Dead Pyro?

crash-harris

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Didn't check continuity specifically, but yes, 0 ohms, leads are red (-) and yellow (+), ISSPRO R658 - K-type - 1600*F. It was a brand new one, but was an ebay purchase, so I'm thinking it may have been mishandled. If it's still acting the same tomorrow then I think I'll order another of the same (for now, a bit cheaper), but from Diesel Manor and see how long that one lasts.
 

crash-harris

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It was a little more responsive this morning, but still not trustworthy. Going to see if there is a difference on the way home with normal outside temps to judge by, but I'm guessing I'll be ordering a probe when I get home.
 

crash-harris

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Ok, replaced the thermocouple yesterday and watched it today, specifically in the heat on the way home. Pyrometer now reads more like normal temps at cruising, but it is still hanging up at about 350*, 550*, 900* and 1050*. I'm guessing the extension harness also got heat soaked and is causing the remaining problems.

Ideas?
 

BDCarrillo

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This stupid nut on the back of my banks gauge came loose, and the needle would stick at odd places and float all over. It appears to set a preload, or calibrate, the resting position via a spiral wound spring that fights the input of the magnetic coil.


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crash-harris

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I tapped the gauge leads with a battery (AAA) and it swung the needle smoothly (quickly), but vibration was my very first thought when this all started.

No info on fixing/recalibrating the nut and getting the gauge apart without breaking it?
 

BDCarrillo

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I used a big flat screwdriver to slowly peel back the rolled over edges of the trim ring, then it all comes out pretty easily.

I don't have a clue on calibration. Intuitively it should rest on zero, but I doubt that's the case.

Just wanted to point out that vibes can kill a gauge, but your first pyro probe readings were definitely wonky.

I'm reusing the body/glass/bezel for a digital pyro & boost gauge.
 

crash-harris

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Knowing how to get into it is half the battle. It looks like I'll just be dealing with this one until I can get a new one, then open the new gauge up and drop some super glue or loctite that air cures on that nut.

Now that I think about it, I can bet that 3rd gear downshifting is to blame. Slowly releasing the clutch with the Autozone SMF conversion causes a hell of a vibration. I just recently got the technique down to avoid it (fast clutch drop for the first half of peddle travel, then ease into it). It would vibrate the dash and all.
 

BDCarrillo

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I can't guarantee that's the issue with your isspro gauge... just saying that it's a possibility.

Send me your isspro and I'll gut it and make it a digital pyro. You can be a version 2 guinea pig for the cost of shipping.
 

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Looks like things are solved on this thread; it caught my eye as my ISSPRO pyro was doing almost the same thing. The eye terminals from the probe to the extension wiring was/is my problem, the bolted connections are tight, and insulated from each other, but that design isn't too good apparently, as anytime my pyro acts up, I just manipulate those connections, and all is good for a long while. I was considering getting rid of those bolted ring terminals, and doing anything more substantial.
 

crash-harris

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I've moved my extension harness all over the place trying to get a change it of it to no avail. I'm guessing it's the gauge. The AAA battery test is just to make sure it responds, but that's, what, 1.5V? The needle pegs hard and fast. Maybe I'll try a smaller button cell battery and stack them to watch the needle move slower. With as bad as the 3rd gear downshift vibration was (rather violent) I'm sure that's what caused it. That was my initial gut feeling anyway.
 

BDCarrillo

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Most button cells are also 1.5v. You'd have to test it in the millivolt range... voltage divider with a potentiometer and you could evaluate it further for oddities in the sweep.
 

laserjock

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Most button cells are also 1.5v. You'd have to test it in the millivolt range... voltage divider with a potentiometer and you could evaluate it further for oddities in the sweep.
This^^^

I'm putting this type connector in line on mine.

http://www.omega.com/googlebase/product.html?pn=SMPW-CC-T-F&gclid=CMXmupzlkc4CFQNZhgodKhYFnw

If you notice there is a little brass insert there in the center of both male and female connectors. They make a doo dad that uses those to bolt the thing together so it won't come unplugged.
 

BDCarrillo

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This^^^

I'm putting this type connector in line on mine.

http://www.omega.com/googlebase/product.html?pn=SMPW-CC-T-F&gclid=CMXmupzlkc4CFQNZhgodKhYFnw

If you notice there is a little brass insert there in the center of both male and female connectors. They make a doo dad that uses those to bolt the thing together so it won't come unplugged.

Heads up, that connector is for a T-type thermocouple, not K. Different metals, different response, changes in voltage differential.
 

laserjock

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Typically type k is yellow and T is blue in omega stuff. I didn't read the fine print but yes I'm aware of the different metals in the contacts. I was referring mainly to the form factor.

Hope I didn't cause any confusion.

Edit: if you read the fine print in the picture, it has part numbers that correspond to type k rather than type T even though the description says type T.
 
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