1991 7.3l ATS F-250

DaveBen

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Low voltage causes a LOT of current being needed to run the starter. A slow starter is due to two things; low voltage and not enough current to the starter. You need two brand new batteries of the type rated for your truck. Do NOT get one new battery, you will kill it very quickly. What you have is one battery in two places. All of your cables need to be clean and this includes the negative and ground cables. Clean a spot on the frame where the battery negative cables go to. Shiny metal is good. New cables may be needed. Getting one of these old trucks back in operation is not easy or cheap. Do not cut corners. Winter is coming and you need a truck you can depend on to start every time. After the batteries and cables you need to look at every glow plug and test each one with a meter or a 12v test light. Buy ONLY Motorcraft/Beru glow plugs. ALL the rest are JUNK!
 

Mike_42

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Got 2 new batteries today, going back over there tomorrow to clean the cable ends. 850 CCA 65G
 

rustygold

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After you put the two new battery on it it might take a little bit to start. But if the truck sounds good after it start and warms up then yout good I would change right off the bat all glow plugs and return fuel caps and lines.

Once you get it and is mechanically sound

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Mike_42

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May just get some new connectors, would it be wise to replace injectors as well?
 

rustygold

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It just depends I know someone will tell you how to determine if there bad I replace my pump, Injectors, glow plugs, and fuel caps all at once.

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bbjordan

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you guys may know whats causing the burning near starter? could it be the starter or just a bare wire?

Could be something like this:

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The starter was cranking slowly, made a final puff of smoke, and then it stopped working.
 

Mike_42

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It just depends I know someone will tell you how to determine if there bad I replace my pump, Injectors, glow plugs, and fuel caps all at once.

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Injection pump or fuel pump?
 

icanfixall

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Could be something like this:

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The starter was cranking slowly, made a final puff of smoke, and then it stopped working.

This is an example of a bad cable connection at the starter solenoid. Remember you have nearly 2000 amps running to the starter. My guess is your starter is nearing the end of its useful life. Time for a DB starter from ebay. Many here really like them and they are 100% better than any junk fake ass autoparts store. I run the Mitsubishi gear reduction starters and my engine cranks faster than you can count the revolutions. Sadly mine is showing its age and slowing down. Time for a replacement but I use a well known family run rebuilder I have used for nearly 40 years. When you find a good rebuilder you wont use anyone else.
DO NOT replace the injectors. That will not help start this engine. You may find later on both the injectors and injection pump will need replacing but run it first. Get some feel for it. Then ask here. Ebay has some crooks that sell fake rebuilt injectors and injection pumps. Please do not buy before asking here first. This forum has thousands of members watching and know very well what is available at a fair cost. This is a very honest forum that "learned the hard way"... I too have been cheated several times with parts. If the battery cable ends wont clamp down fight to the battery posts just use a couple of small C clamps but remember to remove them when closing the hood. 200 amps will burn a hole thru the hood sheet metal quicker than you think. The note about replacing BOTH batteries is true. If you replace one and have another low or bad battery the new fully charged battery tries to fill the bad low low battery. Essentially what happens is both batteries end up low or ruined. Think of a fully charged battery like a bucket of water. Now run a hose from the full bucket of water to an mt bucket of water. See the water fill the other bucket??? That's what happens with a new and old battery. The full one tries to bring the old one up to the same charge level but it can't. Best you get is 2 low charged batteries that barely or wont start the engine.
 

Mike_42

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This is an example of a bad cable connection at the starter solenoid. Remember you have nearly 2000 amps running to the starter. My guess is your starter is nearing the end of its useful life. Time for a DB starter from ebay. Many here really like them and they are 100% better than any junk fake ass autoparts store. I run the Mitsubishi gear reduction starters and my engine cranks faster than you can count the revolutions. Sadly mine is showing its age and slowing down. Time for a replacement but I use a well known family run rebuilder I have used for nearly 40 years. When you find a good rebuilder you wont use anyone else.
DO NOT replace the injectors. That will not help start this engine. You may find later on both the injectors and injection pump will need replacing but run it first. Get some feel for it. Then ask here. Ebay has some crooks that sell fake rebuilt injectors and injection pumps. Please do not buy before asking here first. This forum has thousands of members watching and know very well what is available at a fair cost. This is a very honest forum that "learned the hard way"... I too have been cheated several times with parts. If the battery cable ends wont clamp down fight to the battery posts just use a couple of small C clamps but remember to remove them when closing the hood. 200 amps will burn a hole thru the hood sheet metal quicker than you think. The note about replacing BOTH batteries is true. If you replace one and have another low or bad battery the new fully charged battery tries to fill the bad low low battery. Essentially what happens is both batteries end up low or ruined. Think of a fully charged battery like a bucket of water. Now run a hose from the full bucket of water to an mt bucket of water. See the water fill the other bucket??? That's what happens with a new and old battery. The full one tries to bring the old one up to the same charge level but it can't. Best you get is 2 low charged batteries that barely or wont start the engine.

Thank you, gunna go back over today and find the burning and replace the clamps. Let you guys know, probably have a video.
 

IDIoit

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It just depends I know someone will tell you how to determine if there bad I replace my pump, Injectors, glow plugs, and fuel caps all at once.

im with rusty. replace every goddamnf'ing part at once.
from the shower heads, to the FSV, to the fuel lift pump(mechanical swapped to electric), to the fuel filter housing and filter, to the IP and injectors.
followed by every fuel and return line & caps.
things may not need to be replaced, but the fuel system is very important, and I like to know the history on mine.
I absolutely hate fuel issues with these trucks. go through it once. and be done with it
when working on a old truck, you will find 1 problem and fix it, followed by another issue, and on and on and on. been there, done that. no more for me.
I have other issues I need to resolve tho lol so again, if its not one thing, its another.


The starter still works, I think its a wire burning or something.

your starter may work, but I guarantee it is done. it may crank over, but its not cranking enough.
get a new starter, trust me it wont disappoint.
odds are that smoke you see, isn't really smoke at all, its the magical demons that used to live inside your starter...

just like the fuel system, your 12V+ and grounds are VERY IMPORTANT.
if you do new connections and see green copper, the entire cable needs replaced.
 

Mike_42

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Checked all cables, wires, grounds and fuses. Starter is getting 13v but not turning quick enough. Do you guys have a link for a recommended starter?

Also how can I make sure its getting fuel?

Thanks
 
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IDIoit

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its a open debated soap opera when asking opinions on starters.
gear reduction is what you want.
I run a powermaster

schrader valve (air fitting) on the fuel header is where you purge air, until you get fuel.
if you have fuel there, guess what.. you have fuel :D
 
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