Clogged Orifice tube

HS108 · May 23, 2016

Found out why my AC wasn't working... I think the Accumulator went bad, and one of the desiccant bags let go based on the looks of it. Plus years of the store bought AC cans with stop leak.

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icanfixall · May 23, 2016

Wowzers... How are you going to clean the rest of the system now?? :dunno

That looks a lot like the insides of your rubber hoses ... But no telling what the cans of store bought stop leak looks like either. You can install a line filter to catch what else is still rapped in the system. Desiccant is not in bags. It is free in the dryer ...

FordGuy100 · May 23, 2016

I'm thinking the same ^^^ There is bound to be a lot of crap in your system. Best to clean it out now (replacing parts is the best answer) before putting it all back together.

chris142 · May 23, 2016

That's pretty common when someone puts r134a into a system that has the old r12 dessicant. It eats the bag and dumps the dessicant. A bunch of brakcleaner and air should clean it out.

Fortunately Our condensers are flushable.

Mine was like that when I bought the truck.

Shawn MacAnanny · May 23, 2016

I just rebuilt my system, the orifice was covered in what looked like gray never seize. I cleaned the ac Evaporator and the AC condenser with acetone (thre's a small flow restirctor on condenser outlet), filling them as best i could with a small funnel, let it sit, blew them out with a high flow air line, then repeated about 3 times both directions until the rag i was blowing into was clean. I finally filled with denatured alcohol and blew that out. The flexible hoses i cleaned with the AC system cleaner NAPA reccomended, and i put in a NAPA reman AC compressor, dryer and new orifice. I have ice cold AC and its been fine for 6,000 miles so far. I also replaced the pressure switch on the dryer to go with the R134 pressures as well as all the o-rings. I vacuumed with a Harbor Freight vacuum pump for about 2 hours.

79jasper · May 23, 2016

I saw these. http://m.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/a-c-flush-kit/mastercool-a-c-flush-kit/326078_0_0/?location=
Don't know if/how well it works.

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HS108 · May 23, 2016

I'm debating that now myself. The 94 came factory with R134A

I installed a new Accumulator, and O tube. I was debating on just adding a little bit of Refridg to get the system moving again and catch more stuff on the Tube again, then open it up, replace the tube once more and charge it.

Is it the best thing to do, NO Its prob not. I will more than likely be on here 2 years from now saying *** was I thinking.

Shawn MacAnanny · May 23, 2016

The expensive part is the freon lol. Acetone and air are cheap. Compressors are pretty expensive too

HS108 · May 23, 2016

Did you use some things like Jasper posted above or did you just fill it and blow it with an air gun

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Danielle · May 23, 2016

Come down here I'll evac and do a long vacuum

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Shawn MacAnanny · May 23, 2016

I used something similar but just for the rubber lines. Acetone I just filled and blew out. There was a ton of stuff, I wish I took pics. And my ac compressor was still running not making great pressure but still chilling slightly. I used a 60ml syringe with plunger out as a funnel. Don't have any open flames near acetone when blowing out or any plastic you car about. If you want to be plastic safe denatured alcohol is your best bet.

http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/BK_7653135

HS108 · May 23, 2016

Danielle said:
Come down here I'll evac and do a long vacuum

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Thanks, but I'm in the Northern part of CT otherwise I would!!!!

I'm going to pull the parts and do it the right way. I have a buddy that is gonna Vac and recharge it for me using legit tools and gauges.

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Shawn MacAnanny · May 23, 2016

I left my evaporator and condenser installed when i flushed it. I just used tons of rags at the ends to catch everything. I did have to remove my grill to get to the line on the left side of the condenser. I took it off because theres another orifice there and i wanted to be sure it flushed everything out. I dont think i ever got the orifice fitting out though.

Ou can get a pack of AC orings for like $8 from NAPA to replace all the orings as you dissemble lines, its a good thing to do anyway. I had trouble getting the new switch to seal on my dryer, i had to double up the orings there for some reason.

HS108 · May 23, 2016

I've got a bunch of oil that has settled in the bottom of my evap. I'm worried if I don't pull it I'm not gonna get it all out with the way the tube is shaped at the bottom

I've got the bag of O rings already.

So you just poured the acetone in and blow it out from both ends pretty much

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Shawn MacAnanny · May 23, 2016

yeah, its as damaging as brake clean, so protect paint/rubber/plastic, thats why i blew into rags. Dont get it in your eyes or do in a small enclosed garage unless you want to get loopy. It actually probably best to do outside it can make a mess. Lots of acetone vaporized will be a strong smell too. I didnt use a blow gun, i actually used a 3/8" male air fitting (not the 1/4" ones) not threaded into anything and snapped it into the end of the the airline to get full flow from my 1/2" air line. its a ton of flow through there. Acetone will break down any oil. It will also ruin orings so replace them afterwards not before lol. You can use denatured alcohol too, its safer, i did the final flush with that it evaporates better too. I used a plastic syringe as a funnel, you can get them from tractory supply. I syringed in a little at first but the plungers just dont last so i used it as a make shift funnel with the plunger removed.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...s-60cc-syringe-with-catheter-tip?cm_vc=-10005

Clogged Orifice tube

HS108

Diesel Newb

icanfixall

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FordGuy100

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chris142

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Shawn MacAnanny

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79jasper

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HS108

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Shawn MacAnanny

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HS108

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Danielle

No, it's not finished

Shawn MacAnanny

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HS108

Diesel Newb

Shawn MacAnanny

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HS108

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Shawn MacAnanny

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