Stalling on startup...

k_williams1982 · Nov 6, 2008

I'm having a problem with my truck stalling after starting it up. It only happens every once in awhile though, and always during a startup. As long as I throttle it a bit when it starts, it won't stall out. :dunno

If I just try to start it, it'll run for a few seconds, rev up, and die. I have to crank it 15 seconds at a time for 2-4 times while I hold the throttle down to get it to start again. I checked all the return lines at the injectors, and the injector lines for leaks that could be letting the fuel "bleed off", but found no leaks. I've been running a 50/50 WMO at operating temperature (I start on shut down the truck on diesel). What could be causing it to do this? The only thing I can think of is if the fuel filter is partially clogged up and restricting the flow. Thanks for any help in advance.

LCAM-01XA · Nov 6, 2008

You have an air intrusion, check the main return line coming off the T-ee at the back of the engine and running down along the frame to the tank selector valve - that's what plagued me for a week. Also, as a good precaution I have removed the return line between the #1 injector and the fuel filter - actually both my fuel filters have no return lines to them, this way if I ever get another return line leak they will not drain back into the tanks.

Oh, and a bit offtopic:

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Diesel JD · Nov 6, 2008

Its going to be air intrusion/leakdown, a plugged fuel filter or bad fuel. Most likely air is the culprit since you start/stop on diesel.

Andylad13 · Nov 6, 2008

have you replaced your return lines yet??? are they the braided nylon ones or rubber ones? i had a big time air leak and everything was dry until i hardly touched it, and it broke apart, that was with the original braided ones.

Andylad13 · Nov 6, 2008

M.L.S.C. said:
Also, as a good precaution I have removed the return line between the #1 injector and the fuel filter - actually both my fuel filters have no return lines to them, this way if I ever get another return line leak they will not drain back into the tanks.

I should do that too, but i thought that it needed that return line because of the amount of fuel going into the filter was greater than the amount going into the engine??

LCAM-01XA · Nov 6, 2008

Andylad13 said:
I should do that too, but i thought that it needed that return line because of the amount of fuel going into the filter was greater than the amount going into the engine??

It is, but that's why the IP has a return line as well - I just run all the overflow through the IP, both the #1 and #2 injector cap hoses t-ee to the IP return port so overflow splits and flows on both sides of the engine and then merges back at the big t-ee with the 5/16 line leading back to the tank selector valve.

k_williams1982 · Nov 6, 2008

Andylad13 said:
have you replaced your return lines yet??? are they the braided nylon ones or rubber ones? i had a big time air leak and everything was dry until i hardly touched it, and it broke apart, that was with the original braided ones.

I haven't replaced the lines. It still has the original braid ones and I was wondering if rubber lines would work. Will rubber hoses work? If so, I'll change them out today. ;Sweet

k_williams1982 · Nov 6, 2008

M.L.S.C. said:
You have an air intrusion, check the main return line coming off the T-ee at the back of the engine and running down along the frame to the tank selector valve - that's what plagued me for a week. Also, as a good precaution I have removed the return line between the #1 injector and the fuel filter - actually both my fuel filters have no return lines to them, this way if I ever get another return line leak they will not drain back into the tanks.

After I remove the line from the fuel filter to injector #1, what is the best way to plug them so that they don't leak?

JPease0919 · Nov 6, 2008

It may more likely be the 'O' rings above and below the injector return line 'T', and not the 'return lines' themselves, but probably best to change them all at once. There's a kit available for $30 that has everything you need in it (ebay).

LCAM-01XA · Nov 6, 2008

When you pull the hose remove the fitting as well, then replace it with an 1/8" NPT hollow-core brass plug, can befound at Lowes and Home Depot for less than $2. If you get one with a square head that takes 7mm wrench. That's how I have one of my filter heads plugged, the other one is just capped cause I wanna put a gauge on it. The injector cap you can replace with another one like #2, that will be a pretty clean setup.

k_williams1982 · Nov 7, 2008

M.L.S.C. said:
When you pull the hose remove the fitting as well, then replace it with an 1/8" NPT hollow-core brass plug, can befound at Lowes and Home Depot for less than $2. If you get one with a square head that takes 7mm wrench. That's how I have one of my filter heads plugged, the other one is just capped cause I wanna put a gauge on it. The injector cap you can replace with another one like #2, that will be a pretty clean setup.

I'm going to give it a shot. NAPA can get me that return line kit for a decent price and have it for me next day.

Stalling on startup...

k_williams1982

'01 Excursion 4x4

LCAM-01XA

Full Access Member

Diesel JD

Full Access Member

Andylad13

DieselBoy

Andylad13

DieselBoy

LCAM-01XA

Full Access Member

k_williams1982

'01 Excursion 4x4

k_williams1982

'01 Excursion 4x4

JPease0919

Registered User

LCAM-01XA

Full Access Member

k_williams1982

'01 Excursion 4x4

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