Please help before I destroy

I recently swapped a 92 7.3 idi into my 86 f350. Long story short after a very frustrating experience with the wiring I decided just to use the glow plug system off of the 6.9 that I had and ended up using the 6.9 harness. Everything now works.....except im getting NO fuel out of the IP. All solenoids are working, the top part of the pump is full but no output at the injectors. There was some rusty water/fuel that was sitting in the tops of the injectors. Not really sure what to do. Use the pump off of the 6.9? Light the truck on fire, donate it to the salvage yard???? Not sure what to do. I already have 3k in this thing and Im at the point where I have no clue how much more money it will take to get it running or if I should just cut my losses and move on. Any suggestions?

So this rusty water and fuel you found sitting on top of the injectors. Please tell us you removed the injector hard lines and "found this" there. If so that tells me you complete fuel system is rusted up. Have you removed the top of the injection pump cover and looked in.. If so what did that fuel look like. Was this engine sitting for a long time? Sad to say this but I feel your injection pump. Hard lines and injectors are ruined. There is no reason why you can't remove the lines, pump and injectors from the other engine and install on the ruined engine you are posting about. Just know how to remove and install these parts before you attempt it. Doing it wrong can cause a headache you wont enjoy. Nearly EVERY part of the 6.9 fuel system will fit the 7.3 fuel system. Not sure what fuel filter you have on the 6.9 but I would try to keep the 7.3 fuel filter. Just make sure the hard line from the filter to the injection pump is clean. You also MUST install a clean new filter on the dirty 7.3 system no matter what you end up doing. Now please realize once water turns to rust in the fuel system things are just a core charge and will NEVER run no matter what you do to clean them up. The tollerances in the injection pump and injectors is much less than a thousands of an inch. Any water or rust ruins then very fast.

OK thanks. Fuel in top of IP is clean. The other motor ran when I pulled it, just had a blown head gasket. In retrospect I should have just fixed it. I will replace entire fuel system from 6.9. Will pump from 6.9 need re timed? Also after I remove the nuts on the back does the pump come free after remove the funky reverse torques under the cover of the oil fill? Hopefully the injectors are the same because the ones on the 7.3 are filled with rust.

Why don't you just try swap inning the injectors first and see if that works. Then go from there.
If the pump isn't rusted shut then it's just the injectors from what your telling us.

No its more than just the injectors. I have the hard lines pulled off the injectors. Also pulled a hard line off the pump. Still nothing. Clean fuel into IP. Top of IP is full of clean fuel. Injectors had rust in top of them. Its good to know the injectors interchange. Thanks.

Well change out the injectors and the injection pump then go from there.
Also the guy that posted first (icanfixall) he knows his poopoo so listen to him more than me please.

Those funky bolts are 12 point. Very common.

Changing the injectors from the 6.9 to the 7.3 engine will work great. Just please replace the copper gaskets found on the bottom of the injector. ?Reusing the old ones will fail and then you overheat the injectyors from escaping hot combustion gas and you end up cutting the seat in the head.. All not good things. The injector torque is 35 ft lbs. From what you are posting. Just remove the 6.9 injection pump with the hard lines still connected on the back of it. then remove the injectors. No need to remember what cylinders they fit because they are going to be "new" to the 7.3 engine. The only line you need to remove from the back of the injection pump is the feed line from the filter. Those 3 bolts under the oil fill cover have a 25 ft lbs torque and are the 12 point hex bolts just like the universal bolts are. Actually they are the same exact bolt and you can purchase them from Napa in the universal repair kits they sell. Remove the 3 hard to reach 9/16 nuts that holds the pump to the gear housing... NEVER EVER remove the gear housing with the pump connected. the gear comes off with it and you never can see the timing marks to align it. the cam gear is too deep in the block to see the marks. Once the nuts and bolts are out push the pump towards the intake manifold. then move it towards the drivers side. then lift the back end of it up and out between the stud on the top and the passenger side. It will lift right up and out. Practice this of the engine out of the truck to learn how easy it really is. Also please ask questions. Someone is always here to help.
Now about the timing question.. You must time the pump to the different engine. No way can you align marks or guess its going to be correct. Those marks do not mean anything after the pump was changed from the factory. They installed a new pump. Not a rebuilt pump. timed it and made marks. ALL injection pumps now come timed internally differently. No 2 are alike. So you must retime the engine when you change a pump. But once that pump is timed you make a mark telling yourself "this is this timing". then you can remove and install it and KNOW what the timing is. A rebuilt pump lasts for about 125,000 to 150,000 miles. so you have about 8 or 10 years before needing another pump .......

You guys have just renewed my confidence that I can get this thing to run....Thanks
I know someone that can time the pump for me. Or at least let me use the equipment to do it myself. Thank you all

ERnurse said:

You guys have just renewed my confidence that I can get this thing to run....Thanks
I know someone that can time the pump for me. Or at least let me use the equipment to do it myself. Thank you all

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That's easy....let's make it run first before worrying about that.icanfixall will rent you the timing tool

If by chance you remove the lines from the IP, be sure and mark them to which injector they go to. Here is how they go back on the IP. 2-7-3-1-4-8-6-5. Be sure and replace the clamps if you removed the lines. You can see pretty much how the lines are inter tangled from the clamp pic.

Those funky bolts are 5/16" 12 point.

OK IP is off old motor. Injectors pulled from old motor. I wire brushed the threads and removed old copper gaskets. Can I soak them in diesel fuel or gas to clean them out or should I take them apart. I got a complete gasket with all o rings and gaskets, return lines etc.

Do not take apart the injectors and please keep dirt out of the fuel inlet end. Taking them apart will not do mush if anything for you. Keeping them clean is so important if they come apart. The pintle to nozzle fit is so close that its reported that a fingerprint will cause issues. If you suspect any dirt MIGHT have gotten into the fuel inlet end of the injector just hold them upside down and spray some brakclean up into them to wash out any dirt. Its the dirt you can't see that ruins injectors.

Jersey Shore is only a couple of hours from me. I can help you get that thing squared away easily.

Thanks...I got it all back together but my batteries are drained bad and not turning the motor fast enough. I got them charging right now and anticipate that I will get it started tomorrow if it would quit raining. I may take you up on your offer if I cant get it going.