Fuel Tank Fun!

I took yesterday off from building our house to pull the bed off of the 94. It has fuel and or air issues. I figured the shower heads were off and that is what the issue was, as well as maybe sending units as the tanks show almost full when it runs out of fuel. I figured the vents need help as it has been very slow to take fuel in the tanks. I have been gathering parts for a little while, knowing this day would come. Two new shower heads and a Facet/Duralift pump and goodies for the install. Life is frequently little more than a comedy of errors and sometimes what we think is going on, isn't really happening at all. More on this later.

Of course the first step is a little deconstruction to get a better idea of what is going on. The bed wasn't hard to take off, not really. I had wanted to take the bumper off first, as I have a factory 6" drop hitch that I scored off of Craigs List, but the Big Boy chrome bumper was welded on. The factory wiring harness plugs for the bed were very hard to undo, but that is ok, they have been locked in place for a couple of decades.

Bed off,


Welded bumper bracket. There were three different trailer brake plugs wired in to the back, fortunately the stock wiring and 7-way plug is still intact so I cut out the extra wiring.


The tanks were a little dusty, but not too bad.




After a little clean up.




Even the cab biscuits looked good, the frame is caked with dust but no major rust issues on it or the body.


Even the fuel line labels are intact.



Here is what I discovered. Both tanks were full, the rear tank was completely full, above the sending unit port. The front tank is just below the port. Neither shower head is in place and A day before running out of fuel I pulled 5 gallons from the rear tank for my tractor, yet that tank was completely full. I had noticed before that the gauges didn't seem to correspond to perceived tank level, and the reason it was hard to put fuel in the tanks is because they were already full! I need a new switching valve for starters, and since I do not want to have to this job again in my lifetime, I am going to replace the sending units and all rubber hoses on the fuel lines. I had considered the 38 gallon tank, and may still, but these tanks look perfect.

My shopping list...I need help on finding the best deals out there.

1. New switching valve, the original is a e9tb-9f271-aa and I am hoping someone has found this for way less than Ford wants for one. I don't really want to hack into the stock wiring, but to save a couple hundred bucks I will.
2. Sending units for both tanks, I do not know the part numbers, but I know there are plenty of these on Amazon, I just need the correct part numbers.
3. Anything you can think of that I am missing. If someone has found the 38 gallon sending unit for a decent price I may go ahead and put it in.

Thanks for joining in on my fun.

Sounds like your fsv is pulling from the front and returning to the back tank. Interesting. I've not seen that connector on the sending unit before. That must be an OBS thing. The brick nose and earlier only use 2 pins. Those almost look like gas sending units.

As for the switching valve, they can be had for around 350$ for the ford specific one. It's made by Pollack. You can pick up a generic replacement much cheaper (Like $75 or less if memory serves) but it will not have the ford connectors for the lines or the wires. The wire harness will be weatherpack and the lines will be hose barb. If you look in my build thread I show it with what I believe is the correct wiring for it.

Check your floats. There may not be anything wrong with the sending units themselves. You can check the resistance to see if it changes as the float arm moves. Lots of things can cause a wonky gauge. I wouldn't buy senders until you are sure that's the problem. Shower heads can be had for about $40 each or do the fuel rated hose mod.

Good luck.

Thanks, I already have the showerheads and I did find that Pollack makes the switching valve, and that the generic ones is the same except for the connectors. I am reading your thread now.

I discussed this project with the Ways and Means Committee yesterday, she decided it would be best to replace as much of what we can with new while we have it all torn apart. I am old and decrepit and don't want to do it again. I am not really in favor of paying the Ford price, so I may just get the generic one.

I did find a couple sending units that Amazon shows to be correct, however I never trust Amazon when it comes to fitment. It shows PS19 and 20 for the mid tank, PS21 for the rear tank.

Glad you have a generous "ways and means committee".

Seriously though, check the senders out before you replace them. It would suck to change them and it not solve your problem.

Since in for penny....and doing full pound...no loss to take apart fsv....likely showerhead or related crappolla in there cauzing issues. Then you can reassemble and test accordingly...

Looks in real good condition overall.

I have seen those connectors on fuel semders....aaarrrggghhhh...mid run changes...ty Ford....NOT.

means and way comittee...thats what they call those now is it....will keep in mind for when I may find replacement for hagus.

JM7.3CW

Hagus! I love it, I could not get away with that even in jest, and she is of Scottish descent too.

I am pretty sure the fuel senders are ok, but since I have it open they are not that expensive.

Al, I may go to the 38 gallon tank since I have to drop both of these to get the disintegrated shower heads out, but that is the only crud I see in the tanks, they are very clean with no sludge or dirt. I could have sworn I saw where someone found a cheaper sending unit for it than the $400 dollar one. I can't find it now, perhaps it is early onset of Alzheimers.

I just got both tanks drained, about to go drop them after the PB has a chance to work.

On an unrelated note, I don't think exhaust is stock, at least 3/4's of it don't look stock. I cannot imagine Ford welding up the U that goes over the axle.


This is the transition from the downpipe (under the truck) to t5he rest of the exhaust.


The rest of the pipe has a 3.5" O.D.


The actual muffler, no markings other than "inlet" and only one of the stock hangers is in use, not this one though.

That is not factory ford as far as I know. I have a complete Y to tail exhaust laying out back albeit from an NA truck. It says ford on the muffler and it's a flat oval thing.

I spent the afternoon cleaning the tanks and pulling the fuel selector out. I would like to find the engineer who designed this fuel system and punch him in the face. There is no reason to put that selector where they did, a foot forward would have made so much more sense. It would be next to impossible to change the selector out without dropping the front tank. I really dislike moronic engineering. Ok, rant off.

I thought I was going to get lucky and not have to pull the front tank, I could reach the leftover showerhead pieces and a turkey baster got the rest. The dang tanks look beautiful, which I did not expect. Of course in order to get to the fuel selector I still had to drop the front tank. It is just as well, the rubber portion of the fuel lines is looking rough so I am going to replace all them.

I am not going to change the sending units, they work beautifully, full range with no bumps, floats are intact and no corrosion. I did call the stealership to price a new fuel tank selector, $420 bucks! I am getting the generic one from Napa for $74 and do the wiring. I am also going to move the thing up towards the front about a foot, like it should have been. Just about every one of the little plastic clips broke so it looks like I will be using the good clamps on all of the connections.

I did exactly what you are talking about. If you notice mine is now in a nice open easily accessible spot.

The only problem is that the frame rail gets real crowded between the selector and the front tank because you have to put those new lines somewhere.

Fwiw
Oldbull8 has a tech 101 for fsv, might just save ya the $80
If you ever find the fuel system engineer let me know " I'll hold hom while you beat him silly"

Hey...thinkin that looks lot like a banks powerpack exhaust...or similar.

38 gal would be nice...

Look at fuel vent mods too...takes like a 3/4" hose as a vent all way up to filler inlet. Remove the insides of filler neck...few threqds here on it...maybe one in tech section...dunno still gor my own to do.

laserjock said:

I did exactly what you are talking about. If you notice mine is now in a nice open easily accessible spot.

The only problem is that the frame rail gets real crowded between the selector and the front tank because you have to put those new lines somewhere.

Click to expand...

I found it, but all of the photos are coming up as a bad link, it looks like it should be page 22?

Clb said:

Fwiw
Oldbull8 has a tech 101 for fsv, might just save ya the $80
If you ever find the fuel system engineer let me know " I'll hold hom while you beat him silly"

Click to expand...

I don't mind the new one, I am saving the old one to tinker with. I have been rebuilding things since the early 70's, so this shouldn't be too hard. It will end up as a spare. I took enough engineering classes way back when to know when something is done wrong, this is done wrong. To add to the Ford "better idea" crap, the skid plate under the front tank has one bolt that takes some crazy tool combinations to get to. They could have so easily turned that bracket around, kept the rigidity and allowed plenty of room to get it off.

riotwarrior said:

Hey...thinkin that looks lot like a banks powerpack exhaust...or similar.

38 gal would be nice...

Look at fuel vent mods too...takes like a 3/4" hose as a vent all way up to filler inlet. Remove the insides of filler neck...few threqds here on it...maybe one in tech section...dunno still gor my own to do.

Click to expand...

I have looked at the fuel vent mod, seems simple enough, fortunately both plastic inner vent pieces in the filler neck are intact. I do remember when I brought the truck home, it filled perfectly fine. I am going to take the inner plastic vent out and inspect it carefully. I am surprised at how relatively clean the undercarriage is and how spotless the insides of the tanks are. Only one bolt has given me trouble, and it was one of the bed bolts spinning. I will have to address that soon, once the tanks are done and the Duralift installed.

Huh.

Here's the valve location.



Had to extend the pig tail for the valve.



Wiring diagrams for my year.


Here is the plug for the weather pack.



Hope that helps.

Looks like photobucket is having an issue. Hopefully it works itself out.

That's what I was getting. I have been using photo bucket since about 2001, rarely has there been an issue that didn't get resolved quickly.