Fuel screw wont budge?

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Hey guys...

Well I just got around to installing my banks cdr adapter and figured while I had the timing cover off, I could put the pin at 12:00 and bump the fuel up.

Lined everything up... new 5/32 allen wrench and a 5/32 wrench on that... couldn't get the screw to budge. Felt like something was going to break so I quit.

Just how tight are these screws as far as adjusting them? It shouldn't be maxed out as I only see 1kF at full tilt.

I couldn't get it to move either direction. Any tips?
 

Runningaford

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I was surprised at the amount of force I needed for adjusting it; if I recall, the allen wrench was bending fairly good, and I thought it was gonna snap, then it moved.
 

Runningaford

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If I recall correctly, the cover on my pump still had the factory seal, it was a glob of plastic, or wax, or ? It hadn't been broken, so I was fairly sure it was the factory setting, and hadn't been tampered with previously to me opening. I'd guess if your pump was already maxed out, you'd see quite a bit of smoke out the tail pipe; that, or potentially have high EGT's.
 

icanfixall

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Best suggestion I can give is buy a snapon 5/32 allen wrench.Then get a 1/4 inch drive socket to fit this allen. Drive the socket down on the LONG end of the allen wrench. Of course it will be too long to fit inside the injection pump so cut it down carefully. I made mine about 1/8 to 3/16 inch longer than the depth of the fuel screw. Now use a 1/4 drive breaker bar and I guarantee you this will have the unbending torque to turn the screw either direction. I suggest backing off the screw before trying you increase the fuel by turning it in. Once this screw bottoms out running this pump can ruin it because the plunger not bottoms out and that's all this pump wrote.
 

OLDBULL8

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The reason the fuel adjusting screw is so hard to turn, is that the screw head is pushing against the C ring that adjust the rollers out. Of course if the screw head breaks off, this is what will happen the first time the engine is run, it jams the rotor and shears the input shaft. If that happens, an easy fix, just a new IP install. :eek: :mad: :love:

Edit: I sent these pieces to Mel a few years back so he could show it at the rallies, don't know if he ever did tho.
 

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austin92

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Like I canfixall said, I put the long end of the Allen wrench in the adjustment screw then put a 5/32 socket on an extension and used it as a breaker bar


1983 f350 6.9 zf5 2wd srw single cab long bed. Facet duralift, optima red tops, bfg all terrains, 4" exhaust from y pipe back, autometer z series pyro, pump turned up 2 flats
 

68f2506.9

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On my pump I used the allen and grabbed the end with pliers to get it to turn. It felt like it was about to snap, then it moved. I just did this to mine a week ago.
 

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