1998 E4OD on the outside... ...wait a minute!

Almost done.

Nice work.

******************BW 1356 Rebuild (cont.)*******************

Thanks guys, the gearboxes will be done soon, meanwhile I've been working on electrical (I designed/built a
"load center" which runs off the Batt and part of which is controlled by a relay.) I wasn't sure if I should start
putting that stuff on here or on my ClubWagon thread.

I also want to cover how I get the Baumann controller connected and input all the parameters. Also the cooling
circuit and shifters. Kinda want to put it on this thread, and do the Engine/Turbo and 4x4 Conversion on the
ClubWagon thread...???


***********************
With the Fluid Pump in place the pick up line and filter can go in,

Rebuild Kits, did NOT come with that clamp, so hope you didn't lose it...

The filter end is just an interference fit onto a barbed plastic nipple,


The magnet was completely filthy, wondered where all the STEEL shavings came from, since Mag and Alum are
immune... (This case was supposedly "fresh" and never got used... "Yeah, uh-huh... ...sure...")


Careful that the magnet gets placed and stays PUT in it's little happy place, it does not stay stuck there like with
your normal steel oil pans...


The chains on the 1356 tend to be robust and do not stretch a whole lot, I was told chain failures are pretty rare
too. IN any case, INSPECT YOUR CHAIN.


I found quite a bit of aluminum in my chain,

Actually, QUITE A BIT of alum crud. I think the previous "builder" didn't check the chain, and just threw it back in.
The claim was the TC spun the Retainer and took out a bunch of stuff with it, which is why he "rebuilt it." Most all
the hard parts looked fresh/new, but not the chain nor the magnet. (Could have happened, I guess.)

With the chain and sprockets ready, prep the case to accept them as ONE UNIT,


And drop them onto the shafts,


Get your Spacer and C-Clip onto the Front Drive Stub Shaft,


Inspect and Prep the Shift Fork,


My particular fork had the plastic pads embedded in the aluminum fork. The plastic pads provided in the rebuilt kits
will not work.

(to be Continued...)

******************BW 1356 Rebuild (cont.)*******************

The pads themselves by luck were in good shape, in fact they have a convex surface unlike the
pads provided in the kit. A much harder plastic is in the existing fork as well,


Take the Shift Fork and engage the 4-Wheel Lock to create a single assembly. Drop the assembly
onto the Output Shaft and the Support Shaft,

A little bit of wiggling will get said assembly in place...

Check for proper engagement at the Detent. If not, DO NOT PASS GO, something is put together wrong,
undo and make it right.


Keep a hand on the parts and shift through all the modes, be sure you have "positive function" now or
much sadness will occur later...

The Support Spring engages with a nub on the inside of the rear case half and onto the Support Shaft of the
front case half,


Circlip gets carfully dropped over the Output Shaft down to lock the 4WD Lock in place,


Put a 1/8" bead of Transmission Case RTV on the clean mating surface of one case half,


I put all the bolts in and torqued to only 8 ft-lbs and let it set overnight,

Be sure you only put RTV where you need it, too much can turn into a REAL problem! Excess sealant can drop
inside the case and clog things up!

(You can use a pencil to mark out the true contact areas if that helps any)

Slide the other case half onto the shafts/spring and caringly set it onto the RTV'd case half. Peek in to verify
the Support Spring is engaged properly.

Thread a few of the Case Bolts (T50/Torx) to just hand tight, then hack a visual all around and torque the bolts
to about 8 ft-lb (70 in-lb.)

I found a 1/8" wide bead was almost too much, just a fraction less would be "factory" but I also had to overcome
some dried chunks in the nozzle...


While the RTV was allowed to cure (after which, I can FULLY torque all the case bolts,) I put the Snap Ring on to
the Output Shaft,


That's it for now, on to the tailshaft and final touches on the Transfer Case next time...

Best regards,
George

I would keep this thread for the tranny and transfer case stuff. I would include the transmission electronics here.

Everything else can go with your "Club Wagon" thread.

X2. Curious about your load center. I'm thinking about how to do one myself.

Thanks TrackSpeeder,

I'm thinking just that, anything to do with the 'Life Support' of the E4OD should be in that section. I've acquired quite a bit of stuff
unrelated to the E4OD which will go with the Club Wagon thread...

Hi laserjock,

Not sure why, but it took me a lot of headscratchin' then finally "the light bulb turned on" (no pun intended, ha) and I got the basic
set up done. I have two new fuse panels, mounted on a single bracket. Both panels are supplied with 12v from BATT (fused)
but one panel switches hot with the use of a relay. The relay is tapped into the original fuse panel to an IGN key switched circuit.

The whole thing is super-simple, but it took a ways to get it to that point, mostly just thinkin' about it.

I have a bunch of photos now, and need to update my Club Wagon post because I'll forget what happened first if I let is set too long.

******************BW 1356 Rebuild (cont.)*******************

Tailshaft Housing Bushing Remove and Replace

Being the cheap ****** that I am, I wanted to try and use what tools I had in my meager workshop- I'm a hobbyist who doesn't
have a 20-ton press and 100's of push tools, so here is what I did...

Removing the Old Bushing:


Sharpened screwdriver. Just my luck I have one. Just my luck there is a fluid control groove in the Bushing Bore. Just my luck the
Bushing material is soft babbit. So let's see how lucky I got...


Darn bushing fell out before I could get my screwdriver all the way through to the other side! Just my luck...

Now the hard part. I imagine this bushing gets pushed into place using a press. I don't have a press, I have a 3 lb. sledge hammer.
The hard part was finding a "push tool." I finally found the perfect tool in a Ball Joint Press Kit:


I used that, plus the hammer, plus a brass drift pin- super simple. The drift pin rides INSIDE the push tool, and the push tool rests
perfectly flat on the bushing. So, if the bushing is crooked, the push tool REALLY SHOWS IT, and it is obvious where you need to
tap to correct the tilt.

Brass Drift, Push Tool (Ball Joint Kit,) Bushing *Note, the Push Tool has a "bottom" to it, that is what the Drift is hitting

NOTE:

The Push Tool (Ball Joint Kit) has a bottom to it, so it was easy to hammer off to one side, then the other and so on to correct
for any tilting. Eventually, the Bushing starts getting pretty lined up by the Bore and continued tapping gets the job done.


This worked way better than I could have hoped for, there is control, you can hit all around in there. Also, unlike hitting directly
with a drift pin, the Push Tool FULLY CONTACTS the Bushing, so the Edge of the bushing won't get boogered up. (I tested the
bushing distortion by trying the Yoke several times, IF it got tight or weird I would have STOPPED and got it right or started
over if need be.)

NOTE, the bore for the bushing is CONSTANT diameter, BUT the hole leading up to the Bushing is TAPERED, so be sure
your Push Tool, whatever it is, does not bind up prematurely.

I should also NOTE, the Bushing enters from the INSIDE. Likewise, the old one exited TO THE INSIDE as well.


New Bushing in place. Fluid Slot in Bushing lines up with Fluid Groove in the Housing.

Output Flange (Slip Yoke Eliminator) in place:


Now the Housing is ready for paint and seals.

Until next time.

Best regards,
George

******************BW 1356 Rebuild (cont.)*******************

Tailshaft Housing Bushing Remove and Replace (cont.)

I was fiddling with the 1356, turning the aft output shaft, when all of a sudden...



(Thunk) I PULLED THE GUTS OUT! THE OUTPUT SHAFT CAME OUT A GOOD INCH PLUS

My gut reaction was "I FORGOT a snap ring" which sent me on a search of all my photos (one of the main
reasons I take so many with my phone,) but could not see anything that was missed. This thing is GLUED
SHUT, so I was pretty blown away. "Did something break?"

I was beside myself, head sore from scratching it so much, THEN I realized the Tailshaft Housing IS the
Bearing Retainer... ...NO SNAP RING NECESSARY

See that lip? That lip keeps the bearing and all the guts in place (to a tight tolerance I might add, end play
was very little.)

**************Well, that was two hours wasted**************

Anyways, I stuffed the Output back in place, it spins right, so I think I learned something here.... I'm pretty
ignorant sometimes...

TS Housing is painted up pretty and ready to go on,


I just have to calculate the speedo drive gear ratio and pick the better of the 4 combos I can do, then I
can button the 1356 up and move ahead.

Back soon.

Best regards,
George

I bet you were ready to separate the case again.

thats how it goes when you do stuff you don't normally do.........you know i know this fact very well.

Ha Ha TrackSpeeder,
I was ready, but ohhh man, I wasn't willing That's why I kept double checking myself!

Hi FORD250HDXLT,
Brother, you've walked the walk, so it ain't just talk- mad respect for your "stick-to-it" abilities. So true,
I'm in "uncharted waters" a lot of the time on this build...

******************BW 1356 Rebuild (cont.)*******************

Tailshaft Housing Bushing Remove and Replace (cont.)

It was time to put my Speedo Drive gear on and get this thing buttoned up.

First thing was selecting the ratio so the Speedometer reads right. Since this combo of E4OD and '85 Club Wagon
was never factory, and larger tires were being used, it meant that I had to calculate the most accurate ratio possible.

(NOTE: if you don't like MATH then skip this part, come back later)


The yellow gear is the most common (7 tooth,) and will NOT read correctly for larger tires! (for the axle ratio I want,
1700-1800 at highway speeds, idi diesel.)
(SO, before all this you must calculate the desired rpm at cruise, for me
that is freeway speeds in SoCal and Mexico. Lower speed/engine interaction
can be adjusted a bit with the transmission controller.) Once I had a feel for
my cruise speed/rpm, I got my tire size and axle ratios.

(I can put up the cruise speed and rpm calcs if anyone is interested... )

Step One, Gather Info:

Axle ratios, F/R (4x4)
3.55:1

Tire Diameter
35x12.50x16.5=33.75" (actual measured, TO THE PAVEMENT, subtract for tire flat/bulge!)

Speedometer DRIVE Gear
8 tooth (brown) (Several to choose from, I chose this one after some fiddling...)

Step Two, going to one of the many speedometer gear calculators

http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/SpeedoGearCalc.html

You get these screen shots (sorry for the Moire fringe pattern, very cheesy...)

*inputted values shown above,

**this assumes our speedometers are set for 1000rpm/60mph, which I think is correct.

Hit "calculate"


16.9 tells us the 17 tooth Driven Gear (white, but NOT always) is the one we want.

Step Three, put it together

I did not show this before so for reference I will show assembly steps a little better,

little ball bearing (in slot of gear) comes with the Transfer Case Hard Parts kit (if needed.)
NOTE: The notch in the Brown Gear, the ball bearing goes in that slot. Notice the slot
DOES NOT go all the way through the Gear, this is important.

The Gear goes PAST the hole for the BB, then the BB is placed in the hole and the
Gear "backs up" over the Ball Bearing...



To keep the Brown Drive Gear over the BB, a spacer/clip is put on the Output Shaft behind the Drive Gear,


And let's not forget the Rubber Toothed Doughnut Piece, (not sure what it does, starting to think it's sacrificial, like
the one for the dipstick tube for factory assembly.)


White Driven Gear clipped in place and mocked up before I glue it all together, just in case. You can see the gear protruding...

Note also the 1/8-" wide bead of Transmission RTV, being sure to encompass all through routes.

With the Tailshaft Housing in place, I torqued the 4 Torx T-50 bolts to only 9 ft-lbs, and let it dry. Final torque will come after
full cure...

A lot to see here, the Speedo Cable/VSS adapter (with 17 tooth white gear) in place, Rear Seal pounded in (shortest seal
was selected, to clear the SYE/Flange,) and notice also the amount of RTV squeeze-out, just to verify. I plan to hit that stick weld
with my air-scaler once I fix my compressor.

That is it for now, couple more small details and the BW 1356 is complete, then I can get back to the last touches on the E4OD.

Best regards,
George

So my first reply to this thread was to run it and enjoy. You clearly have demonstrated that you are obsessive-compulsive about details and build quality. I ABSOLUTELY support and respect that. I just read the whole thread and am very impressed with the attention to detail and quality of your work. I'm a perfectionist myself, when I can be, and always have deep respect for those who go way beyond the norm on their projects.

Excellent work, can't wait to see it in action!

Is this going to be an expedition setup? Moto van? Baja support vehicle? You mentioned highways in Mexico...

Ryan

Hi Ryan,

Thanks for the props man, I learned from my Father who was a racer, amongst other things, and
he taught me "if you see it (a flaw/issue) then go after it" don't think "Oh, I'll get that later..." because
that's a trap, that's being weak.

Now, I own a surf and paddle board company where the quality is all about the attention to detail, so I
feel very fortunate to be given the chance to exercise those skills I learned decades ago.

The Club Wagon has been a looong time in the making. It took YEARS to find the right one. Still cannot
believe how good of an example I came across. The main concept is a multi-board carrier, and taking it out
to moderate-to-rugged areas to "test" equipment, ha. This van will also do well on long runs along our
coast and down into Baja and do basic camping, it will not be equipped like my friends' 9,000 lb pre-fabbed
Sportsmobiles. Mine will run as a shell. I can also deliver boards to retail shops in quantity if our stinking
economy every turns around after another election or two...

...add to that a cash infusion from selling my FJ55, and I had a budget to work from. I got plans but still
can't believe I even got this far... ...somebody pinch me! ha ha.

******************BW 1356 Rebuild (cont.)*******************

Finishing up

The tailshaft housing was final torqued to 35 ft-lbs. I almost forgot the cover for the PTO! In fact, I couldn't
find the cover plate!!!

Found it.


Used that krylon rust tough product, it's okay...

Cleaned it up, got some paint on it and also the bolts (btw, I HATE painting fasteners. In fact, for years I did my
own "cad" plating (actually zinc,) but that stuff looks good for a little while, then after a couple seasons here,
they turn to JUNK! Awful!

Then, I found home powdercoating, I did a small batch of (just bolt heads,) and they've held up great! Problem
is right now, I don't have the electric oven set up properly, and I can't move on that until my slab is ready...

So, DANG IT, I'm back to where I was in High School, painting bolt heads,


This is a pretty good paint if you're having to resort to paint, Duplicolor Flat Alum.

Thin coat, can take a socket 2-3 times.

*I still believe a coating of some kind is beneficial, I find certain ones pressure wash so good, after a trip just hit it
and you're done.

Oh, I also found if I just leave things BARE steel, that Boe-shield works really well. It has a little wax in it. Good for about
a year. Just shoot the entire thing after you install it.


Used that Transmission-specific RTV again.


The Paper Towel Trick- preliminary torque at 10 ft-lbs, final tighten to 35 ft-lbs overnight.


********************E4OD Final Assembly********************

Title is misleading. I had to go several steps backwards to find little problems, that kept happening, which I knew would
be BIG PROBLEMS later...

Main issue. Input Shaft would bind, almost at random, I could NOT figure it out. For a while it was gone, then I worked
on the BW1356, and then came back to the E4OD, and the INPUT WOULD BE BINDING!!!

On top of this, I STRIPPED THREE FRONT PUMP CASE HOLES!!!

I didn't put the whole picture together until today. Up to then, I thought the case may be defective (soft) or I was wrenching
too hard (not likely.)

See if you can follow this, and see if it makes sense, but I think I solved the problem(s)

First step was to get Heli-Coils in,

Several things going on here. Tape- you'd be surprised at the quantity of debris created. Drill size, is crucial, usually sold with
Heli-coils as a matched set.

(I was talking to friends about Heli-coils, and they're like "Oh, yeah, Heli-coil, for sure." And after a while I come to find they
have NO FRICKEN IDEA what a Heli-coil is, I mean, they sorta know, but can't tell me. We're NOT BORN with the knowledge, and
it's useful so I will cover it a little better here,

Basically, you are CHOPPING OUT the old threads (what's left of them, mine came out wrapped on the actual BOLT!) then
putting NEW, STRONGER threads back in. Stronger, because they are larger than original so there is more surface area than
the original. Then, the original bolt can screw into this new threaded hole. Easy.

After drilling out the old threads, a Tap is used to screw into the new bigger hole,

Long nose grip was used to handle the Tap bit, close quarters against the case dictated it. The case is pretty soft, and
cutting the new threads was almost too easy...

New, precision threads, going in,

Red Handle tool has a slot in the end to twist grip the "helical thread coil" so you can screw it in place.


You want the "Heli-Coil" about 1/2 turn beyond flush with the outside of the threaded hole. It just screws in, feels like a
big bolt going in, ha...

(To be continued...)

********************E4OD Final Assembly (cont.)********************

Once the coil is set, pull out the tool, then insert another tool that will break off that
little cross piece you could see on the end of the Heli-coil.


The coil metal is very hard, so a mild hit with a hammer will break the cross piece off, leaving
the hole all-clear to accept a fastener.


I back-taped a baby screwdriver and fetched the broke off piece so a new bolt won't get hung up.

Pull the dressing away and you're ready to play,


*******Binding Input Shaft, SOLVED?*******

I had to order more sealing washers (btw, the ones in the kits were JUNK, I got some from my guy Mike
that were excellent, held together after several cycles.) On the phone to Mike and I tell him I am STILL
HAVING BINDING ISSUES, and he talks me through it on the phone (Great Guy, I owe him big time.)

He had me remove all the frictions/steels, and other non-stack related items, meaning if there was contact
made which contributed to the stack up height, the part was used. Example, Front Pump O-Ring gasket:
makes it harder to drop the pump in for a test, so take it off.

Torrington Bearings, shims, planetary, sprag race, O.D. sun gear, center shaft were all retained.

To keep a long story short, we found the stack up problem was from the Center Support, outward.
(good thing, it meant that I didn't have to disassemble anything deeper than the Center Supp, or any
of the underside like the valve body, accumulator, etc.)

I'm passing all his little tests, Sun Gear has free play, Coast Clutch has a little play, nothing looks bad.

30 minutes on the phone, he has a customer, and still, nothing sticks out. In closing, he says to take apart
the Overdrive Planetary from the Center Shaft/Ring Gear.

Taking it apart,

The silver flat ring is actually a bearing, (Torrington,) that was NOT in the assembly. The scary thing is, this
assembly is put together so that the Torringtion was encased INSIDE it. The TB rides between the snout
of the O.D. Planetary Case and the O.D. Center Shaft. (The Planetary Snout is shoved up into the backside
of the Center Shaft, sounds weird.)



Shocked, I see NO Torrington Bearing in there. Nothing.

Torrington Bearing in place now, it's on the snout of the Overdrive Planetary. NOTE in the upper right of the photo,
that is the Overdrive Center Shaft. It has gear teeth. Those teeth fit into the Ring Gear that the Planetary is sitting
in, on this photo.



So when they are snap-ringed together, you cannot see it, if fact if you look at the upper right again you will see
ANOTHER Torrington, which rides on the OUTSIDE of the Center Shaft, and it is less than 1/2 inch above the missing
TBearing.

Center Shaft now in place. "Missing" Torrington bearing is INSIDE, just under that silver disc/shaft. On top of the silver
disc, you can see the OTHER Torrington bearing OUTSIDE. It was never missing.

(These two Torrington Thrust Bearings support end loads, thus affect Stack Height and Clearance.)
On the OPPOSITE side of the assembly, a Sun Gear is inserted... ...the Sun Gear also supports end loads.

***********************

The other issue was the Overdrive Sprag...

Somehow, I installed the Inner Race upside-down


That inner step without any splines must face outward!!!

*I can blame this on being in too much of a hurry, take it apart, throw it together, take it apart again, etc. All I had to
do was PAY ATTENTION.


***********************
Anyways, I put it all back together, SLOWLY and carefully. And for the first time, I got the most clearance I've had at this
point:

Looked to be a good 1/4 INCH! (Most I had before was half that)

The Front Pump thumped down in place and hit bottom DISTINCT, like I was expecting all along, FINALLY


Torqued in without any "draggy" bolts this time, real crisp. AND, the Input Shaft FALLS IN PLACE, and I can slightly
turn it CCW (another first.)

So,
1. The Coast Clutch was sitting high.
2. Not sure why it was sitting high, but could be the missing bearing or inverted inner sprag race.
3. The raised Coast Clutch made the Front Pump "teeter totter" on it (0.005"-0.015") just enough.
4. The sometimes tilted Front Pump caused the Input Shaft to bind.
5. Tilted Front Pump put spike loads on Pump Bolts resulting in strip-outs in the Case.

Time to move on now.

Until next time.

Best regards,
George

Not that it matters all that much, but actually the tire height is not what you really care about for determining speedo gear. What you care about is circumference or "roll-out". It is related to the diamter by pi. The flat spot doesn't really matter as that will not effect the circumference of the tire. Realistically, will it make a difference probably a percent or 2. The factory speedo won't be that close anyway most likely.

The sprag incorrectly installed can cause your issue. It only takes one part installed incorrectly to throw off the assembly. On another note it is a good thing that it caused binding. Otherwise you would have installed the unit with a defect. It wouldn't last very long before it self destructed killing your hard work.

Always check over your work. It is the little things that can bite you.

Looking good.