03wr250f
Full Access Member
My traction bar build
I began thinking about building a set of ladder bars about 2-3 years ago. I loved the way they looked and wanted some in the worst way. I convinced myself to simply start drawing various designs and eventually I had to put them down because I couldn’t see it happening for a long time. I decided to put money into other aspects of the truck.
I began by first researching this mighty heavily and it still wasn’t enough but after much deciding I came to the conclusion of not ladder bars but instead a single traction bar. Then next came what to build it out of. I decided to first by the joints and use them as my point to start building from. I bought some ¾’’ poly bushings off eBay for $40. They came with weld in bungs, a jam nut, and the bushing itself. I was pretty stoked…but I forgot to pay attention and misread the size on them. I went and bought 2’’ dom tubing 1.5’’ id, my weld in bungs were 1.5 OD see the problem. I had done much reading on materials and had decided on dom, but since it was no longer going to work (and I had already bought the busing I am cheap like that.) I bought some schedule 80 pipe instead. Its 3/16’’ wall and 1.25 id which is what I needed. Several people had used pipe before but some had mentioned flexing the pipe and even dom. I said fine and began thinking of ways to help with no flex. I moved on through to get my next ends because I only had two and needed 4
I went to chassis unlimited for most of my parts on suggestion of a buddy of mine. I bought 2 rod ends to fit with the bungs I already had and then 2 more complete heims. I also bought the frame bracket and axle brackets from them.
I began sizing up the project to see how it was going to fit and how I wanted it all to lay. I determined that my axle brackets were going to split the u bolts and in between the u bolt and the shock mount. I then noticed my frame mount was exactly as wide as my frame. I then looked at various traction bar mounts online and found many were set out from the frame some. I liked the idea because even though the heims have misalignment bushings that allow them to be at an angle and articulate fine I wanted it to be a straighter line from axle to frame.
Frame bracket:
I had my dad cut me out 2 plates from ¼’’ steel. He has a water jet and this was all scraps I found lying around. I made them as long as the frame mount was and then went a ¼’’ longer and wider on each side than it was as well so that when I welded it to the pieces of ¼’’ I had room for welding. I then welded the heim mount to one piece of the flat stock and then had my dad cut another out that was as wide as the bottom on and then 3-3/4’’ tall so that I could attach it to the frame side and have some added stability. I set the bottom half of the bracket with heim mount welded to it on the bottom side of the frame and then set it out ¼’’ from the inside end of the frame. This allowed me some meat to weld on to from the frame to the bracket. I then marked where the vertical piece needed to weld to the bottom part of bracket. I then duplicated the same process on the other side. I had him when he was water jetting the vertical plate cut out 2x 5/8’’ holes out so if I wanted to down the road I could also bolt the frame mount.
Gusset:
My dad had some 3/16” flat stock also laying around. I decided that 1-3/4’’ would be tall enough for the gusseting because that was the same as the diameter of the pipe (o.d.). I then had him cut a 30 ish degree angle into the ends to simply give some flair and not have a square end on it. Any traction bars online that I saw with gussets all did that and it looks good in my opinion. I then added 3x 1.25’’ holes on each end of the gussets simply for flair. I then had my dad cut in the word BABE. That is my trucks name, babe the blue ox, because as most of you know idis can pull the mountain with them but not fast; and my truck is blue. I also did the holes and lettering ½’’ smaller so that I had plenty of meat on each side and did not compromise the structural integrity too much, even though push comes to shove the lettering since it is in the middle will probably be where it bends. I think and that was my thoughts in designing them was to over build them so I don’t have problems like bending.
Traction bars:
I then filed down the weld on the pipe and put my bung ends in the pipe. I then centered them as much and as best I could. I then tacked them and checked straightness. I then fully welded them. After those cooled I then made sure I had the correct opposite end in the other end of the pipe. VERY IMPORTANT IF YOU HAVE RIGHT HAND AND LEFT HAND THREADS! I spent a good amount of time trying to verify that I had them correct because I wanted and did get it right the first time! I then tacked the other end in and again verified that the ends were in the proper locations and adjusted properly. (SIDE NOTE: I mounted and welded on the frame bracket before I welded the other end on because I had to determine exactly how long they needed be so I could cut it before welding in the end.) I then fully welded the other end. After that cooled I then figured out the opposite side of the factory weld in making the pipe and sanded off the coating and marked out the center of it and then tacked the gussets on in the center of the pipe. I set up rolls of electrical tape along the gusset because it perfectly centered the gusset in the pipe and allowed me to make sure the gusset was straight flat stock likes to have curves. I did this for both of the pipes and then realized I put one on wrong luckily it was only tacked because the lettering was backwards. I then rectified it. I then fully welded those on by welding about 1.5’’ and then 1.5’’ of spacing on both sides and checked everything for being right and straight.
I have the transfer case metal guard on my truck so I went back I believe 1’’ from it to allow me to weld the frame bracket all the way around it. I then put the heim in the end of the pipe and bolted it in so I could get an idea of how long the bars needed to be with the ends in and also where the axle brackets needed to be welded on. Continuing on after the bar was cut and the end welded in. I then put the second heim in and determined where the axle brackets went. I would suggest if you are wanting to do them yourself I would use a plum bob to get them as vertical as possible because then you have the most leverage on the axle. I tried to do that but I ended up cutting the bar about 1/8’’ to short so I ended up putting the heim in the end and finding where they set best and tacked them on. I had previously cleaned the places on the axle off for welding and a ground. I used the shock mount for a ground. I had a set amount of the heim threads I wanted in the bung so that is why I left it at being slightly short. I was off by a few degrees so I said oh well. And like everything else I have like 1-1/4’’ in the bung. Yes its overkill but I like it like that. I tried welding the axle brackets on but I was unhappy with how my little buzzbox was doing it. I said screw it and had cooper fab do it because they do great work. I ground off what I tried welding so that cooper fab wouldn’t have crap to deal with.
I then ground off and metal finished the ends of the weld and rewelded them and finished them so they were smooth. I did leave witness marks so I wasn’t taking of the base material. After all of the welding and finishing I then let it cool. I then began sanding and cleaning the metal for primer. I then primed them with 2 coats with self-etching primer so that any of the coating was still on it would adhere to the metal. I then applied several coats of rustoleum and then sanded and then painted and sanded and painted until I was happy.
I then when I installed them I loosened them up until I was able to bolt them in to the mounts. I then tightened each one 1 full turn longer to preload them. I tightened them down and then drove around the block normally and then came back and retightened them. I then took them out and actually tested them. Oh man I love them you can definitely tell they are there simply in the fact that I had a little more stability in the rear end. I noticed that it felt very planted and corned the same but very stable. Another wonderful thing I noticed is that it shifts way smother and I can shift way faster. I talked to a friend and he said that it is because the axle does not have the ability to slap back and forth in between shifts. I have tried to flex it on several curbs and other such holes. I noticed I really like them and have no problems articulating. Yes inherently with a bar that attaches to the frame and axle there will be some binding but I haven’t found any problems with them in the few days I have had them. I have definitely noticed that they live up to their name…traction. Every time you get on it you can feel it simply sit and get! Corning is great, nice and planted and I didn’t think it was bad before. I was only able to get the tires to break loose once, even though I can’t usually get them to break loose because of axle hop. When they broke loose I was coming around a corner and cranked it hard and got on it. I got a full revolution of the tires before it just propelled me forward. No harsh grab or anything simply go.
Parts:
$70 In 16’ schedule 80 pipe cut into two 8’ chunks
$40 into original bushings and bungs.
$120 into new heim joints 2 heims, 2 heim kits (hiem, jam nut, misalignment bushings, bung)
$50 into brackets: heavy duty 3/8’’ axle brackets x2 (sold in pairs for a total of 4)
Frame mount 1.75 wide. ¼’’ thick.
$50 into welding: I had a local fab shop weld my axle brackets.
$22 into grade 8 5/8’’ bolts 3-1/2’’ long
$20 into black paint
$5 primer
Additional
3/16’’ flat stock 60’’ long
¼’’ flat stock
500 & 1000 grit sand paper
Patience
Welder
Wire wheel
Grinder
Sanding disks
Cut off wheel
Any questions? I tried to be pretty thorough to give info to other wanting to do the same or similar.
I began thinking about building a set of ladder bars about 2-3 years ago. I loved the way they looked and wanted some in the worst way. I convinced myself to simply start drawing various designs and eventually I had to put them down because I couldn’t see it happening for a long time. I decided to put money into other aspects of the truck.
I began by first researching this mighty heavily and it still wasn’t enough but after much deciding I came to the conclusion of not ladder bars but instead a single traction bar. Then next came what to build it out of. I decided to first by the joints and use them as my point to start building from. I bought some ¾’’ poly bushings off eBay for $40. They came with weld in bungs, a jam nut, and the bushing itself. I was pretty stoked…but I forgot to pay attention and misread the size on them. I went and bought 2’’ dom tubing 1.5’’ id, my weld in bungs were 1.5 OD see the problem. I had done much reading on materials and had decided on dom, but since it was no longer going to work (and I had already bought the busing I am cheap like that.) I bought some schedule 80 pipe instead. Its 3/16’’ wall and 1.25 id which is what I needed. Several people had used pipe before but some had mentioned flexing the pipe and even dom. I said fine and began thinking of ways to help with no flex. I moved on through to get my next ends because I only had two and needed 4
I went to chassis unlimited for most of my parts on suggestion of a buddy of mine. I bought 2 rod ends to fit with the bungs I already had and then 2 more complete heims. I also bought the frame bracket and axle brackets from them.
I began sizing up the project to see how it was going to fit and how I wanted it all to lay. I determined that my axle brackets were going to split the u bolts and in between the u bolt and the shock mount. I then noticed my frame mount was exactly as wide as my frame. I then looked at various traction bar mounts online and found many were set out from the frame some. I liked the idea because even though the heims have misalignment bushings that allow them to be at an angle and articulate fine I wanted it to be a straighter line from axle to frame.
Frame bracket:
I had my dad cut me out 2 plates from ¼’’ steel. He has a water jet and this was all scraps I found lying around. I made them as long as the frame mount was and then went a ¼’’ longer and wider on each side than it was as well so that when I welded it to the pieces of ¼’’ I had room for welding. I then welded the heim mount to one piece of the flat stock and then had my dad cut another out that was as wide as the bottom on and then 3-3/4’’ tall so that I could attach it to the frame side and have some added stability. I set the bottom half of the bracket with heim mount welded to it on the bottom side of the frame and then set it out ¼’’ from the inside end of the frame. This allowed me some meat to weld on to from the frame to the bracket. I then marked where the vertical piece needed to weld to the bottom part of bracket. I then duplicated the same process on the other side. I had him when he was water jetting the vertical plate cut out 2x 5/8’’ holes out so if I wanted to down the road I could also bolt the frame mount.
Gusset:
My dad had some 3/16” flat stock also laying around. I decided that 1-3/4’’ would be tall enough for the gusseting because that was the same as the diameter of the pipe (o.d.). I then had him cut a 30 ish degree angle into the ends to simply give some flair and not have a square end on it. Any traction bars online that I saw with gussets all did that and it looks good in my opinion. I then added 3x 1.25’’ holes on each end of the gussets simply for flair. I then had my dad cut in the word BABE. That is my trucks name, babe the blue ox, because as most of you know idis can pull the mountain with them but not fast; and my truck is blue. I also did the holes and lettering ½’’ smaller so that I had plenty of meat on each side and did not compromise the structural integrity too much, even though push comes to shove the lettering since it is in the middle will probably be where it bends. I think and that was my thoughts in designing them was to over build them so I don’t have problems like bending.
Traction bars:
I then filed down the weld on the pipe and put my bung ends in the pipe. I then centered them as much and as best I could. I then tacked them and checked straightness. I then fully welded them. After those cooled I then made sure I had the correct opposite end in the other end of the pipe. VERY IMPORTANT IF YOU HAVE RIGHT HAND AND LEFT HAND THREADS! I spent a good amount of time trying to verify that I had them correct because I wanted and did get it right the first time! I then tacked the other end in and again verified that the ends were in the proper locations and adjusted properly. (SIDE NOTE: I mounted and welded on the frame bracket before I welded the other end on because I had to determine exactly how long they needed be so I could cut it before welding in the end.) I then fully welded the other end. After that cooled I then figured out the opposite side of the factory weld in making the pipe and sanded off the coating and marked out the center of it and then tacked the gussets on in the center of the pipe. I set up rolls of electrical tape along the gusset because it perfectly centered the gusset in the pipe and allowed me to make sure the gusset was straight flat stock likes to have curves. I did this for both of the pipes and then realized I put one on wrong luckily it was only tacked because the lettering was backwards. I then rectified it. I then fully welded those on by welding about 1.5’’ and then 1.5’’ of spacing on both sides and checked everything for being right and straight.
I have the transfer case metal guard on my truck so I went back I believe 1’’ from it to allow me to weld the frame bracket all the way around it. I then put the heim in the end of the pipe and bolted it in so I could get an idea of how long the bars needed to be with the ends in and also where the axle brackets needed to be welded on. Continuing on after the bar was cut and the end welded in. I then put the second heim in and determined where the axle brackets went. I would suggest if you are wanting to do them yourself I would use a plum bob to get them as vertical as possible because then you have the most leverage on the axle. I tried to do that but I ended up cutting the bar about 1/8’’ to short so I ended up putting the heim in the end and finding where they set best and tacked them on. I had previously cleaned the places on the axle off for welding and a ground. I used the shock mount for a ground. I had a set amount of the heim threads I wanted in the bung so that is why I left it at being slightly short. I was off by a few degrees so I said oh well. And like everything else I have like 1-1/4’’ in the bung. Yes its overkill but I like it like that. I tried welding the axle brackets on but I was unhappy with how my little buzzbox was doing it. I said screw it and had cooper fab do it because they do great work. I ground off what I tried welding so that cooper fab wouldn’t have crap to deal with.
I then ground off and metal finished the ends of the weld and rewelded them and finished them so they were smooth. I did leave witness marks so I wasn’t taking of the base material. After all of the welding and finishing I then let it cool. I then began sanding and cleaning the metal for primer. I then primed them with 2 coats with self-etching primer so that any of the coating was still on it would adhere to the metal. I then applied several coats of rustoleum and then sanded and then painted and sanded and painted until I was happy.
I then when I installed them I loosened them up until I was able to bolt them in to the mounts. I then tightened each one 1 full turn longer to preload them. I tightened them down and then drove around the block normally and then came back and retightened them. I then took them out and actually tested them. Oh man I love them you can definitely tell they are there simply in the fact that I had a little more stability in the rear end. I noticed that it felt very planted and corned the same but very stable. Another wonderful thing I noticed is that it shifts way smother and I can shift way faster. I talked to a friend and he said that it is because the axle does not have the ability to slap back and forth in between shifts. I have tried to flex it on several curbs and other such holes. I noticed I really like them and have no problems articulating. Yes inherently with a bar that attaches to the frame and axle there will be some binding but I haven’t found any problems with them in the few days I have had them. I have definitely noticed that they live up to their name…traction. Every time you get on it you can feel it simply sit and get! Corning is great, nice and planted and I didn’t think it was bad before. I was only able to get the tires to break loose once, even though I can’t usually get them to break loose because of axle hop. When they broke loose I was coming around a corner and cranked it hard and got on it. I got a full revolution of the tires before it just propelled me forward. No harsh grab or anything simply go.
Parts:
$70 In 16’ schedule 80 pipe cut into two 8’ chunks
$40 into original bushings and bungs.
$120 into new heim joints 2 heims, 2 heim kits (hiem, jam nut, misalignment bushings, bung)
$50 into brackets: heavy duty 3/8’’ axle brackets x2 (sold in pairs for a total of 4)
Frame mount 1.75 wide. ¼’’ thick.
$50 into welding: I had a local fab shop weld my axle brackets.
$22 into grade 8 5/8’’ bolts 3-1/2’’ long
$20 into black paint
$5 primer
Additional
3/16’’ flat stock 60’’ long
¼’’ flat stock
500 & 1000 grit sand paper
Patience
Welder
Wire wheel
Grinder
Sanding disks
Cut off wheel
Any questions? I tried to be pretty thorough to give info to other wanting to do the same or similar.
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