Return line questions? Help im lost.

I am working on putting on my return lines on my 89 Ford 7.3 IDI. I got to looking at it and there is a metal hard line running down the driver side of the intake manifold that has another rubber return line on it. it takes and goes off down by the transmission. I'm assuming it goes back to the tank but I have not had a chance to look at it. I figured it would need to be replaced but I wanted to ask before I did. I am trying to eat eliminate all possibilities of air intrusion.

Second question I bought the BWD return line kit from O'Reilly's it is the later style return line. I previously had the early style. new return line kit has 4 90 degree corners my old return line had 3 90 degree corners am 1 dead end. What should I do with this fourth 90 degree the way I haven't setup is it is on the driver side front injector. Or how should I run this to make it correct. Thanks in advance.

everything you need to know.

http://conestogadiesel.com/support/fuellineroutingoptionsforfordidiengines.html

Look at the back of that hard line near the number 8 injector. That brass fitting is a manifold where several return lines enter it. Off the back of that fitting is the return to the tanks. that line is 5/16 and normally will not need repairs or replacing ever. Now for that fitting. It has a special rubber seal inside of it that hidden from view. Its called an olive. It too is 5/16. Might be 3/8 but its been so long since I replaced mine. They shrink up and leak. Any fuel injection pump repair shop can sell the olive or you can buy the full set. Both ends of the fuel filter to the injection pump have a 5/16 olive in it. then the lift pump to the fuel filter line has only one in the top fitting and its a 3/8 olive. They are shrink and leak so replacing them is a good thing. When they shrink they harden up so its a tuff job removing them from the nuts fitting. A dental pick helps but so does soaking in brake fluid over nite.
Changing the return line caps and hoses can be a ruff job if you change from the 3/16 to the 1/4 inch lines. Best way to know what size you have is the 3/16 lines have a green clamp and the 1/4 inch lines have a red clamp.

I previously had a Delphi kit which was 3/16, and I decided to try the BWD kit since I had heard good things about it... it was just a whim. And I now wish I would have gone back to Delphi, so much less hassle, but hey im learning. I now have the 1/4'' or the later style return line kit. I had it cut up before I realized that it was different. I guess im stuck with it. But if it is better for me to simply go buy another kit so it can be right then that's what I will do. I am **** and like doing things the right way. As most of us I also don't have cash to blow.

I will look into that olive, man I wish I would have just gone and bought the kit from mel to begin with. grr. anyways how do you get that brass fitting off? Do I just put a pair of channel locks on the hardline and turn the brass fitting off. or?

Love the info thanks so much it was a great read. I have a few questions though, I had heard you could plug off the return line to the fuel filter housing and help prevent leaks, is this true. If I did that I was planning on just running a return line from #1 to #4 and calling it good. the Ip is still hooked into the system via the steel return line.
Or is all of that wrong and I need to run the line from #1 to the filter and then find a way to block off #4. I was thinking run a 1-2'' line and then put a plug with a hose clamp on the end of the return line.
What are your thoughts.

The more and more I think about it I am getting rather annoyed with this return line from oreillys. I decided I wanted Viton o rings and ended up paying $10 in shipping on a $6.61 set of em. and the dumb things don't even fit right. Man it will really come back to haunt you to buy cheap. Do you guys think I should just bite the bullet and buy mels kit?

Yes. Buy the kit Mel sells. You can continue trying to make this kit work but in the long run its not going to be a happy ending.
As for removing the bleeder fitting from the filter head yes, that can be done but it has a consequence. Any trapped air in the filter will need to travel thru the injection pump. When I purchased my truck back in 94 I did not have this return from the filter and did not realize how nice it is to have one. Oregon fuel injection in Portland has both the small 3/16 & the big 1/4 inch line bleeders. They are listed on the fuel filter page so you need to look for them. I have nobody in my area that can find one either size. You can make up any kind of a return line path just as long as it all ends up back at the fitting by number 8. Even installing a plastic TEE in between injectors. That trick came from Mel himself. Find the plastic TEES in the help section of most auto parts stores.

the problem i had with the 1/4" kit is that my brass fittings on the back of the engine and the one on the filter head were 3/16.
i swapped them to 1/4" and i havnt had a problem. (mild machining, drilling, and tapping to 1/8" NPT)
starts up great every morning.
you can try hose clamps, they are a pita, but the lill red compression clamps dont do jack for 3/16-1/4".

remember, the fuel also cools the injectors and IP.

definetly I have decided I am simply going to try to get oriellys to return them since they don't fit in the first place and see where that goes but I will be buying one from mel thanks guys

There is an issue when we try top change from one size to another or interchange parts. As posted the 1/4 inch will not work on the 3/16 lines or fittings. No amount of clamping is going to seal the lines. Just remember both the filter bleeder fittings are available thru Oregon Fuel Injection in Portland. The 1/4 inch size is around 18 or 28 bucks and the smaller size is around 9 bucks.

Our advanced return line kits include extra plastic T's and clamps for more routing options. We have them in our ebay store for those of you who hate personal contact. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-IH-6-9...eturn-line-kit-7mm-1-4-w-Extras-/281602555632

Brian... Find a late model idi that does not have that metal return line running down the drivers side of the intake manifold. Then remove the return line brass fitting way back at number 8 cylinder. The one that bolted to the intake manifold with the bolts that holds the intake port to the head. A 9/16 wrench and something to cut loose the return lines from the junk yard engine and your golden. Then give Oregon Fuel Injection a call or look at their filter parts page. Both the 3/16 and the 1/4 inch bleeder fitting for the filter are offered. Also Uhaul has one offered on their ebay site. I have sent them 2 messages asking what size the fitting is but no answers so far. They do have the international part number written into the information. I just do not want to contact International parts counter and ask what this fitting is for size.

Thanks Agnem, I was curious it was hit on some here, but what are those extra t's for? I thank you all for this great response, and info. Also is there instructions on how to put in those olives in your instructions? I will just need some instruction's the first time I do it as I have never done olives before and just don't know.

Olives can be easy or hard to replace. They get hard and its difficult to remove them from inside the brass nuts on the hard line. Soaking in brake fluid over nite helps so does using a dental pick. To install the new ones just slip them over the line flairs and move them back about 1/2 inch. Then install the line flair deep into the female fitting and push the olive up till the nut starts threading on. tighten the nut but not all the way up till it stops turning. Thats not needed. Just snug it up. If you have a leak later on tighten it more. they are adjustable that way.
The extra Tees are so you can choose where to install the return from the injection pump or the filter head. On my engine I returned the filter bleeder to the line between number 1 & 3 injector. I have the smaller return line kit on my 7.3 and will be changing to the larger return line later.

how would you go to the larger return line kit?

Oh boy. Yeah those olives can be a PITA to replace. I soaked mine in brake fluid overnight and still a no go. Finally busted out the propane torch and burnt them off. I think that is the easiest way to remove them if they are being stubborn. It sure is nice having a leak free fuel system. Engine will start up easier and keeps things clean under the engine compartment. Less risk of a fire hazard too.
Good to see that Mel is offering some of his products on ebay .