removing glow plug.

notenuftime

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I'm replacing a glow plug went to unscrew it got all the threads out but wont pull out, it wiggles around a bit cant get it out tho. Am i screwed or am i just doing something wrong, hoping i dont need to drill any thing out cause its the one plug underneath my turbo.
 

sjwelds

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posted in your other thread. Yeah murphy's law that'll be the problem one. May have to end up pulling the turbo. others will chime in I am sure.
 

OLDBULL8

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It's a little dangerous, but you can start the engine and blow it out, if you would do that, put a heavy pile of rags over it to catch the GP, it will come out like a 50 caliber bullet.
 

kcwright1979

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Sorry to hear about your luck other people on this forum have used slide hammers n such my case was not so lucky either. I had one soooo swollen I had to pull the heads and remove the pre chamber to pull it out from the bottom. This was after 4 days of penetrating lube, vise grips and hammer and some wizardry. The PO used autolites, why they even sell them is beyond me.
 

FarmerFrank

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Soak with PB, turn it, soak it, turn it, soak, wiggle, soak, turn, get new can, soak, wiggle AND turn.

If your a dare devil like me, after it's good and soaked put a pair of small vise grips on the hex part and use a small pry bar to give it upward pressure while you wiggle and turn the vice grips. THIS MIGHT BREAK THE TIP OFF THE GLOW PLUG !! Be CAREFUL.

What has happened here is your plug has a swollen tip bigger that the threads.
 

notenuftime

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All done with my injector swap now this, i propose to make Autolites illegal in all 50 states, leave it to the Germans to make a good plug. Might just end up leaving that plug for my diesel mechanic to deal with and replace the other 7 my self......hopefully.
 

Wvdirtroad

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That's going to be tricky. Probably the carbon build up holding it in.. Try soaking it with some pb or something. I had the same issue with injectors so I took an adjustable and tightened it under the hex portion of the body and leveraged off the block.. Using a hammer I was able to tap the end of the wrench and it slowly worked the injector up out. I know the body is pretty narrow on the gp's.not sure if you even have enough room.
 

IDIoit

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i propose to make Autolites illegal in all 50 states, .

good luck with that chuck,
America is only into banning things that dont make a difference.
thats like asking to ban all china products!
LOL
 

Agnem

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Do yourself a huge favor, and move that piston to TDC on the compression stroke. If you loose the tip in there, you will have a chance to blow/suck it out. If the piston is not at TDC, then you are screwed.
 

icanfixall

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Mel.. Really happy you mentioned running the piston to tdc. To the member thats trying to remove the plug. Know this that the gap between the head and the piston is about 40 thousands. So if the tip falls into the cylinder it will crush into the head and piston top. Some imbed into the piston and some blow out the exhaust. Worst case is the tip hangs up in the exhaust seat and then the piston bends the exhaust valve. This is not the norm but a worst case thing. Hope the carbon is the problem but usually autocrapolites swell when they burn out. Champions are not much better too.
 

notenuftime

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Going to try one more time to wiggle it out of there, i cant risk breaking it and loosing it in the head, Already have had my truck under repair for long enough. Ill replace the other 7 GP and leave it for another time, until i discovered i had a broken plug i was running and starting my truck in negative temps and all was fine. To Agnem and Icanfixall if you could explain more on TDC i'm not sure i know what you mean. Is that just meaning getting the piston at the top of its stroke to narrow the gap between the GP and cylinder? how would i do it?.
 

riotwarrior

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Guys guys...

NOTTOlights and CRAPions lmao

If you are forced to leave that gp in DO NOT CONNECT IT BACK UP ELECTRICALLY it may just worsen an already sketchy issue.
 

TahoeTom

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The crank damper has a line on it. The timing plate has a line with a zero on it . You may need to clean things up to see the lines. When the lines match #1 and #4 are at TDC. You will need to divide the circumference of the damper by 4 and mark each quarter. Rotating the damper clockwise 1/4 turn brings 2and 5 to TDC. Another 1/4 turn brings up 7and 6, another 1/4 turn and 3 and 8 are at TDC. Cylinders are numbered 1,3 5,7 on pass side and 2,4,6,8 on drivers side. It sounds like you are dealing with #7.
I saw an add for a glow plug removal tool that was a nut that matched the plug threads that had been cut in half. The threads are metric, 10mm if I recall. By clamping the two nut halves on the glow plug you are extending the threaded portion and you can try to unthread the plug from the nut. You may have to shim between the nut and the head if there is a gap.
If the tip breaks off you may be able to vacuum it out the injector hole while blowing compressed air in the glow plug hole. Having that piston at TDC prevents the tip from going down the cylinder.
 

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