Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

thats average, more than half was unloaded

ordered the spectra from AZ, 215 with tax shipped to my door with the 20% discount code. Lifetime warranty. Figure if i sent in my all aluminum rad back to those ebay guys, i gotta pay 80 buclks for shipping (plus ne wone is 20$ mor eexpensive) so im out 100$, adn then if it lets go again in 2-3 years, im out another 100 plus time down etc... **** it..got one local, worst case I can have a new one in a day or 2 and no shipping$$ needed.

now im just sitting here at work wiating for the local fed ex to receive my new s366 turbo so i can run over and pick it up. Mock it up tonight to see what mods to the up pipe collector I need to make. going with JIC drain hose fittings, i HATE npt stuff, and the silicone drain hose was starting to harden a bit from the heat.. Works got the nice hydraulic drimper and hose, I just need to find the appropriate ends. its not a nice area to work in under the turbo for the oil drain..)
Anyway, going to be finishing my bumper finally, then got some nice 6" LED strips to go in as interior lights, put that interior back together, and use LCAM's dual relay advise for the heating.

PS should I tie the electric vacuum pump in with the blower on? If the system is tight, and i have a small reservoir, i shoudl be able to cycle the vents a few times before even having to turn on the blower to get the pump to activate right?

ohhhh baby..



turbine housing is definitly larger than hx35, compressor housing a bit bigger, 3" cold side exit vs 2", 3" v band exhaust vs 2.5" much better improved blade design.

should be around 300whp/650ish rwtq

That's a real nice shiny wheel. Should be good for more that 300/650 tho, after all we know proper shiny bling adds like 400hp and 800tq at the least!

In all seriousness, with a bigger pump close to 400 is definitly possible. eventually will go with a 110 but not u till i either have a boatload of cash drop into
My lap or the current ip starts failing, too many other bills! if this really lays down close to 300 i think i will feel very happy with it..for a while. Honestly..clutch might be next weakest link

Brother, I'm thinking you're getting a bit too carried away chasing the big power. Which is just fine if you actually need it (like, pulling a big trailer day in and day out), but you don't do that, at least not yet, right? Therefore I believe you should probably drop the new hair blower in and call it good. You seen our POS, we take that thing like all over the country, and it still lacks forced induction. Low power ain't stopping us from going places tho, the fuel pedal fun is good and all, but memories made out there tend to last a wee bit longer Basically where I'm getting at is your non-engine activities sound like a solid plan, go for them. Then grab that nice lady of yours and head out for the weekend every chance you get - weather's gonna go poopy on you soon enough, make the best of what you got left of the season.

On your previous question that I missed till just now, yes I do think tying the vacuum pump into the blower motor power feed could work decent. Unless you have cruise control, I forgot, do you? If no cruise then all you need the pump for is the HVAC, so yeah you can hook it up together with the blower motor. Actually how does the pump operate exactly - it has its own vacuum switch to turn a relay on and off for the pump motor, but said switch is supplied power only during key-on? If that's the case then I see no issue in using the trigger signal for the blower power relay as a signal feed for the pump vacuum switch as well - she'll cycle on and off as needed only when the blower is running, but that's just when you need it to run, so all is good. Now if you do have factory cruise then you need to give the pump vacuum switch its own dedicated key-on signal, as it is possible to need the pump for the cruise while you're, well, cruising with the windows down and HVAC turned off.

Lcam, absolutely right..power is like a drug.. Want more and more..the one thinf im telling myself this turbo will help is drive pressure. Should be 1:1 at same boost pressure the hx was making which was probably near 2.5+:1. So less stress om the gaskets..shell be back on the road in a couple weeks. Wife wants to do some
Winter wheeling

Not an expert in that matter by any means, and the person who has the proper experience I've had enough of her ramblings for one day so I dare not open that can of worms by asking her, but still - it was my understanding that actual 1:1 is kinda hard to achieve? Do you have a gauge that measures your drive pressure to know what's actually going on in there?

Im going purely off of what justin said when he ran this exact turbo on keith olins truck. Before they were using a12cm hx35-i have a 14, so he was seeing almost 3:1 with the hx, and got to
Nearly 1:1 from jusy the turbo swap.27lbs drive to 25lbs boost i believe. This was with his j2 cam and rd90 pump so the pump fuels a little harder up top than a stock curved one.
Wouldnt be too hard for the drive pressure gauge, tap in pre turbine, length of copper wire and there is a type of insulator that will thread on to the end of the copper pipe and alow you to use regular nylon 1/8" afterwards to commect it to a normal
Boost gauhe

Ah, ok, so it's actually a tried and hashed-out setup. Alright, nvm then, carry on!

There's a dual boost/back pressure sensor that isn't a lot.
I can find it if you're interested.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

no need, thank you for the offer though. Trying to save my pennies for mustang build, meanwhile just got a gallon of herculiner to do my floor with. the metal shield isnt holding up too well to the under foot area in the driver side. Going to clean everythign real nice tonight, probably roll on the bedliner tomorrow. T4 flange and AN fittings will be next monday so I have all this week and weekend to put new rad in (should be here today) do my interor cab lighting, put the headlienr and ABC pillars back in, dual relay blower mod with vaccuum pump (yes LCAM, it is a self regulating one), and put the new block heater and mount the cord nice.
Heres a side by side pic of old vs new turbo, and the new glow plug harnesses I made I like this friction tape stuff, dont know its thermal limitations however. The e tape underneath it is good to 190F i believe.
Also had to send back the BHAF, i jsut dont have room for it. going with a 4" outlet AEM dryflow cone.

Autozone rAd came in, it is in fact a 2 core..well see how it does..i dont like that the drain **** ismon thenother side, didnt see what thread pitch but i think its something huge so you cant put your own drain **** on it.. Hmm. These damn plastic tanks cant mod em hoe you want wm.



Old


New

Reminds us again, why are you swapping rads?

i love spending money!
not..

Old one was seeping where the tubes meet the end tanks. Started on the right lower corner, i ws able to match it with some liquid devcon epoxy, then a month later the other side started seeping, and eventually both started seeping. The colder it was outside the more it seeped. Was fine when warm adn running, but I dont want to come outside one winter morning iwth a gallon of coolant on the ground..