solder joint or crimp.

grid heaters on cummins aren't necessary, they start pretty good even cold without them - I've used a heat gun plugged into the intake manifold with limited success. It helps but that is a lot of power to heat things up and a lot of cold metal to work through.

how fast does the voltage come back up, and where does it come back to after glowing? Does the truck crank over slow? Certainly wouldn't help if it did and would explain why ether works better - you would have more battery power for cranking if you skip glowplugs for ether. Keep a can in your truck and keep the manual glowplug system - nothing will blow up unless you glow before spraying ether (or obviously use too muchLOL)
 

88beast

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ill give the flood it thing a try, but im going to bleed the lines friday.

as for the harness its butt connectors, but everything is good and tight.

the voltage is around 12v drops to 8 then back to 12 after the glow. the motor spins fine when theres battery power, but low power is a well duh.

i know dont use the 2 combined but one or the other. been there done that many times, im really thinking its air intrusion. i just moved the fuel line from the pass to the drivers side. the carrier pump has a clear housing which is full, but i think there may be some air still.
 

rhkcommander

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ill give the flood it thing a try, but im going to bleed the lines friday.
im really thinking its air intrusion. i just moved the fuel line from the pass to the drivers side. the carrier pump has a clear housing which is full, but i think there may be some air still.

Try cranking it and that will tell you if its air intrusion. I had to start my old engine that way back in the day until I fixed the problem - but taking 15 seconds to glow on those plugs is also way longer than should be. They *should* be red in about 5.
 

88beast

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also noticed something else, i do not have the fsv hooked up, its on front tank, which has fuel. now does the fsv need power to allow fuel by? i have not even found the time to find where its located on my truck yet, but if the valve closes when power is not applied then this may be the issue.
 

79jasper

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I wouldn't say it closes per say.
But it needs power to be held open.
Inside of frame near the front of the front tank. But wedged between the tank and frame. PITA.


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88beast

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jasper thats where i was thinking, ill have to hook that up

thanks
 

88beast

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well cashed out and bought some berus. they should be here tuesday, this is pushing it close. i also left a message for the dieselrx manager to see if they will call back and do something to redeem them selves.

so now to bullet connectors and im not sure if i want to take it back to the controller working yet or not.
 

rhkcommander

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one step at a time. if you do it all at once it makes it harder to diagnose potential problems. pop the new ones in and fix the air intrusion and fsv and you'll probably be good
 

88beast

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well finally figured it all out, turns out the painless harness does not power the coil feed or fuel pump on the start position of the key. now for a full charge and tomorrow it should start fine.
 

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