ATS Turbo Questions 7.3 IDI

Hi, I am a noob to diesels, I just purchased a 92' F350 with an ATS turbo kit (the 088 I believe) non wastegated model.

The turbo compressor wheel has play in it, but no contact with the housing yet or anything bad.

I want to rebuild the turbo, and I have contacted a few places for rebuild kits and haven't heard back yet. I am seeking a rebuild kit, or I am not opposed to using a stock powerstroke turbo as I see them for less than a rebuild around here. The truck needs other work, so I would rather not spend $1000 on a turbo, or another kit at this time.

A few other questions:

How does the turbo regulate boost pressure with no wastegate? RPM?

What other turbos will bolt onto the ATS exhaust manifold?

And it is a bad idea to scrap that huge filter box for a different intake/filter?

I have a lot of experience with gas engines and what not, I am a welder/fabricator machinist, so I don't mind making parts and I have an addiction to tinkering (not if it is a bad plan of course).

Any help is great, looking forward to getting the truck driving for winter time in Colorado (and not I am not a pothead)


Rick

How much play? Journal bearing turbos rely on riding a film of pressurized oil to center the shaft. Without oil pressure, they will show play. Use a dial indicator zeroed with the turbine at rest and then pushing it toward the gauge.

Without a wastegate, boost is not "controlled." It's just a fairly linear function of exhaust flow. Not very ideal but functional with the right size turbo.

I can't speak to your other questions.

I'll have to check it with an indicator, I'd guess maybe a little over 1/16" total play from one side to the other, but that was just by hand guessing. Is there a spec as far as play is concerned?

Thanks for the relpy!

Rick

Spec varies by turbo... that's the hard part to find. If you can push it to make contact with the housing it's definitely done. Try taking off the compressor housing (gently, don't nick the wheel) and check for "interference polished" areas. If you see any oil seeping out under the wheel with the housing off, the seal is toast.

The seal is probably done, I pulled the airbox, and the turbo had oil sitting by the compressor wheel...

See if it's from the CDR (not exactly sure on turbo idi plumbing). If the cdr tube looks clean, I'd suspect the turbo.

If the cdr tube has oil, route it as a road draft tube. Clean the turbo and drive a bit to see if the oil reappears.

I had the same oily turbo scare on the low pressure turbo of my 6.4 and SRT-4

The cdr is the oil separator correct? The tube from that to the airbox is kinda broken, and it looked like it leaked oil all over the top of the engine....

Yes, and that may be the source. Route it down to the ground with some vinyl tubing. Clean the turbo with carb cleaner and let it dry then run about a bit. Excess oil from the CDR may indicate high blowby from worn rings

Contact either typ4 or agnem on this site. Russ rebuilds these and can usually modify the hell out of them. He is located in Oregon. Mel owns Conestoga Diesel injection in Pa and will do everything from a complete turbo engine to a simple set of injectors. Both of these are long time members here that have done a good fair business for a long time. I consider both of them good friends of mine. If I knew of a good ebay seller or another shop I would post that too but its hard to find good fair people or shops. Just a few days ago a new member here threw a rod and needs and engine installed tha he has. The shop he found wants nearly $4000.00 plus parts to drop in said engine plus wet materials and environmental fees. they say its a 40 hour job... I can't post what I feel about this cost but figure its not nice.

The post above has great contacts that could likely get you a reasonable end-play spec on the turbo, and rebuild work if needed

Cool, I'll do a road draft tube, do I need a breather filter on the tube? Or is it ok to just have it open?

As far as throwing a rod, well I hope that doesn't happen! Going to do glow plugs on it tomorrow (mororcraft of course) and a fuel filter.

Do those 2 guys you recommend offer a kit? Or just a service?

Thanks!

Rick

I run an open one on my 6.4. It should never have vacuum.

Warm it up before the fuel filter change and fill the new filter with diesel, ATF, or Diesel-Kleen

It would be a service. You would send them your turbo, they would work their magic, and ship it back. I have not had a turbo worked on by them personally, but several have and are VERY happy with the results. I know Mel personally and have been talking with him about an issue I have on my VW Bosch VE pump and the resolution. I will be contacting him shortly to get my problem fixed.

Just personal preference, I would never do a RDT.
You can build a separator.
I'm sure the 6.4 will never come close to having as much blowby as an idi will.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

I can figure something out on the cdr issue... I'm mainly worried about the turbo. I would like to rebuild it if possible, I know it should be balanced, but I can have a local shop do that as well. Mostly worried about down time as winter is coming up fast, and...well this is the only car I have with heat in it.

Is there any issues with swapping the intake system out and going straight pipe and over boosting? Never have liked quiet vehicles... haha

Thanks for the tip about the fuel filter, I'll get some diesel kleen and run that!

Rick