94 F250 7.3 Sitting for 15 years

Just got it home!!!!! 1994 F250 with the IDI turbo, I'm very new to this and the father in law gave it to me..

Was parked due to a cracked fuel line, well he tore the front end off, fender grill headlights etc.... and was going to replace the line and the motor mounts, everything looks sealed up and all parts are sitting there, Looks like only the washer fluid can is toast..

WHERE DO I START? i was going to put it all together and start over.. drain fuel, I got a set of batts, figured id least try with the broke line to confirm it is broke, He has a brand new one in the cab.

Im new here but been lurking for a month as i been waiting to go pick it up 3 hrs away.. Ill post pics soon as i get some..THANX in advance!!

Todd

what fuel line, and why was the front clip removed? can you post some pictures? also fill in your signature with your truck info.

With the front clip all removed, now is the easier time to get at the engine.

Get a return line kit. Dipaco kit or one from typ4 or Conestogadiesel

Pull all the glow plugs. Inspect there condition, they should ohm out at 2-3 ohms. If there not Motorcraft/Beru, replace them.

Pull all the injectors, look for a lot of carbon on the nozzles. the return line kit has new copper washers.

Drain oil and replace with new, Synthetic or Dino. Summer use 15W40.

If the radiator is still on, drain the block and Rad, refill with FleetGard, takes 4 gallon concentrate and 4 gallons of distilled water.

After all that is done. You can try and start it. Run for a few seconds even with Rad off it, look for fuel leaks.

Don't forget to look for funky wiring, often the glowplug harness will dissipate so give everything electrical give a good once over before starting. Make sure and check the condition of the oil you drain from the engine, will give you clues to the condition of the engine. Sounds like you got your work cut out for you, best of luck and welcome to the forum!

Welcome to the forum. If you can explain more what "cracked fuel line" you are posting about this forum can help with repairs. Just know anything you ask here has been asked many times before. Do not feel like you are asking stupid or silly questions either. At one time we were all in your shoes not sure of what this new engine is all about. I'm wondering why the front end was removed for a cracked fuel line. Nothing I know of requires removing front end sheet metal to repair but please explain more.

A 94 with the IDI, good score! Can you look at the door tag and tell me date of manufacture? I am interested in how late in 94 they were still putting IDI's in, and welcome to the forum.

04/94. Thanx I'll get to updating all my profile info tonight on the laptop. Phone won't let me.

Here's the story that he told me.

I'm not sure what line cracked as of yet, he decided to to tear the whole front clip off thinking he had bad motor mounts, he's not mechanical at all. I get to tackle his 6.0 next. FML. But this am I got the truck together so I can start from scratch. I work at a underground mine as a lube truck driver here in NV. So this thing isn't like the Mercedes I deal with mostly haha. But I got it completely together - batteries, 6.0 batts on the charger as we speak. Haha.

On top of the blower motor is a little actuator that appears to have a vacuum line on it. Well line is broke. Where did it go, I bought a chiltons this am but cannot find. Shows it dropping off by the blower and that's it. Other then that. It's all in one piece!!!! Oil looks great ain't tackled the fuel yet. New filter ready to go in ASAP. So I'll be back. Had to take a little break.

There is a loom with wiring in it on top of the HVAC box that ends right about at the blower motor. That line is notorious for dry rotting and it routes through that split loom. It's most likely in good shape inside the loom. Get you some small diameter vacuum hose and slip it over the good part of the line. I silicone mine in with clear adhesive.

Thank you so much. Got it!!!

Now map sensor vacuum I can not find a spot on the manifold.

Oh and the broken Fuel line is fixed, was the line pass front side broke at the motor, no way in hell a motor mount can cause that ha. Man. So I'm down to clean out fuel , oil that vacuum line and batteries I think.

whats a MAP sensor?

Did they put those on some IDI's with auto transmissions?

Otherwise, no MAP sensor on the IDI.

I spose something to do with trans I've read. I think it's ok no line hooked.

So next is injectors and glow plugs. I did get the motor to turn!!! Yay.

I got all the lines loose so I can bleed everything.

I turned over fine seems all works so that's a plus. Didn't try and start it really as I no the fuel is done. So here we go glow plugs and injectors time.

That vacuum line going into the harness supplies vacuum to the ac heater doors in the cab. Use an exacto knife and be careful cutting back the harness wrap till you find good vacuum line. Do a good job protecting it with plenty of electrical tape as if it was owm material. Mine has broken several times. No big deal really.

Ok. So I got it turning over, the fuel is ok I believe now.

So it won't fire and I haven't cleaned injectors or GP's. But with key on the GP relay clicks for some time. I guess I pull em out and go from there. I was hoping to have her purring today.

GP relay should click for awhile after the wait to start light goes out. It's the normal after-glow. Yank the fuel filter and fill the outside section of it (I think?) with ATF. May give it a second long shot of starting fluid intuitive the air filter or the manifold from about a foot away. The ATF will help clean the injectors if you can get it to them. Glow plugs should be replaced anyway (one of those things in the list for a new to you truck) with Motorcraft/Beru ZD9's only. If one or more plugs don't want to come out, just take your time and use lots of PB Blaster. Don't want any silken tips to break off in there!