94 turbo flywheel with PSD 13" clutch?

This is its own topic outside of my build thread.
Lookign at options for the 94T engine I will be dropping in. I need the Vin K flywheel I know this. Will be going with Luk SMF.
Now i read here and there that one can jsut drill and tap the IDI flywheel to accept a 13" PSD clutch? Cheaper and more options for PSD clutches, same spline count...If I could use that I would be money ahead than purching an HD system for a 94 turbo...
Machine shop at work could drill and tap for me here..

The only "downside" I've seen about running a bigger disc, is since the pressure plate wasn't designed for it, there will be less clamping force.
But I'm sure you could make the other pressure plate work.
What is Justin running these days?

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I was referring to running the entire PSD disc and PP. just drill the FW for the PP if I am not mistaken?

Ah, yeah. Should work.

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Why not just purchased an upgraded clutch and flyheel for the IDI? Doesnt seem like you'd be saving much money. I purchased this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059VAZV4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oof, 700$+.
Vs

Flywheel-100$
13" psd clutch and pp-250

Total-galf of that one

Vs time and machine work to drill and make a powerstroke clutch work and possibly have it off balance. I'd says $200 for machine shop to drill it and hope it's close. Only saving $150 then.

Machining at work is free though.
As far as i understand, the flywheel is prt of the rngines rotating assembly balance.
While the clutch should be neutral balnce and could be oriented any way on the flywheel?

I meant balance by not drilling the holes perfectly centered that'd throw it off. My machine shot asked for clutch and pressure plate to balance my engine still.

clutch and PP are neutral balance. no need for engine balancing. If that was the case then youd need the transmission, driveshafts etc..end up with a formula 1 car.

Don;t get em wrong-id love the SB clutch, btu that is $$$, goal of this is to do it on the dirt cheap, while still being good-and yes it can be done! just takes patience and a little ingenuity, access to the right tools and people.

im looking at 450$ shipped for the IDIT flywheel, and the luk cerametallic clutch.
people say its fine, as long as you dont let the clutch out like a grandma. Just be meaningful with it, it will grab and go.
Ive learned that I can easily start out in 2 low row it up to even 4th, pop the tcase in neutral and have it in 2hi or 3 hi within 2 or 3 seconds letting the shafts slow down. So i dont need to slip the clutch starting with a big weight.
I just dont want slippage.
But....the cheap ******* in me is thinkng...will i get slippage from a cheaper luk repset PSD 13" clutch??
Im not racing the truck, but when its laying down 350hp/700tq in gear..i do NOT want slip.

machining is free.

6 puck sprung hub. Nuff said.

Or SPEC SF043... no additional drilling should be required.

Don't get hung up on a 13" clutch... a cheap 13" may be worse off than a good 11". Heck, most racing applications use a smaller clutch to limit the rotating mass... and they hold up to more power than you're putting down. If you're converting to 13" to get a beefy high-quality one, go for it!

If you're converting it for the convenience of a cheap replacement down the road, you're already essentially accepting the risk that the first one isn't going to hold up.

Sports cars have much less mass to move. So they have more power, the clutch osnt suvject to the same amount of torque.

I'm just saying, if you open the door to a PSD clutch get a good one, or just get a good IDI one and not fuss with it.

But... I guess in theory a stock PSD puts down quite a bit more grunt than any IDI, so maybe I'm just comparing apples to oranges. A good spec sheet (not anecdotal or a sales pitch on a website) would help, but I couldn't find anything on the Luk setups.

^thats exactly wha ti was hoping to find. clamping force and torque ratings.
I know that PSD luk cerametallic one holds cummins 500/1000 setups and majority of the people seem to like it.
the current Luk I have was never very positive. I mean it was ok, but it never felt like it just grabbed and go.

the cerametallic one is 350$,
don't wan tto run any puck type of disc. I knwo from driving aggressive street cars with puck clutches, they are extremely grabby. But tha tis also the material type.

I just cant justify spending the 700+ on a south bend clutch, when the PSD cerametallic clutch will hold 500 horse all day.
Neither is good for sled pulling, but the cerametallic one seems to hold up ok even in racing. I just want it to grab hard and hold firm when i got a big weight behind me or tryign to crawl over stuff in low range.
My Luk started slipping and smoking as I was trying to climb up a steep wall